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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Sep 29, 2015 - 10:17am PT
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Vitaliy - Those are some amazingly enticing photos!! That's an impressive amount of rock in some of those photos. Have yet to get down there (So much great climbing, Yosemite etc., that must be passed up headed south from Tahoe to get there) but those photos just bumped it a bunch of notches higher on the to do list.
Back to Northern Nevada - It's looking more promising that Nancy and I will be able to stop by the ER Fest and campout for at least one of the nights (maybe more depending on how motivated we get for my nearby climbing/exploring project) on our way to our primary objective of the weekend.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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Ron says "No.."
Laine will probably come.
Ty has other obligations.
I'm sure if anyone else wants to join in, you can get directions from one of us.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Sep 30, 2015 - 06:40am PT
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Don't really post here much any more but this sounds interesting. What part of Nevada?
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Sep 30, 2015 - 07:43am PT
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Monday was a nice day to go climbing at
the Egyption Ridge area. Rick was ready
to test the carpal tunnel surgery, and I had
recruited another rope gun - Emily. Left
Woodfords at 7:15, met Rick at the McDonalds
in Fernley at 9:00, made it to the Selenites
around 10:15. We decided to warm up on our
favorite climb - the Central Pillar of Tad - 5.8.
Emily stepped up to the plate, and lead off.
Emily was on a roll, lead the second pitch, and
Rick brought both of us up the third and last pitch.
We had lunch while looking at the climb Park Lane
5.9. Continuous awkward right leaning crack and
face leading to exposed and spicy moves higher.
A typical Laine Christman classic, one of the best
routes on the Obelisk. Emily, feeling brave,
headed right up, did fine, and decided to lead every
pitch!
All in all, a great day! We pulled out around 4:30,
and a few miles down Hwy 447, we pulled in to
check out the Purgatory Boulders. 200 acres
of quality boulders. Right below the Purgatory
Peak climbing area.
Tad - metal fire ring gone, same would happen
to a picnic table
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2015 - 08:09am PT
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Ty posts up here sometimes. He and Laine have climbed together, and though we've talked about it, haven't had the opportunity.
Bob, looks like you and Rick are tearing it up out there. Also looks like Emily enjoyed the trip? Glad to see y'all getting out!
We're bringing a trailer, and as such will have to camp somewhat below the regular parking area. No way it will get through the rocks. Hoping we can all agree on a central area...?
Incidentally, chukar season will be open by trip time. See any birds out there?
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Sep 30, 2015 - 08:29am PT
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Emily said she would smiling for days!
Rick and I were wondering about your
trailer Jrig. I said if anyone would try to
pull it up to the top, it would be Johnny!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Sep 30, 2015 - 08:41am PT
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BUMP For stoke
And there is ... A top rope cliff full of 5.12's & up that is across the high way - as the crow flys from the Wendy's parking lot roughly.- The walk starts at the park & ride at s23 at the south bound East View exit. This is the park & ride lot that is closest to the paved walks along the ponds/ reservoirs the twin ones.
Walk, away from the water, turn left back up the paved trail parallel to the hi-way,
till the 'worthwhile' (large enough)
but highly visible, rocks,
between the trial & hi-way appear. ..( I can't/ won't guess distance ... . e-device )
There was a tornado in this area that left a scar going uphill if you can spot this head over the slabs allowing for elevation gain over the top of the ridge, then down the back hillside to a wide carriage road.
WHAT IS THIS ? Why don't I add it where it belongs ? You ask , I can't seem to remember enough of the locations location, they are all in upper west jester NY that was auto correct but to trespass to climb is A drag, That said, the climbing there is amazing if you can find it avoiding the TICS little bugs that bite, and make you very sick. the key? anyway I don't think it can be posted . , .mmm private Rockefeller lands.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2015 - 10:49am PT
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Good looking rock Gnome.
I gotta flip the axles on the trailer first. I think top of the ridge above Christman's crag there would be fine, but Brenda will kick my ass if I break our trailer. I'm going to bring some aid gear though. Maybe take a look at some roofs...
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Sep 30, 2015 - 01:49pm PT
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Cool.. Aid belaying sounds just about my speed right now. Perhaps I can tend the BBQ and inspect the beers for quality at the same time. You will probably be ok.
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Sep 30, 2015 - 04:37pm PT
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That sure looks beautiful...
I wonder if I can borrow Dingus' van for an adventure...
So much out there that I saw and want to know more. Thanks for the share, and hope to get up there!
Cheers
LS
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Oct 19, 2015 - 07:02am PT
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Bump, for this weekend
The Sphinx, Stepping Out, 5.9
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Oct 19, 2015 - 05:36pm PT
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Toproping today off hwy 445. Steep volcanic or metamorphic, 3 lines in the 5.9 to 5.10 range. My son's GF climbing.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2015 - 11:52pm PT
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Looks like fun Rick!
Brenda's going to miss seeing your wife at the campout. Glad there should be at least a couple other ladies there she can talk to though.
I took a deer out on the north side of the mountain, out past Unionville where you poked around the end of the road. I think there's some decent granite, though short, on the north side if a guy's willing to hike, still would like a closer look at the south side.
Here's a shot of another range a little further out as taken through the binoculars with the cell phone. Looks worthy of an outing to explore it, anyway.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Oct 20, 2015 - 07:32pm PT
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Bob and I made the pilgrimage to The Crack Wall today. We found a quality line to the right of the big chimney/gully and suited up. Just as we were about to start I found a military style ring angle driven up under a flake at the bottom. I belayed 155' up on a good ledge with plenty of available
anchors. Bob soon joined me and we decided that because of the gardening and trundling of a good sized block that the climb showed no signs of previous ascent and we had pulled off yet another good FA to compliment the growing total of excellent Egyptian Ridge routes. We named it Geri Atric and asessed it at about 5.8. Bob scrambled upwards looking for a rappell point or walkoff down the short backside. After 10 more feet Bob called down that he had found an established rappell anchor consisting of a stopper, long ring angle, and #2 cam- so much for our FA.
Anyone out there willing to step up and claim authorship of this climb? The anchors are recent, probably within the last month or two.
Bob has the pics, hopefully he'll post them.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Oct 20, 2015 - 09:54pm PT
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[photoid=432116]
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Oct 20, 2015 - 09:59pm PT
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2015 - 06:19am PT
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Not mine.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Oct 21, 2015 - 07:26am PT
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Atop the first, and more logical belay ledge, I had convinced myself that the bottom ring angle was a trappers anchor. After discovery of the top anchors, and considering the bottom ring angle ideal for a upward pull, then the fact that the block directly in the climbs path that was ready to fall at a hares breath, I came up with the idea that the route had been done by a rope soloist. A soloist, who's rope would be in peril by the block going both up and down, could not afford to trundle this menacing block.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2015 - 08:20am PT
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It's an odd menagerie of pieces, which at first glance appear to be connected only through the cable loop on the stopper. When I look closer I see the ring on the piton serving as the main point. Where the pieces all connected as pictured prior to your arrival?
Maybe worthwhile to ask on Mountainproject as well. Sounds like Ty and Laine had made a trip out some time earlier this past year to investigate the roofs, maybe they left it? I think they put up a two-pitch somewhere out there, not sure where. Thought they were not so much in favor of leaving fixed pieces though... Laine maybe headed out this weekend, so will be able to ask him.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Oct 21, 2015 - 09:18am PT
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The stopper and ring angle were connected by a quick link, the cam had a wire gate biner. I didn't think Laine or Ty liked using pins.
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