Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2015 - 05:20pm PT
|
Adam,
You guys didn't boulder that one out? Wait, I see the rope is gone in the second photo. I guess you just needed a TR lap to dial it in.
That's because there are already shitters on the Lake Poway side. It's the side we use that needs the (potato chip) shitters. Have fun out there!
I'd like to make the potato chip the shitter.
|
|
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
|
|
Jeeze, the fingers are getting strong there Adam...getting on that thing. Sweet day!
I'd like to make the potato chip the shitter.
That plan has been bandied about. Hard to get some alone time on that chunck of rock if you know what I mean.
|
|
Friend
climber
|
|
Cool JFR. I like the west side better for hiking, east side for climbing.
That split boulder has some obscure gems.
|
|
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
|
|
^^^^^^^^but he's a devoted fan boi!
|
|
jfr
Mountain climber
32N 117W
|
|
Burch
Hikers R light!!!!!!111!!
Thanks. You're right, of course. But remember, fan bois are fickle. You haven't written many awesome TR's lately, I've noticed.
I may have to transfer my hero-worship to Vitaliy...
|
|
jfr
Mountain climber
32N 117W
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2015 - 08:32pm PT
|
Well, my first post was about a 1/10 on Burch's troll-o-meter scale. Sad but true. Maybe I'm just not cut out to be a troll. I should take lessons.
Anyway, above and beyond my own "epic" TR, the real point of my post was to provide a proper fan-boi intro to a really and truly epic TR by the Burchmeister himself. (I probably should have posted it to the ball-cupping thread.) A link to it was within my TR, but I don't think anyone bothered to click on it. So here it is:
http://sangabrielmnts.myfreeforum.org/ftopic3760-0-0-asc-.php
Do stuff like that, and write stuff like that, and maybe you, too, can get a fan-boi of your very own.
Friend
Cool JFR. I like the west side better for hiking, east side for climbing.
That split boulder has some obscure gems.
You mean THIS one? (Maybe this will get things back on topic)
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2015 - 04:10pm PT
|
Back to Mother Superior: Here's my boy Karl Mueller hucking a lap in what I'd guess is sometime '82 or '83ish. Now me, well golly, I did damn near everything up there at least once without a rope, but never MS. I simply could not get the move he is doing in this photo dialed down just right. Of course, Karl was OG San Diego, Mission Gorge born and bred during the Scumbag years, and so it makes perfect sense he'd be soloing Mother Superior. What, like that's a thing? Hmmph. Just another day at Woodson, guys and gals. We shot with live ammo back then.
|
|
Friend
climber
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2015 - 04:24pm PT
|
Mother superior, cordless.
In running shorts. WTF!
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2015 - 05:47pm PT
|
Yeah Andrew. but he's wearing an elastic kneepad. Dab!
I've got some pretty good Karl Mueller stories. In fact I've got a boundless treasure trove of good Karl Mueller stories, some of which are actually true. Like the time he and Alan Nelson picked a particularly busy Saturday in the spring, around '77 or so, for an afternoon of cragging at the Mission Gorge. Now, mind you, in 1977 there was no shortage of old duffers, gumbies, wannabies, no-account meatheads, and ossified Sierra Club RCS types at the Gorge. It was a textbook backwater. If you were a new-age Stonemaster-influenced crag hoodlum out to do some trolling, it was a target-rich environment. And if there was anything that "K1" and "K2" loved to do, it was troll and sandbag the duffers. They invented that sh#t way before Al Gore invented the internet. I'm just sayin', is all.
So Karl and Alan head up the trail outfitted in a raggedy-assed yard-sale assemblage of torn up button down shirts, patched-up lederhosen and knickers, 1950's-vintage klettershue, and a giant rack of Alan's dad's late-pleistecene era climbing gear, vintage crap like Bedayn carabiners, welded steel snap-links, anchient soft-iron pitons and ring angles, hardware-store low-grade ball-peen hammers, weird, mysterious, useless slings and buckles and other assorted props, the works. You get the picture. They looked like they had just gotten off the Eiger and were making a quick stop on their way to Ama Dablam. Of course, it was the frayed, blown out goldline rope they used that really tied the whole ensemble together. They wordlessly started working their way through the entire roster of 5.10 and 5.11's at the crag, doing stuff like simulclimbing The Ramp with knotted slings for pro, down climbing the 5.8's as if this were the most natural behavior in the world, trailing the rope as they soloed around like a couple of drug-addled Emilio Comicis. Although I was not there to witness this spectacle, I have heard tell...
Then there was the time Karl pressured me into being his wingman on a one-day bullet trip to Josh from San Diego: drive up, climb all day, drive back: 7 hours in the car for 5 hours climbing. Seems legit, right? We wound up getting sucked into the gravitational pull of Tobin and his entourage, attempting the FA of some choss heap that clocked in years later at 5.12 b or c or somesuch. Ah, youth. Now, was it Karl or was it Frank Noble who pushed the fully suit-and-tied Alan Nelson into the swimming pool at that Black Tie fundraiser for some Governor's race at that fancy downtown hotel? Were the police summoned, or were we merely tossed out? After so many decades I can't quite recall....
|
|
Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2015 - 06:50pm PT
|
Well sh#t, just when I thought this thread was all dried up. That MS pic is f*#king awesome.
