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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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What was that thread from the wee hours? some thing to do with Elk!
as of now the search for meaning is suspended.
The search for what the meaning of the Cleft was left me wanting to find and post a Gulf, a notch a split crest; A Cleft!(then I tripped over these!!)
v
^ Above is Open Cockpit 5.11+ & the climbers are on The Sound & fury 5.8,
Both 5 star routes at Skytop, (below). the climbs are left of the obvious crevice,
On the left side face of the next big open corner just right of the tower , left of the Foops Roof.
V
Heading Up To FOOPS!V
V. . FOOPs ING!. .V
V V
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, mouse... thank you... oh my, and yes... just got some fun little stuff wrapped up to surprise a few folks...
i happened to come across a neat little basket that this gal had at her store... neat little old trinkets, that seemed to match very very well, for a few taco folks... wow, as if 'by higher design' from that ol' GREAT DESIGNER in the heavens...
what a fun find and since they only cost about fifty cents, i surely could
afford them all... i hope they will make many smiles... and:
ONE is for you, too...
how about that... won't give it away, but, well, yep, i AM GIVING it away...
it is a:
___
well, YOU ONLY GET one give away, and since i am giving it away by
mail, well, i reckon i can't 'give it away' here...
so you will just have to wait, :)
there, i did my 'mouse duty' to the flames, this eve, by:
leaving a word-play for mouse...
:)
night now... sleeping early, as, i got up wayyyyyyyyyyyy
tooooooo early, this day... will be up later, of course,
and ready to roll--
meaning to roll the ol' paint brush, :)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, ... we came to visit, ... hear that there is a mouse here...
night now...
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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hey there
say, neebee
It looks like either russ is a fast eater or like our own MFM likes to share his little tidbits.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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Pretty nice record keeping Gypsy.
I have a postcard a friend sent me from Nepal in 1969. He's no longer here on Earth.
I don't like it, but I gues things happen that way.
Presented with DMT's menu above, rather than giving this day to myself some daily bread, I'd take the pecan pie in a flash.
In your rather extended address list MFM, I must admit that I've only ever gone to Will Rogers and Bob Dylan's houses (the ones in California).
Neither Will nor Bob could surf worth a shit!!, but they sure were funny and they sure told the truth and I seemed to know what they were talking about
I do know where Lenny Bruce lived (8825 Hollywood Blvd. - not far from Gower) and died. Record producer Phil Spector, a friend of Bruce's, bought the negatives of the photographs to keep them from the press.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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South America, Chile and Argentina—Patagonia,
Torre Egger and Innominata Climbs And Expeditions
Torre Egger and Innominata. Our expedition consisted of Dr. Daniel Reid, Rick Sylvester, Americans, Rafael Juárez, Argentine, Eric Jones, Tut Braithwaite, Martin Boysen, Mick Coffey, Keith Lewis, Don Whillans and me, British.
For more than two months, from the first days of December into February, we threw everything we had at a vertical pillar which is topped by a mushroom of ice.
Torre Egger, named after Toni Egger, the Austrian who disappeared on Cerro Torre, on first acquaintance is rather diminutive compared to its higher neighbor, Cerro Torre.
This is a false impression for although its summit is 800 feet lower than Cerro Torre, the climbing starts 1000 feet lower. We were surprised when we had run out of 5000 feet of fixed rope how much of the climb was still left.
We had our customary fair share of the indescribably bad Patagonian weather, but ironically it was not the bad weather but the good that stopped us from reaching the top.
A spell of weather lasting eventually for 20 days was given us, but our team at that stage was weak. Jones had torn a knee ligament; Whillans had gone home; I had shingles; and Juárez had died with a companion on Cerro Adela. This left Reid, Sylvester, Boysen and Braithwaite with Coffey to back them up, still a strong team but reduced in size.
The weather was good and progress was made, but it went slowly for the walls of Torre Egger are very steep and don’t lend themselves to fast progress. The mushroom was collapsing and Torre Egger was turned into a murder place.
We saw pieces the size of houses slide off and a small piece—no larger than a tennis ball—broke Braithwaite’s arm. A gigantic icicle, 100 feet long and of many tons, loomed above the route.
The high point that Reid reached was just below its tip but everyone else agreed that continuing was unjustified. Two days later I had recovered sufficiently to join the team and we changed our objective to the unclimbed Innominata.
After 3000 feet of scree and slabs, we reached the bottom and had a comfortable bivouac. At six the next morning we started to climb the steep slabs leading to the col between the Innominata and the Aguja St. Exupéry.
These were pleasant and often difficult but above were no mushrooms or icicles. Above the col the headwall reared steeper. Reid nailed it, followed by Boysen and me, while Sylvester brought up Braithwaite with his fractured arm.
We had thought that we would reach the summit that night and had no bivi gear but by seven P.M. Reid came to a vertical crack that looked as if it needed bongs.
We had none and so Boysen climbed it free at what he thought to be good Welsh extreme standard and in boots. He climbed it with one boot and one hand in the crack with his other limbs lashing along the edge of the crack.
He thought he was off a few times before he reached the top of the crack and when he did, he was so exhausted that he could not belay for five minutes. We all followed, but still there was one pitch left.
