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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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Pretty nice record keeping Gypsy.
I have a postcard a friend sent me from Nepal in 1969. He's no longer here on Earth.
I don't like it, but I gues things happen that way.
Presented with DMT's menu above, rather than giving this day to myself some daily bread, I'd take the pecan pie in a flash.
In your rather extended address list MFM, I must admit that I've only ever gone to Will Rogers and Bob Dylan's houses (the ones in California).
Neither Will nor Bob could surf worth a shit!!, but they sure were funny and they sure told the truth and I seemed to know what they were talking about
I do know where Lenny Bruce lived (8825 Hollywood Blvd. - not far from Gower) and died. Record producer Phil Spector, a friend of Bruce's, bought the negatives of the photographs to keep them from the press.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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South America, Chile and Argentina—Patagonia,
Torre Egger and Innominata Climbs And Expeditions
Torre Egger and Innominata. Our expedition consisted of Dr. Daniel Reid, Rick Sylvester, Americans, Rafael Juárez, Argentine, Eric Jones, Tut Braithwaite, Martin Boysen, Mick Coffey, Keith Lewis, Don Whillans and me, British.
For more than two months, from the first days of December into February, we threw everything we had at a vertical pillar which is topped by a mushroom of ice.
Torre Egger, named after Toni Egger, the Austrian who disappeared on Cerro Torre, on first acquaintance is rather diminutive compared to its higher neighbor, Cerro Torre.
This is a false impression for although its summit is 800 feet lower than Cerro Torre, the climbing starts 1000 feet lower. We were surprised when we had run out of 5000 feet of fixed rope how much of the climb was still left.
We had our customary fair share of the indescribably bad Patagonian weather, but ironically it was not the bad weather but the good that stopped us from reaching the top.
A spell of weather lasting eventually for 20 days was given us, but our team at that stage was weak. Jones had torn a knee ligament; Whillans had gone home; I had shingles; and Juárez had died with a companion on Cerro Adela. This left Reid, Sylvester, Boysen and Braithwaite with Coffey to back them up, still a strong team but reduced in size.
The weather was good and progress was made, but it went slowly for the walls of Torre Egger are very steep and don’t lend themselves to fast progress. The mushroom was collapsing and Torre Egger was turned into a murder place.
We saw pieces the size of houses slide off and a small piece—no larger than a tennis ball—broke Braithwaite’s arm. A gigantic icicle, 100 feet long and of many tons, loomed above the route.
The high point that Reid reached was just below its tip but everyone else agreed that continuing was unjustified. Two days later I had recovered sufficiently to join the team and we changed our objective to the unclimbed Innominata.
After 3000 feet of scree and slabs, we reached the bottom and had a comfortable bivouac. At six the next morning we started to climb the steep slabs leading to the col between the Innominata and the Aguja St. Exupéry.
These were pleasant and often difficult but above were no mushrooms or icicles. Above the col the headwall reared steeper. Reid nailed it, followed by Boysen and me, while Sylvester brought up Braithwaite with his fractured arm.
We had thought that we would reach the summit that night and had no bivi gear but by seven P.M. Reid came to a vertical crack that looked as if it needed bongs.
We had none and so Boysen climbed it free at what he thought to be good Welsh extreme standard and in boots. He climbed it with one boot and one hand in the crack with his other limbs lashing along the edge of the crack.
He thought he was off a few times before he reached the top of the crack and when he did, he was so exhausted that he could not belay for five minutes. We all followed, but still there was one pitch left.
Reid went up again nailing and reached the summit as darkness arrived. Fortunately sixty feet below the top was a ledge covered with large boulders. Here we bivouacked without food and bivi gear.
Cannily Sylvester and Braithwaite had duvets in the bottoms of their rucksacs. I had an anorak, but Reid and Boysen had only shirts on and spent a cold night dancing together beneath the southern stars with the wind starting a storm.
We thought we were in trouble but it held back and as the false dawn broke, Braithwaite, Sylvester and I went to the summit, took a few photos, left a badge of Rafael Juárez’s Cordoba Alpine Club and started our retreat.
Five hours later we were back on the glacier at our Advance Base Camp. Some of us waited for another six weeks to see if colder weather would bring a fresh spell of good days, but this was not to be.
