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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Aug 10, 2009 - 01:17pm PT
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I was commenting about this being it's final year. Sorry for the misunderstanding
Peace
Karl
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Aug 10, 2009 - 01:37pm PT
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The route just left of the Gold Buttress is Blazing Saddles 5.12a, by Hansel. Heads up the blunt slab then tackles the steep arete, as mentioned. Look forward to seeing your pics of Charlotte, mooch!
Oh, and Grahm, it was a climbing mouse indeed, as it reportedly had a nest made of someone's chewed up bright blue webbing. Don't think it was sporting a chalk bag yet, though!
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 10, 2009 - 03:42pm PT
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Ok it looks like I won't have time to post pics this week, so here's the quick report. Graham's got some good shots. Especially of his new patented super dynamic sling!
Graham, John, and Sue did the FA of Grahams new 5.11a on Gray. Reports are that it is a STELLAR line. Good job all!
I put up "Don't Leave Your Bro Behind" 5.7 pro to 6 inches on Beagles Nest. It follow P-Crack then veers out onto the face a bit when it gets really wide. I think the name explains why I didn't follow P-Crack all the way.
Mucci and I are heading up thursday PM for a while (read as 10+ days) so get a hold of me if you want to know more details about our lack of a plan.
kev
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 10, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
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"I think the name explains why I didn't follow P-Crack all the way."
No Kev, it's because you left your Huevos at the camp.
Oh and you didn't have me yelling at you, which we both know makes you send.
Edit: # 600 Baby Whoooooop!!!!!!!!!!!
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Setageus
Trad climber
East Bay San Fransisco
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Aug 10, 2009 - 05:29pm PT
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O damn, Mucci, you beat me to the 600th post!
Had a lot of fun climbing Grey Ham and Chicken Heads at Shuteye! It's amazing!
The climb in question at LE involves face climbing to slopers around a bulge, but we took the thin crack that's right there until it runs too far from the bolt line. Nice photo Mooch! That climb looks really good.
We probably will be around Labor Day wkend afterall. Just can't seem to leave the area!
Did first 2 pitches of Tork's climb Dream within a Dream. Needs some traffic on the 2nd pitch, but it's beautiful climbing!
Trying to post a photo of Tork on his last climb finished at Shuteye if I can get my first ST photo posted properly:
BubbleShare: Share photos - Find great Clip Art Images.
Will have to try posting photo again later...
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Aug 10, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
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Look forward to seeing your pics of Charlotte, mooch!
See our Flikr account for recent photos Nater. ;)
Wow! I got the 602nd post.....whoopee!
Set, kev, John, Sue and crew.....everyone is planning on Labor Day? God, we're total Shuteye whores! :D
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 10, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
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mooch,
Unless I don't make it up on the 29th, that'll be 15 weeks in a row...Swing by on the 22nd if you're in the neighborhood, it's my bday! There will be beer!
kev
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 10, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
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Hey Seta,
Heres and easy way to post pics.
1) Get a photobucket account.
2) Make the account private (otherwise you'll get weird stalkers)
3) Upload your photos
4) Go back to the album view, scroll the mouse cursor over the photo, copy the IMG link (I think it's the last one that shows up when you scroll over a photo
5) Paste the IMG link into the taco and voila!!!
kev
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 10, 2009 - 05:43pm PT
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mucci,
Um, yeah wait till you climb it... Last pro 20 feet below marginal nut and green yellow alien tied as a mini anchor....
"It's only 5.7 but a little sandy'
Reguardless P-crack will get finished friday or monday...
kev
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Aug 10, 2009 - 05:44pm PT
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Sh*t!!! Got plans with family...sorry bro. Belated beers comin' for your b-day present....and it won't be Bud Light. Surprise! :)
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 10, 2009 - 05:46pm PT
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mooch,
Hahah. I actually have been drinking bud light because it really seems to hydrate me pretty well. That and the cans crush down.
See you in a few weeks at some point either way!
kev
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 10, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
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Kev, Do I need to bring the 2x4's?
It's only 5.7 reads: Your getting "Wydebagged", Been there, done that, needed 2 #5's!
As to the Beer switch, Kev had a honorable "good beer" drinking ethic which has since disappeared. During the winter times the "Kev" can be found in the lower canyon of the Valley. He usually needs those extra calories to stay in proper fighting shape. Thus mass quantities of pale ale and some brutal elixir named eye of the chickenhawk or something usually get consumed and little climbing gets done.
Right now he is prepping for wall season and wants to maintain his ghastly figure for the ladies at the pools and those occasional wide sends.
As for me, the lightweight stuff is killing me and I vow to bring some good micros for the weeks to come.
Oh and I can't wait to get on some of that good LE stuff! Whooooop!
Mucci
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Aug 10, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
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Tork at Shuteye Ridge Finishing his project:
Also have a one-second movie by accident of you Jeff! Learning to use this camera still. :}
Photo of pools:
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 11, 2009 - 12:27am PT
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Kick ass!!!!
I've received clearance from my wife that I can go to Shuteye for the KevFest 2009!!! She was gonna come too with my son but decided to stay local.
I'll be there the weekend of the 22nd. See you Shuteye bumbs there!
(kev already gave me the down-low on etiquette for the area)
I'm stoked!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 11, 2009 - 01:10am PT
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Yeeaaahhh Bluey, can't wait buddy!
By that friday me and kev will probably be on a rationing program with the 4 thirty packs we have for the trip.
I know Col. Blue will bring in some 12 oz reinforcements!
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Aug 11, 2009 - 02:00pm PT
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Kev....its all about resistance training, bro. How on earth will you cope when we need to hit the higher reaches of Shuteye and you're toting foo-foo water?
Again, this will "fix" that discrepancy:
Substitutes as a big bro for uberwyde lines......problem fixed.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 11, 2009 - 02:13pm PT
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^^^^BWHAAAA!
"toting foo-foo water"
that needs to be a route name!
Kev is turning in his cubicle right now, " If i drink ten good ones, I can't manage the approach, If I drink twenty foo- foo's, you'll be catching up all day"
I have heard a version of this explained to me at one point or another, once again I do not condone any of this FOO-FOO!
Mucci
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 11, 2009 - 04:02pm PT
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Wait,
You mean I can use that can for the wide instead of bringing 2x4's to make my big cams bigger! Wow I can drink, partially crush and wedge between cam and wall! Perfect for the wide.
Graham,
Post up some of those pics....Especially of the Hane's Pro!
kev
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 11, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
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Mucci thinks we have only 4 thirty packs...snicker....
New rout name
"Foo-foo brew - I will send and you will spew"
kev
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 11, 2009 - 04:14pm PT
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DMT,
Apparently the stove thing is a portable set up - bring in, use for an evening and take it home...It doesn't reside there.
kev
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