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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Oct 21, 2015 - 01:59pm PT
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Hey folks, wanted to chime in on the anchors. Not mine, I would never leave behind cams like that. I'd place some rap bolts or leave behind some webbing. Perhaps it was left by some folks who read this thread and were itching for an FA?
Unfortunately I won't be able to camp but am hopeful to make it out there on Sunday.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Oct 25, 2015 - 11:03am PT
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Photo of cam before:
1 lobe frozen, 1 lobe 1/2 range of motion
yellow plastic scraped away
yellow sling nicked and weathered slightly
Photo of cam after:
lobes all working smoothly
black plastidip over yellow plastic
yellow sling removed, ready for reslinging
Will return if owner can be located
Oddly, Rick and I traversed right, 5.3, and
walked down, no need to rappel
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Oct 25, 2015 - 06:25pm PT
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Nice work Bob. Sorry for your wifes medical difficulty that couldn't allow you to make it out to the get together at the Egyptian Ridge.
John and family, Derek, Tad, and John and Nancy made it. The weather was heavily overcast with a chilling breeze that made the low to mid fifties Temps feel pretty cold at times. Despite this John and I put up a new three pitch route, 5.9 A2, starting in a long classic jamcrack , the second Crack left of the toe of the buttress. Not having wide cams to protect the upper fist/off width we traversed right out onto the prow of the buttress 70' up. Another 60' ended the pitch at the first belay of Northwest Buttress route. From here 60' of 5.8 face climbing on the prow brought us to a vertical to overhanging, left slanting, thin finger Crack which necessitated about 15' of aid (Would probably go free in the 5.11-12 range). John belayed 40 feet higher. Another short pitch of easy face brought us to belay 3 of NW Buttress Route. From here one can either continue up the prow of the butress via NWB direct finish or step left and finish via the original 5.9 corner with the fingercrack.
This morning was even colder than saturday so I brought John and Nancy on a partial grand tour of the Obelisk and Sphinx. Meanwhile John and Derek explored south of the saddle and discovered a new and easily accessible single pitch wall with some quality rock and future routes.
All in all it was great to see my buds John and Derek again and to meet Tad, John and Nancy for the first time. John and Nancy were stoked and we have another trip planned in the near future. Thanks all
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Oct 25, 2015 - 06:31pm PT
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Rick leading pitch 3 of the above.
John at top of P2
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Oct 25, 2015 - 06:36pm PT
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Oh yeah, almost forgot. While unloading the truck I found a Black Diamond harness with a grigri, atc, cleaning tool, and several locking biners. If the owner will let me know I'll get it back to them as soon as possible.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Oct 25, 2015 - 07:02pm PT
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Yeah it's mine. No worries no rush, when you get back sometime will be fine.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Oct 25, 2015 - 07:47pm PT
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oo-la-la
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2015 - 09:38pm PT
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Tad, thanks for putting it together. Had a great time, and good to meet you. Hope we see you again soon.
John and Nancy, good to meet you too. We'll get on some rock one of these days, maybe drop that canyon. Who knows?
Rick and Derek, always good to see you guys. Good times, and good stories. I'm sure we'll get together soon.
Y'all who couldn't make it, we missed ya.
Looking forward to the next get-together.
Oh yeah, I am in possession of a jacket someone left over toward the Spinx. Tell me what color it is, and I will get it to you. Was not left on this trip, as Rick found it on the approach Saturday.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Yesterday, the high temp at ER only reached 42. In spite of this, and the trudge through snow on the the approach, the conditions were perfect in the still air of the south faces. Two short new routes, the first pictured here was approx 130', 5.9. The second was on the Sphinx upper south face ( first Crack system left of John and Laines off width ) was 110' 5.7. If the storms continue to roll in this might well be the end of the season in the Selenites.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2015 - 08:22am PT
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Took advantage of a beautiful fall/winter day in the Selenites to put up two more routes with Rick. 42*, but comfortable in long sleeves on the sunny southern exposure, avoiding the snowy northern faces. Two new routes, in the 100ft neighborhood 5.easy with some harder moves, and both with chimney-ish features. Overall, lots of fun on desert granite.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2015 - 09:43am PT
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Yes, there is potential for a number of new lines. Most look like easier routes; but there are some lines we saw that, though only in the 100ft range, would definitely present enough challenge to keep the younger crowd busy. Bolts recommended for some.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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New formation have a name yet?
Hockman's Escape kinda rolls off the tongue.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2015 - 01:54pm PT
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I hadn't given a name any consideration. That one sounds good.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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The football is on I'm not watching, Eagles vs Cowboys Dallas up 7 - 0 at the end of the first 1/4, I've let my beer get warm taking in all the stoke!
I'm looking and thinking this is so cool !
The ER and all older boys refusing to grow up just climbing fresh stone and yuking it up! It is a long way away from me and in some ways not far at all. Not to tall and the drive in is real but doable? I've got the bug seeing it all and I will ask to get a reprieve to figure out how and who to hook up with to get to the Egyptian Ridge.
I want to get there next spring and it will be this gthread that I look at instead of eating desert
I need to lose weight all winter and get my arse out there this spring , I can't wait.!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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I'm looking for a partner for ER south face of The Sphinx formation anytime in the next week. I spotted a long and classic right leaning finger Crack from the route John and I did a few weeks back. I'll scope the conditions of the road and approach tomorrow when I go up that way looking for Chukar. Any takers? Post here, call, or email.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2015 - 11:11pm PT
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Let me know when you find a partner. I *might* be able to sneak out there, if it's before next friday.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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I'm scoping it tomorrow John. So far no recruits. Bob is out till his wife recovers. Might try Laine or Alex. You wouldn't be playing hooky now, would you?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2015 - 06:22am PT
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Classes are finishing up. Proctored one final yesterday, another on monday. Next week I finish grading and have a couple meetings to attend, hunting elk the following week.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mostly cloudy up there today with 34f temps and a stiff breeze. No snow except for the darkest recesses. Despite the low temps once the sun came out in wind sheltered areas it was quite comfortable. John let me know which day works for you and hopefully it will coincide with a sunny low to still wind day. The birds were a little spooked today. Got off 3 shots but the 100+ yard range and my rusty aim didn't connect.
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