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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 20, 2011 - 03:16am PT
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Well, since we're on the "Rick" subject, I may as well re-tell a story involving the "Man"...
On more than one instance when I was up on the hill with friends, this particular time below "Go With The Flow," Rick would show up. He sat quietly behind us while he shoed up then stepped forward when there was a pause in our activity on the route. Rick gently grabbed the two strands of rope hanging from the TR anchors, met eyes with one of us, handed them off to the same, out of the way of the climb, and would begin his preclimb ritual. Leaning his head back, looking up at the line above, he would shake his long, kinky, full mane of hair back, methodically dipping his hands back and forth until fully white with chalk, and absorb a half minute or so more of Scorpions, "Here I am, rock you like a hurricane!" frying out of his headphones, so loud that even I could hear the words clearly, eight feet away! He then started his way up the face, hesitating briefly at the crux twenty feet up, then top out, down climb, gather his stuff and disappear back up to the road.
I first witnessed Rick do this on IHMT and also on Werner's Wish and Driving South.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 20, 2011 - 06:22am PT
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classic piggot. one of a kind. the best.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 12:21pm PT
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I like this subject.
The man in black. Rick always seemed to be dressed in black, gotta say, it lent to his aura.
Rick was (and I'm sure still is, no matter what he's currently into) one intense dude. Way fun, as long as you didn't mind having someone only say a few words to you the entire day. A man of few words in my experience, but that just made his words more meaningful.
Bedford and I did a fair amount of climbing with Rick in the Owens River Gorge. I remember one day we were doing the Enterprise and Rick went first. He completely skipped all the bolts under the roof (can you say guaranteed groundfall off the crux) because he didn't want to be bothered stopping to clip. Donny and I were like..., dude!! All Rick had to say was, "If you fall off there, you deserve whatever happens to you." Right. Needless to say Donny and I still clipped everything in sight when we went. I heard an eye-witness story recently about Rick grounding on an Undertow lead, and also heard the eye-witness story of the PhD grounder. Seems to show a go-for-it mindset, eh?
Rick was living in Truckee around the time Donny and I were doing ORG routes with him and was also doing a lot at Cave Rock. When I last saw him he had led every route there but one. I later heard that he had done his last remaining route.
Bad-ass dude. Cool dude.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 01:07pm PT
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ok, so I really like this subject. Hopefully we're not boring the current crop of young guns to tears with our BITD old fart stories...
Ron, where was the "obsession" glue on? I seem to recall hearing that it was Ricks problem left of the Cave gig, the "Anti-social". Is there some correlation? Regardless, I thought the Anti-social was super good. I think it goes by another name also? Given Donny's story about how it came to be called the Anti-social it has to be that name for me. Donny hasn't posted for some time, or I'd let him tell the story since he was there. Maybe I'll wait and see if Donny chimes in, otherwise I'll try to relate it best I can. Classic Piggot.
Interesting how certain people stand out for various reasons. Every generation has them, and will continue to. Rick was certainly one of them from my generation - whatever/whenever that was (sigh). The stuff stories end up being told about forever by those who were lucky enough to be there. I think I see the current Woodson gen producing it's own Piggot, similar in some ways, time will tell the story. (sticks and stones, pins and needles will not extract a name from me - ha.)
More Piggot stories please.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Apr 20, 2011 - 02:50pm PT
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boring us! hells no- keep the stories coming!
and Gary, I couldn't talk anyone else into doing it, but I gave Atom Ant a quick lap and it was fun, though could use more ascents/cleaning.
and, yes, I believe Mark will be at Woodson this afternoon looking for that tips crack, and we are already forming a trail crew! : )
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 04:01pm PT
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Make sure a really, really good trail is cut. If bvb is planning to look for that mythical tips seam the next time he's in the area, and the approach is pure manzanita, and it's late May hot, and he doesn't remember the location... Well, I damn near died just going down to and up from StarSlab, er StarTwinkle, StarGem?, or whatever that stupid thing is called, in cool weather... If we let bvb try it in hot weather with the manzanita still in place (ala, approaching THE Corner) we'll have to send a crew later to collect the bones.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Apr 20, 2011 - 04:48pm PT
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Yep, Daves travesty was left of cave climb. A big splotch of dried glue was left on the rock for years after that hold was removed, it may have weathered off by now.
Both Greg and I told Dave that he needed to remove the glue mess he left on the rock, but as you can imagine, responsibility was not one of the young mans strong suits. Not long after that, Dave left for greener pastures, ie: the anything-goes, see and be seen fishbowl type sport climbing areas that better suited his ambitions.
