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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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F*#k, you guys are having waaayyyy too much fun out there!
I'm coming...soon!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Likewise mucci, next time we'll hang out by the fire a little longer. You guys and gal sure know how to have fun out there.!
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kev
climber
CA
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Nate,
Life's been crazy - I'll email you tomorrow....
The name comes from Sean's route and the anchors we originally placed (before they were bolted/pinned.) When you climb it you'll understand - not so happy. We're calling it 5.8 if you don't link to The Art of Life and 5.9 if you do. Might be a little sand on the route if you get my drift :)
kev
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Tork,
A Touch of Gray, contrary to what the name suggests, is not at Gray Eagle, but at LE. 1 80' pitch, but if you had a 70m rope, and continued up thru p.2 of Fill in the Blank, you could go all the way to the top of the dome in one long pitch.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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We went up Friday to LE and did Funnel Runnel, the route to the right of it and Tales from The Wadi again. Then We tried to find a way up the face of The Matterhorn...Only to find out that it gets really tough......like .12c or something. Downclimbed rather than leaving a biner. Dumb. Great day out though. The Pools are worth the trip alone. Had the place to ourselves. Thanks agian for showing us the place.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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You betcha, micronut. So you didn't find The Yodeler Indirect 5.9 on the Matterhorn? All trad to the right shoulder.
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Micro - Yup, the Matterhorn route you got on was "Summit Fever" 12 b or c. Still needs a second ascent I believe.
Great to see everyone out at Grey last weekend! Tork glad you finished the first pitch on your route. Looking forward to trying it.
I finished the work on my route but am having trouble finding a partner for Saturday. First pitch is 5.11 then some 5.10 pitches and easier to the top. I would like to lead all the pitches for the FA.
If anyone wants to come up and climb I could sure use a partner. If 5.11 is too hard you can always jug through the short crux sections.
My email - didgeridoings@aol.com
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Thanks for setting me straight Nate!
Grahm, would love to hook up on your route but this weekend wont work. I will need a partner for next though. Also, can you send me a topo of 40 Miles of Rough Road on Gray?
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Thanks guys,
Unfortunetly, next weekend won't work for me. We are organizing the 10th and final year of JT Didge Fest. If your a didgeridoo lover come on out and get some climbing and jammin in.
http://www.jtdidgefest.com
I left Hans a message, John and Sue graciously offered to join up so one way or another its getting done! woohoo!
Heres the beta on Urmas's route Tork. Can you please send me the info on your lines at Gray?
11a - 40 Miles Of Bad Road - (in memory of Dennis Yates) 5 pitches - Gear to 4.5", bolts -
P1 11a Follow a right trending crack / ramp to 3 bolts and a roof. Climb out the left side of the roof and back right to two bolt anchor.
P2 10a Climb up on gear and then through 4 bolts to a two bolt anchor.
P3 5.9 Use wider gear to climb along a unique water groove to a small roof and then one bolt to a 2 bolt anchor.
P4 5.7 Climb up a dihedral and then easy 5th to the top.
FA: Urmas Franosch and Hunter Sibbald
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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I might be tempted to go up Sunday...
I'll be up at the Balls on Sunday if you'd want to come join us JR. Camping in Bowler, getting a lazy start, then i'd like to get some time in on a proj i've been looking at for the last 2-ish years
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Any of you guys know if the following sweet crack has been climbed up at Lost Eagle.
Its on the "Bonus Wall." Left of the Matterhorn. Its the sweet looking finger crack on a golden wall, prolly 40 feet high. Uphill from Book Ends, but before you get to the "Cave" around the corner. I assume its been done, but you know what happens when you ass u me. Are there anchors on top that are easily accessible for a top rope?
