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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Bolted anchors just at the top or additional bolts and hangers on the actual climb?
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jstan
climber
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I don't know who took that photo. The original picture was taken by Hallam Murray who was at MIT. Don Morton from Princeton volunteered for the unpleasant task of seconding.
Hal led my first climb at the Gunks. I was one of four newbies he was leading up Hawk. At the time I thought his decision to park four newbies on a ledge six feet long by three inches deep, odd. But now I suppose he was trying to find out if there was anyone with talent in the group. When we started to act up on that three inch deep belay ledge he mused,
"Be careful now. You too can be replaced by a nonlinear servomechanism."
It must have been evident to him not one of us possessed ability.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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John was Hawk your first climb ever, or just your first at the Gunks? I remember Hal--also one of the first people I climbed with at the Gunks with the IOCA crew.
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jstan
climber
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Al:
In 59-60 an unusual number of climbers condensed on Chicago. Rich Goldstone was even in the same dorm with me. Just about every person I was to meet later in life was also there, it seems. Before Hawk I did a couple TR routes at the Lake. That Baraboo quartzite struck me as being a substance with unequalled Rockwell hardness.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Appreciating the commentary
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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On the Throne, maybe 1983. Not to be a jerk but 5.12 was established in the Gunks in the early 70's and the place has been pretty much stagnant for years.
John Okner, you do understand that bolted anchors especially in the Gunks preserved the integrity of many trees?
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Wow John, I never realized that you, too, started at D.L.!!! Yep, not much rock is harder than Baraboo quartzite and it sure has been a 'teacher' of many a great climber over the years.
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jstan
climber
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I belayed Wunsch on Supercrack and up to 74 I got a chance to see Goldstone, Bragg and Romano in action. I thought that a pretty potent crew.
An idea though. If you insist on no prior inspection on a top rope, hanging around on steep nearly holdless rock to get small pieces of protection, the difficulty rises exponentially. In that case to continue the historical experience in development, you just about have to do without the protection. There the inadvisability of taking long falls in the Gunks begins to weigh on one. You aren't climbing on smooth 80 degree slabs. There are sharp edges everywhere.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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"Plus It's a 5 minute walk off. "
Really...climbed before you were born little guy.
"Leave it to Bob aka the Lorax to defend the bolts."
WTF John...got issues.
Grow up. the freaking car you drive does way more impact then two bolts on a rock wall.
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jstan
climber
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I first spotted the line of No Exit while climbing with Howie Davis. I thought the route would make a very nice first ascent for him. So I left it for him to do. When he never got the chance to go back and do it, I named it "No Exit."
There really had been no exit.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Not crying about trees and what road are you talking about? You have an opinion and I'm trying to tell you a fact.
The Fall
"t's not about impact it's about history and respect of original ascents.
little guy lmao!!!
Well then you just might to ask JS, JMac and the land owners about that...you have an opinion you spoke it. As to the little guy comment what with your Lorax comment?
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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No I don't, must not been that big of deal to me, just like climbing.
Thanks for the concern and back at you. :-)
Do you volunteer your time to the trust to do trail work or gear replacement?
Speaking of Howie, really miss him, like a big brother to me. Here he is following Topnotch 5.11c in RMNP.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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John...I have climbed at Millbrook...What is your point?
Looks like Project X
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Kevin Bein on Supercrack. A shining star he was.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 20, 2018 - 09:11pm PT
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PROUD LITTLE GUY,
Screaming into the wind!
Alright you two stfu!
1st, I was Friends & climbed a lot with both Kevin & Mike!
The day before they flew to Europe,KB & I spent his last afternoon/evening,till past dark, At the ubber,(Still haunts me) & Mike, carried be out slung over his shoulder, like a sad, torn sack of 'tatters, (I had auger'd in, sticking the landing, exploded my heels)
So, Its great to see those 2 pix,together, thnx
Bob, I luv ya mhan, but come on??!
This has nothing to do with conservation!
What J okner says is truth
you Should stand for more adherence to maintaining some things,
like the -Bastion of Traditional Clean climbing- this is not Shickashiny or Tillberry!
