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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 19, 2009 - 01:03am PT
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Thanks bvb, I'm not either. Wish I had more pics. I only have some current comments from jb that I think I will keep for later. Damn.....and I rarely ever swear, missing this Dude and concerned about the impact of his loss to his loved ones. When you're larger than life as jb was the loss so unexpectedly is more than one can absorb in a short period of time.
Keeping the memories alive.... for Tyrus and Paola and all his loved ones and friends, lynne
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jul 19, 2009 - 08:41am PT
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Goatboy-
That Dean foto is one of the most interesting "climbing" photos I have ever seen. Mari, JL, Roy all looking amazed.
What's the story?
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jul 19, 2009 - 11:29am PT
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I believe the title of that group photo is "Joshua Tree Olympics" or something like that. If Dean's lurking he can clairfy I'm sure
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To Tall
Social climber
Irvine,ca
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Jul 19, 2009 - 11:41am PT
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I started climbing in ‘81, my partner and I were sitting in the Impala hiding from the cold breeze. Facing the Left Ski Track someone started climbing it with no rope. Our eyes popped out, on the edge of the seat, heart pounding. At the time I didn’t know anyone climbed anything ropeless for any reason. As he made a few moves, no more worries. With jaws dropped we witnessed his solid effortless ballet style, which we also had no idea existed. After he finished I jumped out of the car and went up to someone who looked like a good climber and asked, “Who was that guy?” From that day on, leading the Left Ski Track was the goal. Years later, feeling fine after a few shots of Johnny Black, I soloed it.
One day at Owens River, at Dilithium Crystal, JB walks down with an oversized boom box on full battery load jamming James Brown. It looked like he was having a good day. I heard him rambling over and over JBKOS, and then he said, “James Brown is the King of Soul.” From the front row I saw him solo almost every route there. The way he climbed took all the suspense away. There was no chance he was going to fall. Looking back, I think he meant John Bachar is the King of soloing.
Whatever the case, my hat will always tipped in memory of Bachar. HE WAS THE KING.
Jim Gregg
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jul 19, 2009 - 02:44pm PT
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Dave...is that you?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 19, 2009 - 02:59pm PT
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yep that be davey jones neilson methinks.
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grandpa
Trad climber
Wheat Ridge, CO
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Jul 19, 2009 - 07:14pm PT
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I am so sorry about this. John was always a hero of mine and an inspiration. I send my best to his family and friends. I won't forget him!
Richard Squire
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 20, 2009 - 12:12am PT
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John Bachar was a great and gifted man. That is a complicated thing to be.
Your vision of what is possible is expanded by the fact that current limits of possibility are well within your reach, and you know you have more in you.
When you are great, people treat you differently. Your opinion carries extra weight. You have to find yourself while subjected to a self-reinforcing feedback loop of respect and more.
The evolution of John Bachar is not only a story of a gifted man using those gifts for greatness, but also of a great man coming down to earth to care for his community and family.
When somebody dies, it’s a natural tendency to extol the fine qualities they had and ignore the difficult ones.
When somebody great dies, we often take a step further and idolize them. Great people are still humans with a spectrum of challenges, weaknesses and unique perspectives.
John Bachar was one of the greatest climbers and he knew it. People wanted his attention and time, and he had to manage that.
He had the vision to climb outside of other’s patterns and thrive on the edge of perfection when any error could be his last.
He had the courage to defend his risks without denying them, and also to question the veracity and integrity of the government running the country, and particularly it’s monetary system. He wasn’t just a rock jock, he was a thinking man.
He wanted things to have integrity, on the stone and in the halls of power.
John had stepped out of climbing for a number of years due to some health limitations but I did a photo shoot with him for a couple days in 2006 after he was able to return to the sport. Everyone marveled at how easily it seemed to come back to him. In between photographing some classic solos, we talked about everything from climbing, to relationships, to politics.
I was struck by the deep concern and love he conveyed toward his son Tyrus. Those who imagine John disrespected Tyrus by continuing to solo would be mistaken. Everything on John’s radar considered the welfare of Tyrus: falling just wasn’t on his radar.
I was struck by the sincerity with which he spoke of relationships. A handsome, single, famous guy could enjoy a playboy lifestyle but John was interested in having a committed and enduring partner.
We spoke of his family, his father, and it was easy to see he held them in high regard.
I was impressed when John, who in his youth had a certain reputation for aloofness or arrogance toward the masses, began posting on Supertopo in a helpful and generous egalitarian style. He gave a way a lot of shoes, a lot of advice, and weighed in on many issues without blatantly pulling rank.
Some might have said that was only good for his shoe company but his views regarding Bush, 9-11, and the Monetary system were upfront and not compatible with smoozing clients and customers. He was just being himself.
Walking around JTree. He was no longer aloof. All kinds of folks greeted and approached him and he was gracious with everybody.
Mike Reardon, Anastasia, John and I were at a climb in Echo Cove (Anastasia was climbing) Some folks came around the corner and asked about “The Big Moe” an overhanging 5.11 nearby. I got to tell them that crazy John Bachar soloed that thing back in the day. They ooohed and Ahhed but never knew he was standing right there.
I think there is a rhyme and reason to everything. I don’t expect everyone to agree. But I think John must have done what he needed to do here and had other business beyond this world that we can’t begin to know about. History is full of great man who make an exit before fading away. I wish him Godspeed on the great solo we all must do alone.
For those who are left behind. I hope it helps to be reminded that grief is very close to Love. We grieve because we Love. If you focus on the Love when feeling the grief, there is a bittersweet beauty in it.
Peace
Karl Baba
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L
climber
The Paleozoic rift of the Caradoc drift
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Jul 20, 2009 - 12:22am PT
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Thank you for that beautiful post, Karl. I totally agree with you.
And thanks for that photo...what a magical image.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Jul 20, 2009 - 12:33am PT
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Thank you, Karl.
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malabarista
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jul 20, 2009 - 01:24am PT
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Karl that was great. Been thinking about Bachar -a lot. Need some new shoes and gonna try the Acopas.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the ground up
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Jul 20, 2009 - 04:47pm PT
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(from my copy of Stone Crusade)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 20, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
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From the bulletin board at the T Meadows store, yesterday;
Now that's climbing the Wyde with Pryde!
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Jul 20, 2009 - 07:00pm PT
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Beautiful.
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Forest
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jul 21, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
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Imagine my surprise when I got to the end of this week's Economist magazine and saw an obituary for Bachar...
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jul 21, 2009 - 07:45pm PT
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The two JB's
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 08:00pm PT
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Economist, New York Times, LA Times, they all get the details of the climbing wrong, but the fact that Bachar has gathered this level of attention is phenomenal.
The economist guesses that Bachar "must have made some move that was ugly, clumsy, or distracted. If he had kept the climb focused and beautiful, he could not possibly have died."
Yeah I guess that's a valid possibility, but I don't think it went down that way.
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Forest
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jul 21, 2009 - 08:09pm PT
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Yeah, I got what they were trying to saw, but I didn't like that closing sentence either. It sort of ignores the whole part about it being a real environment and not a climbing gym. Holds break unexpectedly. Rockfall from above. Unexpected animals in cracks. Who knows...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 22, 2009 - 01:32am PT
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Paul, I had forgotten about this pic. Lol, and haven't done much of that lately. Super pic and thinking about the times, the dimes and the climbs from these dudes. Also lol about the faces....from then til now. Wow !
Cheers to you up in the North. :D Lynne
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