Reid went up again nailing and reached the summit as darkness arrived. Fortunately sixty feet below the top was a ledge covered with large boulders. Here we bivouacked without food and bivi gear.
Cannily Sylvester and Braithwaite had duvets in the bottoms of their rucksacs. I had an anorak, but Reid and Boysen had only shirts on and spent a cold night dancing together beneath the southern stars with the wind starting a storm.
We thought we were in trouble but it held back and as the false dawn broke, Braithwaite, Sylvester and I went to the summit, took a few photos, left a badge of Rafael Juárez’s Cordoba Alpine Club and started our retreat.
Five hours later we were back on the glacier at our Advance Base Camp. Some of us waited for another six weeks to see if colder weather would bring a fresh spell of good days, but this was not to be.
Leo Dickinson, Alpine Climbing Group
1974
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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St. Don Boxco presents
Old Gear that we tried to take seriously.Bit of a rarity this as not many were made and very few have survived. As the name implies,they were the brainchild of Don Whillans who had created a rough, wooden version whilst on an expedition to Patagonia in the 60's. A second version was created from angle iron and orange rucksack canvas with the resultant weight penalty.
The finished article came from a collaboration between Whillans and Mike Parsons of Karrimor who used their pack frame technology to fabricate the frame and a version of rucksack canvas for the covering and even though an early prototype blew away whilst being tested in the Cairngorms, several of the box tents found their way to the slopes of Everest and Annapurna in the 1970's.
This particular tent was given to Mick Tighe by Hugh McNicol who ran a company called Mountain Technology in Glencoe in the 1980's & 90's. Hugh had acquired it on one of his Himalayan trips.
SMHC/Scottish Mtn. Heritage Collection
http://www.smhc.co.uk/
Support comes from the Heritage Lottery Fund.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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In the pub.
In the coffee place next door.
MMFM/Mariposa Midnight From Mariposa.
A little light hangin' music, maestro!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Gnome, nice hangin' with you...respect for one-hand pulls out of the thin air.
It could have been a better shot if you had some mountain boots, though, not those dainties.
So HTFU so you can show us it's possible. :0)
Tom Dooley Tom Dooley
He was so old school-y.
He was too unruly
And was tried and hung duly
According to law.
Gremmie was on the wrong beach
Locals thought this was a breach
And so it was left up to each
A lesson this punk for to teach
And he hangs there still.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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F. oops, did I ever imply that I was he? a swinging footloose,
One handed, caught in motion as the crux grab, was excellently caught by an unknown and un credited photographer.?
It is not me in the pictures, I did not snap them,
but those climbs, are what I was all about !
And they are great pics,I found on the Internet !
As was the fashion of the day,
I cllimbed them both in better and better style, each time using less and
Less gear until both fell to third class ascents.
if an opportunity to climb at SkyTop is ever extended,
Go! it is the home that weened many a great climber.
I feel. the same way about the pictures,
They are of the place I spent the best years ofmy life,
My extended childhood!
In the hood of Fritz and Hans,
Where some of jstan's best(still sandbags 30+ years later) call home,
The one, the only and still sacred to climbers around the world,
The SkyTop crag at the Mohonk Mountain House!
Until I ee the pictures I do not miss my home crag the way that you and I don't miss Yosemite!
wow to see the crisp shots of the cliff that is closed to all but the rich and famous, makes me
yearn again for Bishop's Terrace a climb that makes a great free solo with a rope trailing for
retreat. That rope is not needed if the Sound And Fury is your target, the walk down is a trip
to Disney land as you climb down wooden ladders, inside the cliff on a stout trail called the
Lemon Squeeze.
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Gypsy
Social climber
NC
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Great to read the story of the climb of Torre Egger. I know that at one time I must have heard the story orally; probably tucked away in Toad Hall parked on a wintry day in Camp 4. Rick Sylvester sitting at the table with a cup of tea in his hand and a plate of chocolate chip cookies fresh out of our Coleman oven. He always had great stories and I would love to hear more.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
!gee Nome - mouse took all the lines (subject to interpretation), but that was some mighty impressive hang time back yonder up above. You're not still up there are ya?
I now understand why they shot Liberty Valance rather than hang him.
Jack Palance? Another story all together and a bit of a surprise to me.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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^Alan getz a notice in the text. I don't know why they didn't put everybody's names in the title. Sharp eyes nonetheless DMT.
I followed a gal to the Station once. I guess a lot of folks have.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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Let's get this train back on track. This is after all a carz thread, no?
That machine at 2:06 looks to me like it's on PCH, not Route 66.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Yeah z I am up and can only grab the desk dex at very strange and random times,
Your stuff iz got the zot!! amazing that my lifes'sound trax,& tunes are what you continue to post Up!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Warren Hains band that Big rich ross Is familiar with!! I think we are all flamers together in the playin' of the deepest tunes and if like I try to Yoda like talk to is that the Double split Infinitive
yo too much hooye . . . listen up or not It has a long intro [Click to View YouTube Video]
This was as good a show as these guys play I would recommend the entire show but it is broken down by song on utube so here is a long one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tghNvDx-2zs
The low spark of High heeled boyzz
Okay I know poor form but this is to raw a song to just pop in willy nilly. . .
"Wearing High Heeled Sneakers and acting . . . ."
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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