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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 17, 2015 - 07:25am PT
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I am not anti bolt or pro bolt
I am not pure or trying to claim
Any superior style, safety is
Today's test of what to do to the rock.
S
The modern technology is so good it would
Be a great service to add new bolts to the old ones,
leaving both as an example of progress ?!
while I have banged pins and rail road spikes, taped and (cheated, glued) hooks , tied off placements to secure the direction, tried to lead climbs by all manner of tricks
In the, off grid, lost to memory, places I mostly haunt.
I was in the Gunks as a child with Appies,
Who banged pins in and back out.
I am a proud follower of 'as clean as can be' - or top rope.
Jstn was leading the charge to change things in the '70s? In the Gunks .
By '76? It was very rare to see a hammer, although you sure still heard 'em!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2015 - 05:19pm PT
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The Flaming Blues Hour
9 DBs
Duster Bennett
DB - " I Wonder If You Know (How It Feels)"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HtlCQEJutdQ
DB - “Jumping At Shadows”
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZ-ZdaNfBH4
DB - ‘’Smiling Like I’m Happy”
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hItmFaskeZE
DB - “Bright Lights, Big City”
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kR3MMqTVXoM
DB - “It’s a Man Down There”
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdpUY7_4Sl0
DB - “Just Like a Fish”
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrJlNBOUyHM
DB - “Fresh Country Jam”
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g66XF-YlOqM
DB - “I Want You To Love Me (Love Me Like You Can)”
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCaAcHf9_Wk
DB – “I Wonder, I Wonder” (featuring Peter Green)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vHjLg6YQkU
[Click to View YouTube Video]
First heard of DB at a Mayall concert in Sacramento, 1970.
Bennett was born in Welshpool, Powys, Mid Wales. Emerging in the late 1960s from the art school music scene of Kingston-upon-Thames and Guildford,
Bennett was a one-man blues band with virtuosity and co-ordination on drums, guitar and harmonica.
His live sets combined his own compositions with Jimmy Reed-style blues standards often aided by friends
Peter Green and Top Topham.
He was a session musician in the early 1960s playing harmonica.
Between 1968 and 1970 he was played on John Peel's Top Gear, toured and eventually joined John Mayall's Bluesbreakers
as band member/solo act on a US tour in 1970 (which included Sacramento).
After performing with Memphis Slim on 26 March 1976, Bennett was driving home in a Ford Transit van in Warwickshire
when he apparently fell asleep at the wheel. The van collided with a truck and Bennett was killed.
For decades, a clutch of live and home recordings on Indigo seemed to be all that remained of his work
until the 2006 release of the Complete Blue Horizon Sessions.
--Wikipedia
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2015 - 07:35pm PT
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The NEW NEW MONDAY MORNING WALL BLUES
The blues got me surrounded
And I ain't got a chance
Them blues got me surrounded
And I don't stand a chance
Ain't got me no overcoat
Too many holes in my pants
My rope's had too many falls
And my shoes need new soles
Yeah my rope's held too many falls
And my shoes could use new soles
I stand in that hot hot sun
All day long just drillin' holes
We climbed one pitch today
It was very blank and steep
We did one pitch today
Hot and very blank and steep
My partner just keeps sayin'
Bleep-bleep-bleep and still more bleep
Mama when will this climb end
Will it go and will we send
Mama will this bad-ass end
Will we do it Will we send
Will champagne flow up above
Will you meet me there my love
The blues got me surrounded
And I ain't got a chance
Them blues got me surrounded
And I don't stand a chance
Ain't got me no overcoat
Too many holes in my pants
Come on meet me and we'll dance
--Rocky Trueline on Reachin' For the Sky (Merry Undertakers Music)
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2015 - 09:17pm PT
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Dean has reached the end of his rope, and it's so saddening.
Condolences to all his friends and to his family.And to those close to his partner, GRAHAM HUNT, as well. May he also rest well.
On May 16, 2015, Potter and Graham Hunt were killed while attempting a wingsuit flight from Taft Point above Yosemite Valley.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 18, 2015 - 06:24am PT
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Only text for awhile,
I was finally just able to watch ,
all the way thru - Valley Uprising.
On Saterday night,
how do you spell
Weird creepy
Saterday night.
