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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 23, 2013 - 12:02am PT
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Funny how ice climbers who aid with those cute little tools think they are so manly and tough.
JohnKelly wrote: Haha don't like your nickname? You certainly earned it
Which translate into I done way more for the climbing community than you and your little tools.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 23, 2013 - 12:05am PT
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I'm sure it's way more " manly and tough" placing retro bolts on rappel.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 23, 2013 - 12:05am PT
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Nazis.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Sep 23, 2013 - 12:16am PT
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I have a question about first ascents that evolves from the alpine game, where some climbs are done and their real value exists for the FA party, but because the route has been done, few or no others are willing to put up with the sometimes extreme hazards involved. It is known that the climb has been done but there is little interest in risking lots for a subsequent ascent.
Does this also play out in the rock climbing community, but differently?
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Sep 23, 2013 - 01:03am PT
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Oh look Bob wants to have a dick measuring contest with John Kelly when its actually a "sac" measuring contest.
Bob, you wouldnt last a second "aiding" off tools on an real alpine route. 5.11 trad doesnt hold a candle to it. Ive done lots of both. And as far as what you've done for the "climbing community", reflect on the definition of Lowest Common Denominator. Do you encourge it?
Ive had safe routes, recently retro bolted for the quoted reason that " kids from the gym climb here ". Ahh f#ck it, dumb it down everybody. America, F@ck yeah!
S#hit, around here the rock gym owners place 1/2" bolts next to handcracks at stick clip height at the local crags...
Some people just cant handle having real (potentially life threatening) consequences associated with their actions... climbing or not, life is deadly. Entitled Americans? We all are. Some are entitled Americans with Sac. Some not. Style matters, if you think it doesnt, you have none. You guys should go put up or sh#t up, wow.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 23, 2013 - 01:08am PT
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F's first and only post. This thread truly is dead. I cannot wait to see it sink and disappear.
Deutschland Uber Alles.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Sep 23, 2013 - 01:16am PT
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Yep, the thread had degenerated enough, that I finally quit lurking, and started posting. I think it went exponentially down hill when the "drill baby drill" guy wanted to compare 5.12 ticklists.... uhhhhh yup. Just because a guy who normally doesnt spray as hard as you all decides to voice his opinion one single time, that means the thread has gone to s#it? Or you just don't like my opinion, dont want to refute it reasonably. Gosh, F^ck you too dude. Thanxs for the welcome to the forum. Under 35, and still actually climb sometimes. I did 15 new routes this summer, some bolted, some not, some ground up some not. Oooooh look at my dick... Style matters.
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
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Sep 23, 2013 - 01:54am PT
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Wow!
Headed downhill fast. Oh well.
One post above ask about repeating routes that were dangerous. Something about how they had already been done, so why bother taking the risk again. Interesting.
From a personal point of view, I do avoid routes that "x" rated. (I don't mind the occasional "X" rated movie)I say avoid because in some cases, a really long route my be worth the risk in a couple of passages.
I've put up a couple of routes that turned out to be "X" rated. It wasn't intentional, the gear just wasn't where I assumed it would be when I ventured up. Couple of those routes, I returned to and added a couple of bolts, some I never climbed again. Not sure if the routes have been repeated to be honest.
I am not sure first ascent teams go up with the I am going to put up a hard and dangerous route. Most of us just go up wanting to put up a route we enjoy, find challenging, or just to climb.
I've bolted routes, retro bolted some of my existing routes, and left other alone. I enjoy both trad and sport, the gym might get some use this winter. (Below zero and no ice climbing in Mongolia)
Personally, I don't climb because it's dangerous, I climb because I enjoy it. Sometimes I get scared, sometime I don't. A bad day on the rocks is always better than a good day at work.
Eman
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Sep 23, 2013 - 07:48am PT
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this thread settles it. people really are as#@&%es....
the most significant factor that seperates humans from all the other animals is that we are the only ones who can kill at a distance......
