The Sheep Buggerers of JT...BITD

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dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
May 8, 2016 - 08:23pm PT
No Tom, Apron not Dome.



I could be wrong but......anyone?
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
May 8, 2016 - 08:32pm PT
Thanks Jeff, I don't have a guidebook handy but.......sounds familiar.
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2016 - 08:37pm PT
Not Harry Daley?
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
May 8, 2016 - 08:47pm PT
I was looking for some other stuff but found this book of mega clean topos that I made back in the day.
It refutes something I said up thread but I'm good with that. I led the second pitch of Swept Away on the FA in 2 different pushes....OK what evs.


There may be other cool stuff in here.



I remember now....we went up in the late afternoon and I got the bolt in to protect the crux and RV took the shot in Mtn. Mag. We were done at that point. I was worked.
On the ground were Jim Dutzi and son(?) with peyote. We hustled down and ............
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Lassitude 33
May 8, 2016 - 08:50pm PT
Dave, The Apron crack route looks kinda like Lonely Dancer 5.10c.

Nice Topo. One of the days, Wonderly took some pictures of us with mu camera from the ground. Have the slides somewhere.
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
May 8, 2016 - 08:52pm PT
Dee eee....drove by the shepards tub a few hours ago...You posting out there again..?
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
May 8, 2016 - 08:54pm PT
NO, NO, I'm thinking it was "Son of Sam." 5.10a !!!!!!!!!!!!!!5/85




Oh, and also, I'm thinkin' "put up ropes" means you put up a rope, not just standin' around twiddling your thumbs while some other dude put the rope up.

Just sayin'.


Johnny, I left there yesterday around 1pm.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 9, 2016 - 06:46am PT
Here's some Joe Boy hieroglyphics,
Depicting FAs of routes done in the Indian Cove backcountry, between 1978 and 1980:




Artwork, Jeff Sewell


Alternate renditions:



Artwork, Roy McClenahan


1978
February, FA Euhedral, 5.7, Roy McClenahan, Larry Stone
March, FA Babylonia, 5.7 , Roy McClenahan, Larry Stone

1979
January, FA Taken for Granite, 5.7+, Jeff Sewell, Larry Stone, Dave Bruckman
February, FA Cactus Cooler, 5.10a/b, Roy McClenahan, Larry Stone, Jeff Sewell
February, FA 200 motels, 5.7+, Roy McClenahan, Jeff Sewell
March, FA Let's Bolt, 5.7, Roy McClenahan, Jeff Sewell, Dave Bruckman, John Frericks (Listed as FA April 78, in Jeff's artwork above)(establish first pitch of Cracked Actor)
April, FA Carmania, 5.7, Jeff Sewell, Roy McClenahan, Larry Stone
April, FA Spanish Bayonet, 5.8+, Lynn Hill, Roy McClenahan, Larry Stone, Jeff Sewell

1980
January, FA Cracked Actor, 5.9, Roy McClenahan, Larry Stone, Nick Badyrka (Listed as FA January 1, 1980 in Jeff's artwork above)
February, FA attempt, Scream of the Butterfly, Roy McClenahan, Jeff Sewel
February, FA attempt, Chaos and Control (Chaos, a right arching finger crack, became a Hidetaka Suzuki project)
February, FA Tied to the Whipping Post, 5.11a, Roy McClenahan, Nick Badyrka, Jim Angione (Listed as FA January 2, 1980 in Jeff's artwork above)
February, FA Hightops, 5.10a, Roy McClenahan, Jeff Sewell (Listed in Bartlett guide as February 1979. May have been late 1979)
February, FA Mr. Pibbs, 5.9, Roy McClenahan, Ron Hassler
February, FA Madam Wong's, 5.10 Roy McClenahan, Ron Hassler


*Alexander's Empire a.k.a. Ancient Kingdom a.k.a. NASA Wall
*Chocolate Sundays became Afro Awareness Week

All routes as listed in Bartlett's 1991 guide, Rock climbs of Indian Cove

*Mr. Pibbs & Madam Wrong's: both are bolted slabs. They are further up the canyon from Rattlesnake Buttress, beyond Hightops, and on the right. A few 1/4 inch bolts per climb. The routes went unreported.




*Hey Jeff, the 200 Motels mystery is solved!
We did in fact climb that route. It is not a mis-attribution in the guidebook, as you see it was included in my drawing.
overwatch

climber
Arizona
May 9, 2016 - 07:05am PT
That is so cool this thread is a treasure trove
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 9, 2016 - 08:04am PT
Ha ha.

Spanish Bayonet was Lynnie's lead, and has since been retro bolted.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/spanish-bayonet/105723943

 In the second topo, see Jeff Sewell's skull and cross bones markup!

We all saw her run it out past ground fall territory and then place a shaky hex.

"Hey Lynn, what's with the funky nut placement?"

"Protection is just psychological, boys."
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
May 9, 2016 - 12:07pm PT
Spanish Bayonet was Lynnie's lead, and has since been retro bolted.

Wonder who did the deed? Mistaken second FA?

We climbed it in Feb. '93 and the bolt was there, so sometime prior to that.
I have no idea how we ended up back in that canyon that day, but kind of recall it being a nice route.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 9, 2016 - 12:31pm PT
Probably Bill Todd and John Nye.
They did these some of things in 1987, before we reported any of it.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 9, 2016 - 12:51pm PT
Randy Vogel!

This portrait of M&M is tops!
It's pure cultural anthropology.

No question, this was a tribal thing:


Photo, Randy Vogel
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 9, 2016 - 01:04pm PT
Yep, a TRIBAL THANG.
And we start them off real young … Hanna preps the rads, 2006:



Hanna's parents, Bob and Joselyn:








Faced with an earlier defeat at the boulders, Hanna turns to her trainer for moral support:


Photo, Bob Van Belle collection


...................................................................


Check it, people, just look at Hanna NOW!
16 years old and clearly an exemplary human being:


photo, care of Bob Van Belle
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
May 9, 2016 - 01:37pm PT
Can't believe it has been that long since the boulder session. Hannah looks wonderful Bob. Bet you are a proud papa.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
May 9, 2016 - 01:41pm PT

Rachel cruising at the Cohn Ranch last year.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 9, 2016 - 04:33pm PT
This thread needs more women!
There, I feel better already ... Lisa, Joselyn, Jessica, 2006 reunion:


*Hey, Vik, I bet you remember Jessica, Bullwinkle's girlfriend BITD?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 9, 2016 - 05:01pm PT
Rachel and Hanna, 2006:

Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
May 9, 2016 - 05:02pm PT
Voice of the Crags
or just "voice" for short
WBraun

climber
May 9, 2016 - 05:05pm PT
Yeah ^^^ I remember him lol.

This thread just keeps on buggering ......
Messages 561 - 580 of total 1134 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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