My best friends six or seven have
Died from spring fever over the years
Now Decades past I think of them
Joe
Eric
Claude
Paul
While I stayed behind
and ran life's race,
So many times over the years as others of high flame have moved along
Shucked off this mortal husk and traded in mortality, for a place in the firmament
I have wondered aloud
Why God ?
And never a good answer
From her surly breast,
( my auto correct won't spell Bujumbura no bus um, if you get that)
Past reflection on extremes - pull up short at forty years of age!
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa y Perrito Ruby
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May 18, 2015 - 07:52am PT
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Condolences to all the Hunt and Potter tribe and especially to Jennifer.
I never met him, but he was one I would have enjoyed talking to.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa y Perrito Ruby
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May 18, 2015 - 08:11am PT
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I never win any of these, but is the AM analog of the gloaming, the crack of dawn? I know it's not the FM analog.
These folks aren't much help on this one, unless maybe you're multilingual. Thugamar Féin An Samhradh Linn is a traditional Irish tune sung on May Day (Lá Bealtaine)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Gaeilge (Irish)
Bábóg na Bealtaine, maighdean an tSamhraidh,
Suas gach cnoc is síos gach gleann,
Cailíní maiseacha bán-gheala gléasta,
Thugamar féin an samhradh linn.Samhradh, samhradh, bainne na ngamhna,
Thugamar féin an samhradh linn.
Samhradh buí na nóinín glégeal,
Thugamar féin an samhradh linn.Thugamar linn é ón gcoill chraobhaigh,
Thugamar féin an samhradh linn.
Samhradh buí ó luí na gréine,
Thugamar féin an samhradh linn.
Samhradh, samhradh, bainne na ngamhna,
Thugamar féin an samhradh linn.
Samhradh buí na nóinín glégeal,
Thugamar féin an samhradh linn.
Tá an fhuiseog ag seinm ‘sag luascadh sna spéartha,
Áthas do lá is bláth ar chrann.
Tá an chuach is an fhuiseog ag seinm le pléisiúr,
Thugamar féin an samhradh linn.
Samhradh, samhradh, bainne na ngamhna,
Thugamar féin an samhradh linn.
Samhradh buí na nóinín glégeal,
Thugamar féin an samhradh linn.
Foghraíocht (Phonetics)
Baw-bog na Bal-tin-a, my-jin on Tau-ree
Soo-us gokh kruk iss she-os gokh glan,
Col-yeen-ee my-shokh go gyal-guy-rokh glayas-ta,
Hug-a-mar hayn on Sau-roo lin.Sa-u-roo, Sau-roo, bon-ya na nyow-na,
Hug-a-mar hayn on Sau-roo lin.
Sa-u-roo bwee na no-ih-neen glay-gyal,
Hug-a-mar hayn on Sau-roo lin.Hug-a-mar lin ay oo-n gill khreev-ee,
Hug-a-mar hayn on Sau-roo lin.
Sa-u-roo bwee o lee na grayn-ya,
Hug-a-mar hayn on Sau-roo lin.
Sa-u-roo, Sau-roo, bon-ya na nyow-na,
Hug-a-mar hayn on Sau-roo lin.
Sa-u-roo bwe-e na no-ih-neen glay-gyal,
Hug-a-mar hayn on Sau-roo lin.
Taw on ish-yog eg shen-yim seg loos-coo sna spayr-ha,
Aw-hus duh law iss bl-aw air khran.
Taw on khooikh iss on ish-yog eg shen-yim le play-zhure,
Hug-a-mar hayn on Sau-roo lin.
Sa-u-roo, Sau-roo, bon-ya na nyow-na,
Hug-a-mar hayn on Sau-roo lin.
Sa-u-roo bwe-e na no-ih-neen glay-gyal,
Hug-a-mar hayn on Sau-roo lin.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa y Perrito Ruby
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May 18, 2015 - 08:29am PT
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Queens of The Stone Age - Outlaw Blues
Dedicated to Whisper
[Click to View YouTube Video]
"I can't speak for Dean, but I can say that if I were in his position—knowing that I had done the best that I could do and my motives were pure and my execution was pure in the highest style—if other people choose to misinterpret what I've done, that's their business," he says. "I don't have to bow down and apologize for doing what I did just because you have an opinion that's counter to it." - Eric Perlman
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa y Perrito Ruby
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May 18, 2015 - 08:43am PT
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I think Whisper was safe, but he still he looks scared.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Max on the other hand is diggin' it
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feralfae
Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
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May 18, 2015 - 09:01am PT
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zB:
translation, first verse: (Translate Google does a good job with many languages. And there is babel fish, etc.)
