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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 13, 2017 - 09:21am PT
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The persistent Cali legend concerning Royal and Tahquitz. One, that the Open Book was the first 5.9 and two that the first true free climbs were done there. Hardly likely on both counts...it's a big world out there and, in regards to climbing, the States appeared fairly late on the scene.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Sep 13, 2017 - 09:29am PT
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Jim,
I have no doubt that the Cali myths may be just that, but my comments refer to concepts not accomplishments.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Sep 13, 2017 - 09:32am PT
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What is special about the one I posted is the frame/rectangle around the tree. The Forrest Titons size 1 to 5 were made of steel, that is the reason for which the logo is cast and not stamped, as for the aluminum samples (sizes 6 to 10, and later 6 to 17)
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Sep 13, 2017 - 10:40am PT
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Ah, simple as that... and then there must be relatively few 1-5 around, but more of the larger sizes...
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Sep 14, 2017 - 07:43am PT
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Hi Marty.
That's a description even Marlow can understand. :o)
Thanks!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Sep 14, 2017 - 09:29am PT
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The Forrest Chimney Chocks do not have any advantage over the Titons of the same size.
They only predate the Titon #11 to #17 that hit the market quickly after the Chimney Chocks.
Chimney Chocks, 1976, Titons #11 to #17, 1977.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Sep 14, 2017 - 08:36pm PT
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Stephane - Thanks for clarification on the Chimney Chocks being made before the longer Titons were made.
..
I noticed a mistake with the Titons listing so I reedited the listing. Forrest didnt have a uncolored set #1-10 in 1974. Of course the Titons were finished and uncolored before he anodized them, so some of them with the tree logo may have gone out to climbers for testing etc still being uncolored. I have a #10 with fm logo and a #10 with a tree logo which makes sense since the #10 was never colored.
The key Titon to find is a #9 uncolored with a tree logo of the set two style, having the single one hole sling slot design. In 1977 the Titons #9 and 10 design was changed to having lightening holes but the #6-8 sizes remained the same as the 1974 colored set, just they were no longer colored. #9 in the 1974 colored set was always colored and #10 was uncolored. So #9 uncolored with single sling slot and tree logo is a prize Titon to have.
Also note the 1974 Titons #1-5 were made of Stainless Steel, and the 1977 Titons #1-5 are made of Cadmium plated steel.
It will be cool if other sizes of the 1973 Titons (possible prototypes) that have the fm logo surface. So far there is proof of the #9 and #10 sizes both uncolored.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Sep 14, 2017 - 11:08pm PT
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Used four #4 Titons to hang the Greenpeace banner on Sears Tower - worked like a charm...
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ClimbingOn
Trad climber
NY
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Sep 15, 2017 - 03:06pm PT
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I believe these stoppers and hook to be of European origin. No identifying markings can be found. Thoughts?
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Sep 15, 2017 - 11:48pm PT
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John Brailsford MOAC Original Chock, England ;-)
The hook is probabliy a Clog.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Sep 16, 2017 - 10:45am PT
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Healyje - I didn't know that you were a Green Peace protestor.......very cool. And you were the banner hanging guy....very very cool!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Sep 17, 2017 - 10:12am PT
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I dug around In my gear doubles box and was totally surprised to find a Forrest Titon #9 uncolored with a tree logo. This Titon does not show up in any of the Forrest catalog listings. This shows that Forrest let out a few samples of his 1974 colored set being uncolored.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Sep 20, 2017 - 05:19pm PT
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Healyje - I didn't know that you were a Green Peace protestor.......very cool. And you were the banner hanging guy....very very cool!
Thanks. Yeah, the Sears and Tokyo Towers of mine and my partner Doug Allen's Eiffel Tower climb pretty much kicked-off the environmental banner hanging thing.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Wild Country was the importer / distibutor for Boreal in UK, So I suspect that these cimbing boots are Fire.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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It looks like Fire, yes, but the black mark says Wild Country, maybe the same or a similar shoe produced by Boreal for Wild Country.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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I cant remember a pair of fires that ever had that black 'pipping' lining/re-enforceing the lace opening.
but i knew many folks who would customize, re-use tags .
nice art work, lol !
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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It looks like Fire, yes, but the black mark says Wild Country, maybe the same or a similar shoe produced by Boreal for Wild Country. When Simond was the importer for Wild Country in France, the Friends were stamped SIMOND.
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AE
climber
Boulder, CO
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As a sidebar to these many varied designs, I'd love to read about anyone who actually used, and was successfully caught by, some of the most bizarre, obtuse, curious, and peculiar pieces of protection. Way too many ex: the rubber treaded Trangos and inscrutable polygonal rotating, sliding wedge affairs look so frightening, unstable, and impractical as to be useful only as collectibles. Carabiners were originally used by firemen way before climbers discovered them, so large odd ones are not unique, just not what we are used to seeing.
MOAC was one of my first, and favorite nuts, and carried it on 1" sling big enough to go around my neck, a method that seems blatantly deadly now. I carried the one-hole Troll nuts two or three to a single over-the-shoulder runner for years, and rappelled off one that we had to bash into a shallow groove, spit on, and hope it froze in before committing to it. Always wondered if I'd find it at the base in the summer. Titons 4 and 5 also could be carried that way, after I stopped using them on the rack; the narrow head could slot into the back of right angled cracks where otherwise much smaller insecure nuts had to be used.
I also had a habit of falling on the first placement of each new item; #2 Friend, 50 footer, no problem; #1 RP, 8 footer, just fine; 6 footer onto a blind Rock N'Roller placement, also caught me; small TCU on Crankenstein at Vedauwoo, popped right out into my face with George Hurley's 1/4" bolt keeping me off the ground. Never fell on it, but placed a Dolt spoon piton several times, nearly impossible to remove due to the reverse flair shape, but it still looks pristine, a little CroMo jewel. Dave Rearick osage orange nut pulled out of Umph Slot is another display-only item. An early mentor had one of those coathanger ice screws catch his team on a slope in the Alps, after one or two more modern tubular screws failed. Whew.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Set one: The Forrest manufacture stamp is just "fm" and no tree outline. c.1973. Stephane shows he has #9 and 10, and further looking at my Titons I also have this in size #9 and 10. So it will be interesting if anybody else has any other sizes with just the "fm" logo.
Let us know!