In running shorts. WTF!
Friend,
I've told you before the running shorts are key. You'll come around.
|
|
Karl Mueller
Trad climber
Boulder CO
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2015 - 08:13pm PT
|
Bob, your storytelling abilities are remarkable. Alan Nelson and I did sandbag a few folks once in awhile back in the day, but not to the extent you describe at Mission Gorge. Soloing MS was certainly one of the scarier things I ever did at Woodson, but it helped that I'm 6'3" and was able to reach that upper hold near the finish. Brings back great memories though. One of my favorites was when I was experimenting with Randy Leavitts groundbreaking new technique. I was playing at the base of Boulder 13 and fiddling with hand-stacks at the base of the wide crack. Frank Noble laughingly suggested I just stuff my foot in the crack over my hands and incredibly it worked perfectly first try. I just did a sit up and grabbed the top. Evidently that method became standard afterwards. I have such great memories of Woodson, although the real ace then was Greg Cameron. He used to just arm bar up Mother Superior like it was nothing. I couldn't hardly even hold myself into the crack much less move up it with an arm bar. I also remember watching Chris Lindner's mom toprope Robbins Crack when she was six months pregnant with him. So long ago, but so much fun during such a formative time in our lives.
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2015 - 08:17pm PT
|
wrapping knee to fit.
A0
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2015 - 08:59pm PT
|
This tread just got classy again!
Great stories!
|
|
Karl Mueller
Trad climber
Boulder CO
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2015 - 10:15pm PT
|
Since people seem to be appreciating Woodson stories, here are a couple more. I was about 15 or 16 and trying to get up Monkey Crack for the first time, around 1975 or so. At that point in my life, I had the muscle mass of a stick insect (6'2", 135lbs) and didn't have the strength to be able to pull up on the first overhanging right hand jam, lock off and reach higher with my left. Eric Beck, an old school Yosemite legend happened to be there that day and was spotting me. I bailed out of the right hand jam and my backside hit Eric square in the face on the way down. Blood started spurting out of his nose, which he thought at the time was broken. I was mortified, a young punk high school kid that smashed this accomplished old school climbers face with my ass. Guess he learned to stand back a bit while spotting somebody. Another story was even funnier. I was walking up a steep narrow gully right below Lemon Chiffon. I hear this huge commotion and look around to see what's happening. Evidently a rattlesnake had slithered across the path right behind my heels after I had walked by. Frank Noble was walking directly behind me and just about stepped on the thing. He evidently spun around and jumped into the air, then proceeded to claw his way over another climber walking directly behind him, then landed in a heap and was running down the hill by the time I turned around. I didn't even see the snake and couldn't figure out what the hell had just happened. I mentioned the snake incident to Eric during a subsequent session and remember him saying "rattlesnakes? - yeah, I hate those units".
|
|
Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2015 - 08:23am PT
|
BVB said: "Now, was it Karl or was it Frank Noble who pushed the fully suit-and-tied Alan Nelson into the swimming pool at that Black Tie fundraiser for some Governor's race at that fancy downtown hotel? Were the police summoned, or were we merely tossed out? After so many decades I can't quite recall.... "
Err, that was me. A logical conclusion of underage youth poaching champagne from Republican election night campaign parties. Pushing Alan in seemed like a good idea at the time. He did have his brash edges, and I doubt alcohol softened them. I recall we left of our own volition, since there were no other repercussions. Even Alan didn't hold a grudge.
I wish that guy was still around.
|
|
Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2015 - 08:43am PT
|
While we're still on Karl's bandwagon, I've got a couple pictures, though lamentably not of Woodson.
Careful scrutiny of this long ago eroded away problem at Boomer Beach will reveal the inscribed graffiti by BVB: "Carl M takes tension". Sadly, Karl was apparently unaware of this jab until I pointed it out to him in recent years.
Karl with Watusi at the base of Stone Groove. The tight line on his masterfully managed hip belay suggests BVB is the fish on the other end of that line.
And just to make the bridge between the nostalgic BS and the topic at hand, here's Watusi affecting a casual pose on the TV Screen at Woodson. Clearly, we revered Don Whillans at this point in time...
|
|
Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2015 - 10:48am PT
|
Bra-Jay, the hip belay is totally au courant, absolutely the best way to bring up a competent fast moving second. It's a skill every real climber should both know and have confidence in, just in case you drop your belay-device-du-jour.
Pfft, I've been to Woodson twice in the last 20 years, I can't play your "ID this crack amongst thousands of the best bouldering cracks in existence" game. But here's an easy one for you: what route is Roy miming the beta for?
|
|
Friend
climber
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2015 - 12:16pm PT
|
It's a trick question.
Thumbs down right thumbs up left is key for CA Night, Hear My Train and Driving South. Hell there's even a close-up of it in Premium Miniatures.
I reckon the correct answer is, uhhh... "not Columbo crack"
Well played Off White :)
(More photos please!)
|
|
Friend
climber
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2015 - 12:18pm PT
|
Also, I don't know what the pic is I posted either
Hahahaa classic
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!