May Doll, Summer virgin,
Up hill and down every valley,
Beautiful girls Graceful white-dressed,
We brought the summer linn.Samhradh, summer, the calves milk,
We brought the summer with us.
Daisy yellow summer of brightly lit,
We brought the summer we linn.Thugamar from branching wood,
We brought the summer with us.
Summer of sunset yellow,
We brought the summer with us.
Summer, summer, the calves milk,
We brought the summer with us.
Daisy yellow summer of brightly lit,
We brought the summer with us.
The lark playing 'sag swinging in the skies,
Pleased to day flower tree.
The cuckoo is the lark is singing with joy,
We brought the summer with us.
Summer, summer, the calves milk,
We brought the summer with us.
Daisy yellow summer of brightly lit,
We brought the summer with us.
Thank you zB, it's a beautiful piece.
ff
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa y Perrito Ruby
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May 18, 2015 - 10:19am PT
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thanks, ff
The page where I found the lyrics had an English cut, but I was curious to see if we had any language gurus looking in :)
So as we say, no further ado
Béarla (English)
Mayday doll, maiden of Summer
Up every hill and down every glen,
Beautiful girls, radiant and shining,
We have brought the Summer in.
Summer, Summer, milk of the calves,
We have brought the Summer in.
Yellow summer of clear bright daisies,
We have brought the Summer in.
We brought it in from the leafy woods,
We have brought the Summer in.
Yellow Summer from the time of the sunset,
We have brought the Summer in.
Summer, Summer, milk of the calves,
We have brought the Summer in.
Yellow summer of clear bright daisies,
We have brought the Summer in.
The lark is singing and swinging around in the skies,
Joy for the dat and the flower on the trees.
The cuckoo and the lark are singing with pleasure,
We have brought the Summer in.
Summer, Summer, milk of the calves,
We have brought the Summer in.
Yellow summer of clear bright daisies,
We have brought the Summer in.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa y Perrito Ruby
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May 18, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
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Hi neebee:
Here's an Ironwood Michigan photo of my mom from the early twenties taken on the family farm.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2015 - 01:23pm PT
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Climbing the Needles of Kern.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4TNXMNq3_No
Watching climbing on the Needles of Kern.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WuVupjb28k
neebee needs to watch these! We were there about ten days ago visitin' the Warlock and Don Juan Wall, courtesy of Google Earth and the MI doppler radar weather map.
Or maybe north of east.
Welcome to witches and warlocks country.
You should go at least once to this special place.
The lichen grows greener (more yellow than green, actually) on the Westside.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2015 - 08:29pm PT
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Ball Putterfield & Rick Danko / "Crazy Mama"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaPLumKkcH4
Okay, I did Steve Cropper on The What Song thread, followed by PBBB playin' Nut Popper. I sure don't have any oper-a Jones this evening.
Classical might be nice. Just the thing we need.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
The Opera Stopper would be when the Fat Lady sings, right?
And for topper, when my brother and I were in the sixth grade and the eighth grade we deliberately went around the who-o-ole of the La Sierra district in Sacramento, littering the driveways, lawns, and porches with The Suburban Shopper.
Forget about Cyndi Lauper, you say? I think of her from time to time.
The Fun Girl is now 61, if you were a fan, or something more back in the 80s in your lycra Spandex climbing outfit with the Walkman playin' your She's So Unusual tape.
"Now, that's a Whopper, Junior!"
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 18, 2015 - 08:44pm PT
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hey there say, zbrown... WOW and thank you very kindly... say, i will privately, please, also, share it with my twin buddies... they had horses, since they were little tiny twins, :))
also, yes, wow, mouse, i will go take a look... got a few things to catch up on, as, i was babysitting this weekend... but, hope i can for tomorrow...
liked the language shares, too! to zbrown and feralfae...