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 23, 2013 - 10:59am PT
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F...you are really cool.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 23, 2013 - 11:17am PT
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F...you didn't seem to comment on these pissing comments.
From John Kelly:
"Fair enough. Go to the Doloris, Loiter Land, Lake Wall, Tetons, Granite Lands, South Plate, I could go on for awhile, if you want around 200 of my contributions that get repeated. Hedges turn..."
"Who is he? All I know is he seems like a complete nut case.... johnkelley"
"Isn't hedge what those penthouse center folds had in the 70's.... johnkelley"
"Get the sac less Hedge to visit your local crag. He'd love to turn the best routes there into bolt ladders for you..."
john kelly
"On Sunday a few friends of mine did a new 14 pitch 5.11+ route in the Mendenhall Towers. Guess what, onsight, no bolts. The oldest of the bunch is 30. I'm pretty sure they don't want it retro bolted. So...what was your contribution to the climbing world anyway? All I've seen is a bunch of crazy ..." John Kelly
"Haha coming from a guy that's scared of a little run out. My contribution, in the last year, is 2 new grade VI routes and 1 grade V done onsight without any fixed gear of any kind, including bolts. We didn't leave anything at all on any of the those routes. What was your contribution to the climbing..."John Kelly
Jim, Hedge has obviously been clipped....John Kelly.
Just a few examples of John debating skills.
Not one of you called him out on his name calling and my dick is bigger than yours comments.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 23, 2013 - 11:36am PT
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Oh there is more from Mr bad ass John Kelly...
"Hedge if you think these retro bolts you propose can't be removed faster then they can be placed you are seriously mislead. Like I sad before, I chop more than I drill and I'm not the only one." John Kelly
"Go for it but good luck getting down. I'm not to worried. Most sac less POS don't chop bolts..." John Kelly
"Kelsey Gay/prezwoods - go eat a bucket of dicks you pathetic retro bolter
John Kelly
"F*#k old timers for bringing us rock gyms and sport climbing. The root of the problem...."
"You won't do sh#t but wine and bitch..."
"I've never chopped my own bolts. I like chopping retro bolts and convience bolts. The most prized bolts to chop are ASCA retro bolts...."
John Kelly seems like a drunk, bitter hillbilly.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 23, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
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You've never played pick up basketball games?
Sh!t talking on court is so funny .....
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 23, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
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Talk about butt hurt...
Hahahahh!!! you guys are a riot.
Bobby- got any more one liners from Kelley?
Always good when you get a good laugh on a Monday morning.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 23, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
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Sounds to me like John Kelly is on fire. Good stuff.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 23, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
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Hahahaha
What's wrong Bolting Bob? Is it that hard to figure out that we don't want everything retrobolted?
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Sep 23, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
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Who is 'we' Capt Alaska?
... and you need to check out how many FAs Bob has put up, right up to the present.
He is one of the few of his generation that continued climbing, not sitting on porch with a potbelly talking about how hard 5.10 slabs were back in the day:
".. and come hell or highwater.... that there slab shalt henceforce never see another bolt!
aye, cuz I doth say so."
(nevermind that no one want to climb slabs, much less run out museum ones)
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 23, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
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I am not sure first ascent teams go up with the I am going to put up a hard and dangerous route. Most of us just go up wanting to put up a route we enjoy, find challenging, or just to climb.
. . .
Personally, I don't climb because it's dangerous, I climb because I enjoy it. Sometimes I get scared, sometime I don't. A bad day on the rocks is always better than a good day at work.
Thank you for stating my own feelings so well, and for a respite from the smack talking. While I've yet to meet Bob D'A in person, I feel like I know him well enough to have a great deal of admiration for him as a person. I know he doesn't need anyone -- and particularly me -- defending him, but I cannot stand silent for the apparent slander I'm reading.
As for the "who has the larger sac" contest, very early on I opined that testosterone poisoning wasn't essential to good climbing. Maybe it's because I'm the father of two daughters, but boldness -- which I value -- knows no gender bounds.
John
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