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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 23, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
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Little johnny boy...what routes do I want retrobolted?
I was climbing hard trad r/x routes 12 years before you started climbing, I have no desire to retrobolt anyone routes.
I'm not stuck in the past, climbing is going to evolve. These kids are doing some wild climbing and having fun doing it. Get over yourself.
Thanks Patrick and John...I just consider the source.
Climbing is fun, period. My wife and kids always came first and climbing was something that I enjoyed. Most of all the wonderful folks I have met in the 42 years of climbing has been the gold at the end of the rainbow.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 23, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
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Well sh#t, 'WE' would include most of the folks I climb with.
Good for you Bob, staying after it. It is a personal decision to change your scope of establishing routes to include others that may follow.
I climb for myself and team. Sometimes you got to pay to play.
Like it or not, there are plenty of new kids who were brought up at the heels of the pioneers many of you have chastised on this thread.
That's why I love drilling 1/4", keeps the riff raff away from my 'at my limit moderates'
Bwhahahah!!
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Sep 23, 2013 - 01:24pm PT
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That's why I love drilling 1/4", keeps the riff raff away from my 'at my limit moderates'
Bwhahahah!!
So you are saying you purposely put in sub-standard gear (1/4" bolts) in hopes that it will pull?
You must be proud, and thanks, that really nails down the mentality of the pro-museum crowd for me.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 23, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
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Personally, I don't climb because it's dangerous, I climb because I enjoy it
If it is not dangerous, then I probably don't enjoy it... I mean how much fun can 5.7 be unless you are 80 feet out and sketching.
Just say "no" to retrobolts.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 23, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
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Russ...I mean how much fun can 5.7 be unless you are 80 feet out and sketching.
Very bold coming from a 5.12 climber. :-)
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 23, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
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Bob, you flatter me. I'm not kidding about the 5.7 these days!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 23, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
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Compton-
Don't be scared, nobody repeats the museum climbs.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Sep 23, 2013 - 01:46pm PT
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Fair enough, and in 40 years you can have your own porch and keep kids off your lawn with rusted out, crappy bolts.
Keep that low-standard flame alive, live the run-out 5.10 slab dream bra!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 23, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
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Thankfully, retrobolting spawn will take care of that once they deem the route worthy in the next 20 years, right?
Or they won't, because it is much easier to repeat the milk runs.
Which has been the case for the last 40 years.
Pipe dream Compton.
I like the 1" button heads on lead, with a homemade Stainless Steel hanger.
Oh the horror!
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 23, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
Sep 23, 2013 - 10:28am PT
"Russ...I mean how much fun can 5.7 be unless you are 80 feet out and sketching.
Very bold coming from a 5.12 climber. :-)"
Pretty funny coming from Bolting Bob
Compton nobody is arguing against replacing rusted out 40 year old bolts
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surfstar
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Sep 23, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
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Newer and/or many bolts would have greatly detracted from my experience on this remote 5.8 slab.
Dang 'mericans not appreciating museums anymore.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 23, 2013 - 02:26pm PT
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"Industry standards" also say you need to replace your rope every four years or so. Snort guffaw...
Don't let the secret out, Ron. I use excuses like that to convince my wife that our budget requires frequent updating of my rack (Paul Souza will question whether my rack, in fact, resembles one from this century, but ignore him), ropes and shoes.
John
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 23, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
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Johnkelly wrote: Pretty funny coming from Bolting Bob
Ouch..that really hurts.
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Joshua Johnson
Boulder climber
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Sep 23, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
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New routes are works of art (for some, not all) to the FA party.
Adding a new nose to the Mona Lisa would be frowned upon for the same reasons retro bolting someones route would be frowned upon.
The world is a huge canvas of rock.
If you don't like my paintings that's fine, but it gives you no right to paint over them.
Go create your own masterpiece according to your own artistic vision.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 23, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
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Mt 10910 with all of the unclimbed rock out there every climber does have the chance to determine his acceptable level of risk. If every runout were to get retrobolted that chance would be lost. It simple if a route is to scary for you go do a route that isn't or put in your own routes.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Sep 23, 2013 - 06:06pm PT
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^^^^^ I'm in full agreement, JJ.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 23, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
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Joe wrote: No one is suggesting everything get retro'd. Please stop pretending that we are, and try to keep the debate rational, logical and based in reality.
He can't, he rather "cry wolf" than realized that he doesn't own sh#t on public lands. Much more dramatic and emotional.
Funny but 99.8 percent of the climbing community could care less about John Kelly or his routes.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Sep 23, 2013 - 06:33pm PT
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...according to your logic if someone makes a sand castle on a beach, they now own the beach and others should go find a different beach to make sand castles on or accept the first beaches sand castle ascetic (sp).
Man, you are such an extremist! Trying to throw another "logic" bomb in your war of terror...
Of course, any self-respecting, civilized beach goer would respect the aesthetic of the silica architect and move a little further down the beach. Your analogy works quite well in this thread, and it goes along way to demonstrate just how hollow your alarmist arguments really are.
Just move your tea party a little further along the base, and build your own too, too, over-safe route somewhere else. Someone else was here first.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 23, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
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Hahaha there's always shelf road for the sacless
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