:)
and the memorial thoughts, as to dean potter, and the pupdog thoughts...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2015 - 06:26am PT
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Feesh on a Taco? Ai! Mariscos! Por favor, no te dije, Mami!
TALKING FISHING BLUES
Words and Music by Woody Guthrie
I went down to the fishing hole,
And I set down with my fishing pole;
Somethin' grabb'd my hook and it got my bait
And Jerked me out in the middle of the lake.
Huh it was some jump boy,
I got sunk, kinda baptized on credit.
Fishin' down on th' muddy bank,
Felt a pull an' give a big yank,
I drug out three old rubber boots,
A Ford radiator an' a Chevrolet coop
(Nothin' but Junk, so I handed it in
For National Defence).
Settin' in a boat with a bucket of beer,
Hadn't caught nuthin' but didn't much care,
I guess I was pretty well satisfied,
Had my little woman right by my side
(Takin' it easy, just waitin'
Worm been gone off-a that hook for a couple of hours.
I was busy).
When you go fishin', tell y' what to do,
Go set down by the grassy dew,
Take a piece of string, tie it on yo' pole,
Throw it way out in th' middle of th' hole.
Find you a good shady tree and then just set down.
(Go to sleep, forget all about it
Can't catch nuthin' here anyways.)
Well I walked out to a sandy bar,
And I caught myself a big alligator gar,
Drug him home across my back,
Tail was dragging a mile and a half,
Flippin' an' floppin'. I sold him for a quarter.
(Shot craps, got in Jall.)
Jumped in the river and went down deep,
There was a hundred pound cat-fish lying there asleep,
Well I jumped on his back and rode him all aroun'
Saddled him up and I came into town.
People came runnin', lookin', dogs a-barkin'
(Kids a-squallin').
Early one mornin' I took me a notion,
To go out fishin' in the middle of the ocean,
Well, throwed me a line, I got me a shark,
I didn't get him home till way past dark.
(Was he a man-eater, tough customer.
But he wasn't quite tough enough.)
Late last night I had me a dream,
I was out fishin' in a whiskey stream,
Baited my hook with apple-jack,
Threw out a drink, drug a gallon back.
(Done pretty good till the creek run dry.
I give the fish back to the finance company.)
[Click to View YouTube Video]I don't know Jack Elliott.
I never met Jack Kerouac, neither.
Two ramblers came through the other day. One guy was named Nash and caried a Burmese cat on his shoulder.
The other guy said he was called Hudson, after the car, not the explorer or the bay in Canada. He also claimed he was from Paramus, knew Jersey pretty well, and Springsteen's ghost songwriter was his downstairs neighbor and had a cell phone that used to belong to The Boss.
Well, we were sittin' thinkin', wishin' there was somethin' we could do or say to be kind to others without fail, time after time, true blue and always reddy to help, thereby magnifying the Lord, like the Blessed Ma back in Galilee, and unlike old Stacker Leigh, the older fella that was always the Rams fan but was wed to a gal who was a 49-er Faithful named Marianne.
Old boy died the other day. He and I stacked so many steel drum shells in ten years workin' in the barrel plant that we both took the job home and dreamed of barrel shells on the conveyors heading down the line, getting value added at each stop, then packed into trailers and shipped off to the chem companies, the refineries, and the tomato paste makers and processors of other fruits.
How many of those barrels were used for cookin' up Palillo Stew? That's one thing about which I'm wonderin'.
Anyway, here's to old Leigh the Shell Stacker, who's made his last bet on Sunday football, left a nice black 'Vette for the widow, plus that old Pontiac coupe he loved to drive, almost like Millis' old, old ride.
Leigh's last name began with an "A" and his initials were the main reason for suppoerin' the LA team. He absolutely didn't care they moved to the Midwest, since he never went to any games.
Plus, he loved to give the wife some grief over her own passion for the SF-ers. And to rub it in on Mondays following a loss.
Hope you get a great seat in the celestial stadium, LA, and all the coffee you can drink--LA never drank alcoholic beverages in all the time I knew him. And his phone number was an easy one to remember, ending in 1492, the one historical date, besides July 5th and 4th (Cuckoo Day and 4th of July) which most people recall with no trouble.
Ramblin' Jack Elliott / "Riding Down Canyon"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fd9ownDYNEc
Ramblin' Jack Elliott / "Cup of coffee"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKfiZHRQ168
"Want some pie with that coffee, Jack? It's fresh MooseTurd Pie, made it myself. It's good, though!"
