STONEY POINT

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spenchur

climber

oak park

Mar 8, 2011 - 04:21pm PT

about 3 years ago i fractured both ankles after a foothold crumbled under me reaching for the top on the right exit of bootflake. spun around 180degrees, both ankles rolled inward when i hit (and fully bottomed out) some dudes brand spankin new triple fold mad pad (pieces of shit). luckily my friend had a healthy supply of beer and bowls waiting for me in the car after carrying my ass directly up the hill.

the topper to the whole story...i was 18 when it happened and while driving home to puff the pain away i called my dad to tell him what happened and see what his opinion on first action was. He used to climb so he knew the part where i had fallen.

"Dad i think i just broke both my ankles..."
"oh shit! how did you do that?"
"i fell off the top of boot flake."
"what? why? thats the easy part!"

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2011 - 11:53am PT

Nice pic of the DMeathead Matty.

FRUMY

Trad climber

SHERMAN OAKS,CA

Mar 9, 2011 - 02:39pm PT

Spenchur good story. Hope all is well with the ankles.
Sorry I could not make it out yesterday. I was to sick, but will make it out on thur. sick or not.
Sol & Molly were covered with ticks after our walk on Monday morning. Their season at stoney is over for awhile. First ticks then foxtails.

G_Gnome

Trad climber

In the mountains... somewhere...

Mar 9, 2011 - 03:26pm PT

Hey, don't come to Stoney and get the rest of us sick! Stay away until you are better. Keesee already got everyone sick once this year...

matty

Trad climber

under the sea

Mar 9, 2011 - 05:07pm PT

It's OK Mark, I knew you probably wouldn't show so I brought my hat to make everyone feel at home =)

On the down side I hurt my shoulder last Monday and after yesterday it's clear that I need more rest (probably a few weeks). Hope to see you all soon-

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2011 - 05:33pm PT

matty do some push-up's! i'm going to start so that my shoulder doesn't get crappy too!

thank's g_gnome for the push up advice!

Spencer i wish my dad new a thing or two about Stoney point boulder problems. Keep Crank'n!

FRUMY

Trad climber

SHERMAN OAKS,CA

Mar 9, 2011 - 05:37pm PT

No problem G_Gnome I was one of them. I won't do it to anyone else.
Thanks matty I feeling better knowing something got done in proper attire.
Take good care of that shoulder matty.

matty

Trad climber

under the sea

Mar 9, 2011 - 06:28pm PT

Yeah, I talked with the shoulder pro-keesee and Jan yesterday. I think pushups would be too much right now. I was doing pushups before I husrt myself. Was doing two sets of 25 no problem. I plan on doing no shoulder exercise this week until the pain goes away. Then I will start some light rotator cuff exercises. I'm thinking about seeing a doctor if it don't clear up quick. It's really frustrating because I hurt it last monday trying to do some rubberband work for that shoulder, but had bad technique or used to much resistance. I wish I could say I hurt it climbing. Hopefully it will heal without further problems and I'll be back training in a few weeks.

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2011 - 12:05pm PT

matty it sounds like your crank'n and training hard.

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Mar 10, 2011 - 12:36pm PT

Yo Matty if you decide to see a doc email me I'll give you the beta.

matty

Trad climber

under the sea

Mar 10, 2011 - 03:47pm PT

Thanks Kris, I'll let you know if I do. I was rereading the earlier threads here about shoulder problems and saw your gnarly shoulder rip photo. I iced my shoulder every hour or two last night and slept on my back with a pillow under my right elbow to take any pressure off my shoulder. Work up this morning and did not feel any pain as I slowly moved my shoulder through it's range of motion (never pushing or stretching it) so that was nice. It's halfway through the day now and I've been writing on the whiteboard all day so my shoulder has been moving a lot. I can feel a little bit of pain but it is dull and very light (1 or 2 out of 10) and only in certain positions. So I'm happy to see improvement that fast.

Thanks Pyro- I have been training hard - for ASTROMAN this fall!!! Hope this shoulder clears up so I can get back on the rock.

FRUMY

Trad climber

SHERMAN OAKS,CA

Mar 11, 2011 - 11:24am PT

Matty hope your doing well. Missed you yesterday at the point.
What a nice day & evening. Really good group of people yesterday.

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Mar 11, 2011 - 02:13pm PT

Hey Matty. Hope yer doing okay. I would way rather give you Astroman beta than bad shoulder beta...

matty

Trad climber

under the sea

Mar 11, 2011 - 03:48pm PT

Miss u guys too! I was visiting with gregg and allison yesterday. Had a lil jam session with their band. I don't feel anything in my shoulder today (yet) so that's good!

Kris- we've talked astroman before and I'm sure we will again, hopefully this summer when we replace west side story etc...! I'll bring my D5 hammer, that would be it's first use!

Fat Dad

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Mar 11, 2011 - 05:09pm PT

hopefully this summer when we replace west side story etc..

You guys are replacing the bolts on West Side Story? That would be some serious motivation to climb off the couch. Freaking amazing looking route.

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Mar 11, 2011 - 05:18pm PT

Greg Barnes, ASCA, gave me a big stash of bolts, hangers, drill bits etc., to be used replacing old hardware at The Needles. The list is long.

Pyro and I replaced the Dome Rock mega classic Saucer Full of Secrets if you want to tune up on something a bit spicy but way easier than West Side Story... Also Pipe Dreams and Carsonogenic are new. And I replaced the anchors on Don Juan Walls upper pitches. Man those were sketch.

All of those west face Magician Routes are amazing. Matty, good to hear you are down for some manual labor.