The climbing above the lake is some of the
best DWS climbs . . .Traverses
once every 20 years or so the comer/center chimney gets blue!
The lower angle lichen covered face freezes much more often.
There was a lot of back & forth with climbers. People were climbing, opening grades,
If you wanted to bolt climbs, you left.
Everybody left, & look what they let happen/talkrd into so to make coin from sitting on a rock.
Bob You are one of the hardest working people I have ever met,
this should stir some resentment in you, they get like $500.00 a day plus tip? for sitting on a rock.
& Still no protection on many hard routes? Id be happier to see that,
then Top ropes, wrecking, polishing, all time historic classics likes of foops!
They deserve to be made to clean up that mess! every time,(not be allowed to leave an "attractive nuisance",fix'd & hanging)
When we sent, you solo'd off or jumped back off, or rapp'd off on that scary, stuff'd, wrapped tat!
Now they dont climb past the crux,
Fixed nut for gumby trys they do not climb
Foops, they get hauled up! those are top rope convenience bolts & are an abomination! RRRr really a terrible development at the lake
It goes beyond saying that while bolting over my childhood they have wrecked the place. All to make a buck.
While I cleaned & wire brushed; I regret not bolting
EVERY THING I TOP ROPED (@least Anchors,as noted, that rock is hard)
Now this puts the patina on things
MH2, (A Cairns) photo
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=3081029&tn=0
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jul 26, 2018 - 12:49pm PT
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Sneaky move to add a bump, so more eyes might see it & weep a bit, Oh' where youth has flown
[Click to View YouTube Video]
oh man are those young kids really us?
Opening scene is Scott F, Probably Cyberentic wall
then further in,
on the belay,for Rich G's Foops, is Paul Hubb(rip)
Al D, in the rugby shirt,(here & later 2:59) The Sting, at the Trapps
I cant tell who the 2-3 others are, and don't want to guess
I think it is all from Double & Triple, (but maybe @3:43 Birdcage, in the Nears?)5:50 The Sting again
But for sure, At the end,starting around 8:00 min, in,
Is James Munson who we all called Jimmy or Jim.
Jimmy & Richie R, the two of them together and individually changed the top end in big ways.
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Oldfattradguy2
Trad climber
Here and there
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Jul 26, 2018 - 07:30pm PT
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He used whatever part of his body he needed to, including one that almost resulted in a rescue because its use resulted in some rather loud screams and moans from a female partner on a ledge......
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jul 26, 2018 - 07:52pm PT
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right,wow ! no talking old school out of school! - but still!!
pretty cool to see , I was guessing Morris H in red?, who had a Jfro/
anyone else ?
(it dosent look like, 'Howey' D, or Jordan M @4:00,no way to tell who is in blue,belaying @4:03)
1st I don't have book so I cant spell, Mike C/Seacaca, or Sawickey ? I shouldn't try. Any guess, FTdadII ?
!Wow, remember those guys, some wild wild times !!
The little trip haha!, like I was saying, no talking out, scole!another
nickname,
Social climber, Yazoo Ms
Jul 26, 2018 - 11:29am PT
Following LSD party at Split Rock: In New Paltz
As he approached the village, he met a number of people, but none whom he knew, which somewhat surprised him, for he had thought himself acquainted with every one in the country round. Their dress, too, was of a different fashion from that to which he was accustomed. They all stared at him with equal marks of surprise, and whenever they cast eyes upon him, invariably stroked their chins. The constant recurrence of this gesture, induced Rip, involuntarily, to do, the same, when, to his astonishment, he found his beard had grown a foot long!
that had been posted here after I posted the video, and /i switched places, kinda bad form, so thanks for that share.
For some the question is always Why, for some the answer is always why not?
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jstan
climber
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Jul 26, 2018 - 08:02pm PT
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Been 51 years now. More and more life seems to be a process in which we reach blindly into a sack of goodies, but are limited to pulling out only one thing at a time.
And you never know what you are going to get.
Edit:
Andy:
What did the post say? Have no idea. My connection seems to work now so it may be something from long ago.
edit2:
And you never know what you are going to get.
That's weird.
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