IF you have ever drove trucks they sometimes have a unit called a Power Take-Off. We had 'em on the flatbeds we used contracting small jobs for the Ventura oil leases. They were PTOs, or "pitos." Sounds like Cheetos.
It was 1972, though, not 1962.
Tricky Dick was tryin' to get re-elected president, the creep.
I was tryin' to learn surfin' and to teach my brother-in-law Ike to climb.
And over the summer, thousands of high school grads spent one final night cruisin' the strip with their buddies before they went off to college, thereby hopin' to beat the draft, or else just cruisin' and waitin' for "the greetin'" from our Uncle Sam.
Some got lucky and some didn't. Blame it on the finger of Fate, whose most characteristic trait seems to be fickleness.
One day Fate might roll up in a blue Plymouth.
Another day Fate runs you over with a Budweiser delivery truck: that was my pal Zoe's dream. She died from cancer instead, but she had a good ride.
Martin Luther King, Jr., had a dream. But then he died.
Bob had at least 119 dreams.
Scipio Africanus had him a doozy of a dream, Somnium Scipionis, which made him rich and famous and powerful.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Somnium_Scipionis
I have had no sleep the last two days, *sigh*, other than a short nod-off yesterday before dawn. And it's gettin' near dawn, *yawn*, so I'll go a-roamin' in the mornin' gloamin', gloomin' and fumin' over zees, or, rather, the lack of them.
Zorro has probably gone to bed by now, the lucky hombre.
I got some stuff done here at the Mouse Pad yesterday. I moved the computer down off the table and onto the floor next to my small bookshelf and turned the old double drop-leaf ninety degrees.
I now face the wall, not the window, so it's easier to see the monitor--no glare from the sunshine, see? And this created a tad more space; plus, I get to look at my "wall." These shots may be a reprise for some who are long-time flame-watchers, but they are not the same ones I have posted. I made these last night.
That postcard is from Great Falls, Montucky, and was sent by ff-stop Fitzgerald.
Two neebee paintings on this wall, and three handmade cards, and two dream catchers. Um, make that three of them.
And with the birds in the mornings, we usually have a stream of homeless men coming from the Rescue Misssion and going to the next hang, wherever that may be.
My friend Tommy was by the other day, neebee, the one who located Sophie with the upside-down smile. He is Leigh's brother, half-brother by the same mom, one of thirteen kids, would you look at the population rising as we speak.
It is no surprise, then, that wherever we go together, he ALWAYS runs into a relative. His sister owns a ranch in Mariposa and he's been spending time there, but he just found some work here in town. I forget what he said he'd be doing.
He was forced out of the rental hang he had for some years recently, so he's been welcome to come up and shower here when he must.
This song is so old it was a perennial on KSAN-FM underground radio in SF in the 60s. It references a blue Plymouth, in case anyone was wonderin' where that came from.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Ramble Tamble time.[Click to View YouTube Video]Cosmo's Factory, 5th St. near Gilman St., BeYerkLee.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa y Perrito Ruby
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May 19, 2015 - 07:09am PT
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Space Cowboys you say? Can't live with 'em, can't live without 'em (in the USA).
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Otis Redding, Birdsong, Wilson, Boykin, Rush, Taylor, Sudeikis, Thorpe, Clay, Davis, Spann
But c'mon Otis Elevator?
OTIS DAY
do James and Johnny Otis count?
[Click to View YouTube Video]
This one didn't get the airplay that hand jive did. (song by 'Cleanhead' Vinson)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Getting back to those cowboys
buyer beware claws
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 19, 2015 - 08:33am PT
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I extended my youth beyond all know proportion
To include the dreams of women and men who if they
Could have they would have
Given that chance I sailed and climbed and walked and skied
But never flew,
the next generation was just starting to
A Tibbits , and Golden boy! Alex , ?something, two teens from Philly
top climbers,in ?'84 were early victims - first dropped by the 2 to 1 glide ratio...
J Bouchard was our climbing God and Wild things our Fish.
So we gave our selves to his prototype kite/chutes.
The first of the hard jumps were all most all
By European climbers before John Bouchard from New Hampshire
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