Leo Dickinson, Alpine Climbing Group
1974
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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St. Don Boxco presents
Old Gear that we tried to take seriously.Bit of a rarity this as not many were made and very few have survived. As the name implies,they were the brainchild of Don Whillans who had created a rough, wooden version whilst on an expedition to Patagonia in the 60's. A second version was created from angle iron and orange rucksack canvas with the resultant weight penalty.
The finished article came from a collaboration between Whillans and Mike Parsons of Karrimor who used their pack frame technology to fabricate the frame and a version of rucksack canvas for the covering and even though an early prototype blew away whilst being tested in the Cairngorms, several of the box tents found their way to the slopes of Everest and Annapurna in the 1970's.
This particular tent was given to Mick Tighe by Hugh McNicol who ran a company called Mountain Technology in Glencoe in the 1980's & 90's. Hugh had acquired it on one of his Himalayan trips.
SMHC/Scottish Mtn. Heritage Collection
http://www.smhc.co.uk/
Support comes from the Heritage Lottery Fund.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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In the pub.
In the coffee place next door.
MMFM/Mariposa Midnight From Mariposa.
A little light hangin' music, maestro!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Gnome, nice hangin' with you...respect for one-hand pulls out of the thin air.
It could have been a better shot if you had some mountain boots, though, not those dainties.
So HTFU so you can show us it's possible. :0)
Tom Dooley Tom Dooley
He was so old school-y.
He was too unruly
And was tried and hung duly
According to law.
Gremmie was on the wrong beach
Locals thought this was a breach
And so it was left up to each
A lesson this punk for to teach
And he hangs there still.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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F. oops, did I ever imply that I was he? a swinging footloose,
One handed, caught in motion as the crux grab, was excellently caught by an unknown and un credited photographer.?
It is not me in the pictures, I did not snap them,
but those climbs, are what I was all about !
And they are great pics,I found on the Internet !
As was the fashion of the day,
I cllimbed them both in better and better style, each time using less and
Less gear until both fell to third class ascents.
if an opportunity to climb at SkyTop is ever extended,
Go! it is the home that weened many a great climber.
I feel. the same way about the pictures,
They are of the place I spent the best years ofmy life,
My extended childhood!
In the hood of Fritz and Hans,
Where some of jstan's best(still sandbags 30+ years later) call home,
The one, the only and still sacred to climbers around the world,
The SkyTop crag at the Mohonk Mountain House!
Until I ee the pictures I do not miss my home crag the way that you and I don't miss Yosemite!
wow to see the crisp shots of the cliff that is closed to all but the rich and famous, makes me
yearn again for Bishop's Terrace a climb that makes a great free solo with a rope trailing for
retreat. That rope is not needed if the Sound And Fury is your target, the walk down is a trip
to Disney land as you climb down wooden ladders, inside the cliff on a stout trail called the
Lemon Squeeze.
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Gypsy
Social climber
NC
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Great to read the story of the climb of Torre Egger. I know that at one time I must have heard the story orally; probably tucked away in Toad Hall parked on a wintry day in Camp 4. Rick Sylvester sitting at the table with a cup of tea in his hand and a plate of chocolate chip cookies fresh out of our Coleman oven. He always had great stories and I would love to hear more.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
!gee Nome - mouse took all the lines (subject to interpretation), but that was some mighty impressive hang time back yonder up above. You're not still up there are ya?
I now understand why they shot Liberty Valance rather than hang him.
Jack Palance? Another story all together and a bit of a surprise to me.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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^Alan getz a notice in the text. I don't know why they didn't put everybody's names in the title. Sharp eyes nonetheless DMT.
I followed a gal to the Station once. I guess a lot of folks have.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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Let's get this train back on track. This is after all a carz thread, no?
That machine at 2:06 looks to me like it's on PCH, not Route 66.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Yeah z I am up and can only grab the desk dex at very strange and random times,
Your stuff iz got the zot!! amazing that my lifes'sound trax,& tunes are what you continue to post Up!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Warren Hains band that Big rich ross Is familiar with!! I think we are all flamers together in the playin' of the deepest tunes and if like I try to Yoda like talk to is that the Double split Infinitive
yo too much hooye . . . listen up or not It has a long intro [Click to View YouTube Video]
This was as good a show as these guys play I would recommend the entire show but it is broken down by song on utube so here is a long one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tghNvDx-2zs
The low spark of High heeled boyzz
Okay I know poor form but this is to raw a song to just pop in willy nilly. . .