On Anti Social, I dont know. The line that Dave glued up was widely considered a legit project in its natural state, albeit a desperate one, so obsession and anti social may be the same line.
Dave could have probably climbed the route without the glue-job had he applied himself and put the time in. Instead he earned himself infamy with a rash, hasty and ill conceived act.
If you want it bad, you will get it bad.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 20, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
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little bit more recollection on that tips crack. it's in a little closed corridor formed by three boulders. perfectly flat landing. the opening to the corridor faces south, towards the highway. the crack is in the back of the corridor on the left side. it is a bit overhanging and leans to the left.
might take some hunting and pecking to find it, but believe me you'll know it when you see it.
wish i had a photo...
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 04:58pm PT
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Regardless, I thought the Anti-social was super good.
Better clarify that. Super good without the glue hold. As the Anti-social, not as the travesty. Don't remember if I saw the post removal spot or not, but I'm sure Donny would have pointed it out to me.
Edit: They have to be the same problem. One is legit, one isn't. Pick one.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 06:37pm PT
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"pecking"
Really?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Apr 21, 2011 - 03:51am PT
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sure, i have always called plowing through brush so stiff it tears flesh from the bone "pecking"
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Apr 22, 2011 - 10:36pm PT
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Bump for the weekend! Post up what ya'll are doing on the hill to keep this thread alive
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Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
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Apr 23, 2011 - 03:42am PT
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Headed up the hill after class this afternoon with Lauren and Doug. We met Adam and Stephen up at Robbin's. Adam led it, pretty cool for a first trad lead (even if it involves only one piece of gear). We ran a few laps to warm up.
I threw a rope up on Lie Detector as I had never gotten it before. Having worked it previously with little luck and not really feeling on my game recently, I wasn't feeling too confident. Doug ran a quick lap before I got on; he made it look pretty trivial, so I had hope. That quickly faded when I got on and quickly failed. I worked it a bit and pulled most of the moves, but I definitely wasn't feeling it. In all honesty, I was kind of being a bitch, complaining about my skin, conditions, etc. Doug wasn't having it; he psyched me up, ran another lap, then I hopped on and sent. Definitely surprised myself, I was psyched. Doug was too, so he ran another lap. After round three, he said he was finally warmed up.
We went up to Jaws next, Lauren's current project. She almost sent first go, but kind of lost psyche after that (it was getting cold and foggy). She was bummed, but I thought it was pretty impressive for someone with a broken talus. We ran around, did Baby Robbins, corn flake, then finished the day down at TV screen. All in all, a pretty awesome day up on the hill (especially considering both Doug and I had midterms this morning). Pictures to come.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 23, 2011 - 04:20am PT
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if anyone goes looking for that tips crack this weekend, and finds it, for chrissake, take pics of it.
i'll be in san diego for four days over memorial day. i'm like a 5.9 climber right now but i'd love to hack around, maybe do some easy slabs, and give my camera a good workout. who's gonna be around?
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Apr 23, 2011 - 09:40am PT
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I'll be your 5.9 partner Bob.
I'm getting pretty close 5.8c/d
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Captain...or Skully
climber
My ready room
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Apr 23, 2011 - 09:47am PT
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Haha! 5.8c/d. That's Gold, right there. Gold.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Apr 23, 2011 - 10:18am PT
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OT But, way to send "High Plains Drifter" Mark K.!
Way too cool!
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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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Apr 23, 2011 - 12:10pm PT
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bvb,
I might be able to drive out there and hike around with you sometime
Memorial day weekend. I cannot really climb, but can hike a little,
Post surgery.
I have a tripod, a camera with a descent zoom, and have not seen
Many of these climbs you mention, nor have even laid eye's on
Undertow, and other fabled gems.
Feel free to fire me an email.
And remember bvb, I pack a mean bowl so be ready to get baked good!
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Apr 23, 2011 - 10:09pm PT
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Hey bob, what you need is an old fat guy to climb with, somebody so pathetic he makes you look good. That would be me. Give me a call when you get in town and Ill meet you on the hill. I am also willing to rent floorspace in my house at a reasonable rate if you have nowhere to stay.
Im there for ya, buddy.
Ill be around the whole weekend, so give me a call.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 24, 2011 - 01:18am PT
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we're on ron. climbing with you has always made me look sw0le, even 30 years ago. some things never change.
PM me your digits...cell phone died and I lost my directory. got a new cell today...LG's version of the iphone. f*#king thing is a cray. w00t w00t!
so anybody find that thin crack yet?? DON'T make me come out there and KICK your ASSES!11!11!
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