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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 29, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
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Bob, it goes without the kneebar. First few times I did it was with that first kneebar/rest. Never tried doing any kneebars after that first kneebar (didn't occur to me, or I'm not tall enough??) i just underclinged it from there on. It CAN be done! I probably wasted WAY to much time getting to that point, anyway. Plus, I was never really that good of a climber to begin with. SO, if I could do it, I suspect others can/could. The first kneebar doesn't really help much anyway, since the very next move/undercling is the first really hard one. Josh Higgins almost sent it. If you watch the vid, it looks as though he wasted valuable energy trying to get/use additional kneebars (after the first one). I don't think he is from the San Diego area, and probably only tried it that day (him & his buddy). I suspect that if he had returned to try again (or worked on it a few different days) he would have eventually got it, because he came pretty close. And, like I said, I'm sure there are plenty of much harder things being done at Woodson, stuff I sure in hell could never done/do!! But, SB is a great problem, and a good core body workout at the end of the day, if for nothing else!! I just wanted to keep the stoke/interest going, in regards to it!
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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Nov 29, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
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Hi guys, Donny here. Dan and I never really tried to sandbag anybody at woodson. The boulder problems up on that hill were so easy to us that we just figured everyone could do them, Even Henny was able to do some things up there. albeit after we showed him the moves countless times. Poor chicken would try to scratch his way up things........no style at all. I'm not sure if he still climbs........
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Gersh
Trad climber
San Diego, Ca
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Nov 29, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
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REIGN 1, you showed my buddy and I around Woodson back in the late 80's. We were a couple of high school grommets that would often run in to you, Piggot, and Tom L. Also a guy named Todd from A16. You guys gave us the tour of all the classics and then some. I remember learning how to hip belay anchored in to the base of Uncertainty Principle. Thanks for some good times!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 29, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
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IMHO, Silk Bananna is a good, honest, workingman's Woodson 11c.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Nov 29, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
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then what is Jaws? 10a? Because I flashed Jaws in the heat and SB might as well be B4. lol.
p.s.... I'm a weak midget with small hands... I think I answered my own question. Nevermind, carry on!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 29, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
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Jaws vs. Silk Bannana? Apples and oranges. Might as well compare Sherries Crack vs. Generator Crack.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 29, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
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5.11c = 6a = V3
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Nov 29, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
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glad to see that woodson is still folding folks into its warm welcoming embrace
and sb is lite
heh
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Nov 29, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
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np henny....ya see, used to be i would guard unclimbed lines and new areas with great care (hiding trailhead with brush piles, coming and going under cover of darkness, tunnel networks, disguises etc)until i had mopped up all the FAs i (and allenby usually) could manage. After that i would bring in my buddies, like epps, MP, amondovar bros etc to climb the cracks and other undesirable features, THEN leak the location. Now that age has reduced me to a lowly, god forsaken 5.10 (on a good day) climber, my new routes have become trails to new routes, and benevolent humanitarian that i am, i direct those who are able to the potential lines i come across. Last year when i cut a trail network that opened up all kinds of potential on the south slope i blatantly advertised, on this very site, that plums were there for the picking. The response was no response until i dragged horvath down there and stood him in front of what became "flight of the ox". I know a line when i see it, even if i cant crank em like i used to.
So go past the terminator, take the downhill leg and turn left at the big boulder, then head straight for 50 feet to a small boulder, hop over to the next rock, climb to the top and gaze down upon the land o plenty. Thats more info than any woodson local should need...we dont do coordinates in these parts, except to pick the right bandana to match our sox.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Nov 29, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
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yah as far as SB goes, i got a c-note that says i flail like a gut shot wildebeest on it before dropping to the deck and pulling a muscle. Who's in?
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 30, 2012 - 11:52am PT
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bvb - IMHO, Silk Banana is a good, honest working mans .11c! Using your knee/kneebars? Yes! But it's obviously harder if you don't/can't use kneebars.
V0 - 5.10
V1 - 5.10+
V2 - 5.11
V3 - 5.11+
V4 - 5.12-
V5 - 5.12a/b
V6 - 5.12b/c
V7 - 5.12c/d
V8 - 5.13
V9 - 5.13a/b
V10 - 5.13b/c
V11 - 5.13c/d
V12 - 5.14a/b
V13 - 5.14b/c
V14 - 5.14c/d
V15 - 5.15
So, Josh Higgins sends these 5.13's in the Pinnacles, etc., and he can't boulder out a Woodson 5.11c?
EDIT: here is what it boils down to with the kneebars on SB: you have to be very tall! Rick Piggott = @6'6" How tall are you BVB?
bvb - all i'm saying is that it's a LOT harder than 11c if you don't/can't kneebar it. I'm pretty sure Josh Higgins will attest (agree) to this!
Just keeping it real!
:)
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 30, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
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Psyched for this weekend! The forecast says cloudy and <70 degrees. PRIME!
Who's gonna be there?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 30, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
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Whatev's ya big fat homo spraylords. Quit trifling a great Woodson classic with your frikkin' penis measuring pissing match.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Nov 30, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
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Ooooh...look at that delicate toe placement! That man has Eldo-prancer written all over him!
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
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and I didn't think it could get worse...
Magus, I won't be making it this weekend man, its raining, have fun if you go!
Rick, I don't think ox has seen a 2nd, but maybe. Some other guys on the hill have tried it, but it hasn't really seen a lot of attention....idk
I cannot do SB, or at least have not done it... haven't tried in a year either. I think its hard. Splitter I have 13 bucks in my wallet, thats all I'm wagering. You seem to be really enjoying writing about your send.
Henny, give me a shout if you make it down here. Ron's directions are good, but if you want a guide and you can't link up with him, I can show you around as well.
Psyched for some RAIN!!
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Nov 30, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
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Juanito said I thought that if I could do routes that mr big time climber couldn't, maybe I had a future in the sport. Since that was back in '85, how did it turn out? Did you have a future in climbing? Just curious.
I saw the same guy do a problem that I had been trying but couldn't do. I didn't realize that had implications about my future.
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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Nov 30, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
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Gersh, thanks for the props. Woodson was a really fun place to climb back then. We always liked showing newbs the classic climbs and boulder problems. Rick showed us the routes that we never knew extisted and more. Those are the days I miss.........
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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Nov 30, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
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Whats all the hoopla about silk banana? Just another woodson classic.
These (hardmen) need to visit the V.P. office and undertow to see what they got. Exit stage left, high on the hog, slap you silly, might give these (hard men) a little workout. There's so many good problems on that hill...........
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Nov 30, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
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yep yep, and if 11c at woodson would be 12b or c at your favorite clip n dangle redpoint-o-rama spurt climbing area, it doesnt mean theres something wrong with the ratings at woodson, it just means youve never seen a real 11c. That sh*t aint supposed to be easy.
On Rick Piggot, that guy was the genuine enchilada. Boulder with him for an hour and you come away with a new definition of strong. He found and climbed the hardest, most classic climbs on the hill, would send anything you took him to, had balls of solid stainless steel, is the most accomplished climber in the history of mt woodson, yet he was never smug or egotistical. A man of few words and mighty deeds who set the woodson standard for climbs, climbing ability and personal class.
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hellcyon
climber
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Nov 30, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
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Hoping to stoke a different kind of fire ....
Most all of my photos up thread are off of this circuit. Sorry for the slow response to some of your questions/emails. I cut most of the trail this past summer. With winter upon us my energies are compelled elsewhere, but perhaps someone else will find some fun along the way...Happy Trails! :)
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