"Wearing High Heeled Sneakers and acting . . . ."
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, zbrown... oh my and man oh man... tommy tucker... for sure, no one tops that song, by him...
i never knew the, the dj's never seemed to say them...
but man oh man, the sound/voice/style... THAT'S the one, i
always heard and that's the one that will always
be THE BEST... :)
thanks, as, say, NOW i know the name, :)
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Shoe poopy?[Click to View YouTube Video]"Glad I didn't step in it!"
Twenty-five pitches up the cliff
Like my shoes all nice and stiff
Steppin' up in hero loops all day.
Moment of formal silence, please
For mis-stepping friends who've died
While walking mountain screes.
[Click to View YouTube Video]Comedians & angels,
I miss those friends tonight.
We'll start with old John B.
And don't forget old Richie.
Canadians & Angels,
We miss those guys all right.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
Fickle fate?Fickle toes?
For good times with Randy and Gypsy.
April fooled him,
I called you,
That was the last I talked to you (sing.)
Until this website became part of me (thus us, oui)
Joining me to all of you (pl.)
Aiglets are the last thing on the minds
Of any eaglets eager to emerge from the nest.
They fly away with no word of farewell.
Who can know the last thing on their minds.
In the wink of an eyelet their soles are turning
Toe wards their new sky trails.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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She's so busy bein' free.
Ask for eternity.
Take what you get.
Don't fret.
[Click to View YouTube Video]Every fate is for the best
Even so never end your quest
Soon enough your final rest
Will come and you will finally know
All that you thought was not known only to you
PROVIDING
Whether you have paid a high enough premium
Some call it dues
From which comes duly
Hang your head
Hang your laundry
Hang by your own hands until then
Saint Sylvester is watching you in SenseAbound
http://www.aussiegolfer.net/rules-of-golf-ball-overhanging-the-hole/
edit: VVV (While we wait for Gnome to tie his shoes in the next post) VVV
From the Mousollini outpost--there has been a Bombacci sighting!
How exciting...just like an ex-sighting.
“With the beard of Bombacci / we will weave rags / to clean the shoes / of Benito Mussolini”.
http://ironmarch.org/index.php?/topic/1979-nicola-bombacci-revolutionary-socialist/
Bombacci and the first left at the bottom with the arm on Sten.--Google Translator
Bel colpo, Gnome. Sei tu? O è la tua scalatore fantasma?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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I visit when I can, there is so much to add and much gets lost, not added. So many layers!
That is an ephemeral me in the reflection of the well received puddle! love these pics ! the left edge Is a .13d/ ? called Blade Runner then the top of Open Cockpit and the climber setting up the optional belay stance, on Sound & Fury.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
"
Another record from my childhood. I recall at one point in the early 1970's my mother just
picked up a bunch of records for me from somewhere out of the blue.
I imagine she was at a store record display and figured "hey I think I'll just pick out some records for the kids to listen to"...
I don't really know, but it was around 1971-72 and included a couple albums by the
Ventures, Highwaymen, Johnny Cash, and singles by Joe Simon (Moon Walk), Shannon
(Abergavenny), Smith (Baby It's You), Spanky & Our Gang (And She's Mine), Nitty Gritty Dirt
Band (Mr.Bojangles), Commader Cody (Hot Rod Lincoln), Foster Sylvers (Misdemeanor), James
Brown (Spinning Wheel) and Ray Charles (this one here).
The Ray Charles single I played to death; really great stuff.
As I got older and knew more about Ray Charles' music I found this record was somewhat
unique, as nothing else I had ever heard by him was like it.
I started to try and find out where it came from, and it's from a fairly obscure album called
"My Kind Of Jazz" in 1970. Not much more info about it than that...
I searched for years trying to find it (this was well before the abundance of the internet),
and finally in the 90's found a $25 CD reissue of it packaged with another album
"Genius + Soul".
I was stunned -
I truly was expecting to find more of the same as this single I grew up with all over that Lp, but
to my dismay it was loaded with jazz standards and "big band" style recordings -
which granted are perfectly fine, but are nothing compared to the groove on this single.
The only tracks that even come close in any way, are these two!
So it was a bummer to discover that, but makes this single all the more fun to listen to,
for me."
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