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kev
climber
CA
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Yes please do tell all about said crack...It could be a Sunday project if it hasn't gone yet :)
Odds are 50/50 on me being at LE on Sunday. Gray for Sat and either gray or LE on sunday. I'll be up there for about a week and a half starting late next week - can't wait
kev
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Grahm could confirm, but I'm pretty sure his TR line "Double Bonus" 5.11c goes up thereabouts, although I don't think the description mentions the crack. This is based on his photo topo, which he can post up, when he sees this and if inclined. Looked to me like, with all the plates and edges on the upper half, it's more easily climbed as a face climb than a pure crack climb. But it could be a cool shorty trad lead if it takes gear. Grahm?
OH, and it's not on the topo yet, but worth mentioning that Roger recently climbed a short steep handcrack a bit right of Book Ends, and left of Garudas in Bermudas, which went at roughly 5.11a just off the deck and then easing up. Called it The Hardmouse Stem, due to the mouse living within, which exhibited excellent stemming skills.
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Stemming mice? Rad! I also love how squirrels and lizards make us climbers look so lame as they free solo across smooth rock. As if thats enough the lizards will stop and pump out a few push ups as if to say "what?! you want some of this punk?"
Did all these back is sept, 07. Was thinking about leading them but didn't think they were worth the cost of more bolts. Have at em if your interested. B will probably need a bolt or two before you can plug some gear in.
A. 11c - Bonus - 10m - 2 Bolt Anchor - Toprope - Climb the big yet funky to use flakes to two shallow horizontal seams. Moving left at the top makes for an easier finish.
B. 11c - Double Bonus - 12m - 2 Bolt Anchor - Toprope - Fantastic line with hard moves down low to enjoyable face and seam climbing higher.
C. 12b - Triple Bonus - 15m - 2 Bolt Anchor - Toprope - Climb up the arete and move left off the lower block. Puzzling small face features and off balance moves lead to bigger holds and the top.
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Aug 10, 2009 - 11:00am PT
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Speaking of 'Garudas In Bermudas', has anyone else done that line other than me and Roger? Still thinking it goes .10d/.11a....need some folks to check it out. Will be up there Labor Day weekend (hopefully with nice cool temps to get on the sharp end to do 'A Touch Of Gray') to get some hang time with the Shuteye crew.
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Setageus
Trad climber
East Bay San Fransisco
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Aug 10, 2009 - 11:23am PT
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Hi Mooch,
All we've done at LE yet is Burrito Bandito, Prolly Bomber, Seek and Ye Shall Find, If Found Please Call, Tales from The Wadi, Touch of Gray, and something not in the guide that's bolted and just left of Gold Buttress. Need to go back and get the last two finished. The Melting Wall is full of classics.
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Aug 10, 2009 - 11:29am PT
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Try Power to the People, Let it Bleed and Dazzed Vizzzion.
All good to do in cooler temps! And classics in their own right.
Oh and then there is WingMan.
Remember I tried Garudas Davey. No doubt with some time off and shoulder healing, I'll have to give it another go!!
Cooler temps rock!!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Aug 10, 2009 - 12:19pm PT
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So sad it's curtains for the didgefest. Was hoping somebody would step up and take it over.
Dude's, I'd climb Southern Yosemite and do the didgefest at night. What a sweet combination that would be
http://www.jtdidgefest.com
PEace
karl
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Aug 10, 2009 - 12:30pm PT
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S -
Wondering if you were on 'Five Amigos'(.10c/d).... steep face climb, passing two bolts to a fist/hand crack above which leads to easier terrain.
Here's yours truly whining his way during the FA of Five Amigos...
Then again, you could be talking about the bolts on the vary FAR end of the Gray Slab (near a deep slot, next to the Gold Buttress). That would be Grahm's line leading up to the arete route.
Tiki-
Charlotte Dome went off without a hitch. Sweet route.....that South Face is a true classic. Rock is very similar to Courtright! Mrs. Mooch and I did the route in a little under 7 hours.....simul'd the first 5 pitches. Photo TR to follow soon. Check out the Lost Boys Flikr account. The return hike out to Onion Valley blew chunks though :/
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 10, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
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Weekend report to come soon (tonight or tomorrow).
Karl,
Check your link - it's on this year. Talked to Graham Sat he's there (he runs a didgee shop)
kev
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