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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2010 - 03:12am PT
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That's what I'm in need of...a belay slave! There's a really strong guy named Andrew that's been wanting to lead M.S. as well. He's more than likely apt to succeed on it than I am. I think I'll contact him as well and see if I can't get him up there this weekend. Wanna tag along anyway Donny? Maybe you can help video or take pics! I'll leave my cell # in your email on this.
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REIGN 1
Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
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Jan 15, 2010 - 03:18am PT
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If you go up on sunday I don't think I'll make it. Got the phoenix supercross on TV and the Chargers are going to be killing the jets in the afternoon. Got a mountain bike race on saturday to deal with in the morning and jetski practice in the afternoon. So I think I'm busy this weekend LOL
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 15, 2010 - 04:59am PT
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GO CHARGERS!!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 15, 2010 - 03:23pm PT
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Watusi, that (re: the contest and 10a On the Outside) sounds pretty close to what I remember the story being.
haul his ass down to the vice-principal's office for a proper woodsonian paddling.
Whoa! I can feel the love just oozing out of that statement! hahaha. Good one bvb! That is undoubtedly just what would happen, which is why I won't get near it. Gotta choose my ground a little more carefully than that.
Hey REIGN 1, I may be old but at least I can still manage to get up while it's still light outside. Dang, while I was waiting for a certain grandpa to show I thought it was going to get dark before we even started.
Is it just me? Woodson is currently trashing my tips pretty good each time I'm there. Not sure if I remember that always being the case or not. Probably the same as it ever was though.
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REIGN 1
Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
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Jan 15, 2010 - 03:48pm PT
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I know I'm out of shape. Wait a minute, round is a shape! I think the biggest problem after being to fat is my shoes are 5 sizes to small. I'll be sporting a new pair next time I head up that hill.
It's just you. My tips felt fine after yesterdays climbing.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2010 - 05:27pm PT
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Whoa, I just remembered...Darrell, did Piggot or anyone else ever take you up to Firefly? It's up and over the west side of the summit, due north of The Ogre. Now that looks like one that has your name all over it! A technical face traverse into a finger crack to the top, 5.11+ if I recall correctly. I remember Rick taking me to it, setting up the TR then allowing me the opportunity to give it a go first. How nice of him. I remember having a heck of a time getting started and bailed soon after. After hangdogging for a while Rick said, "Are you through yet?" I got the hint and asked to be lowered. The Man proceeded to cruise the face/traverse and methodically cranked to the anchors.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 15, 2010 - 05:35pm PT
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good call gary. forgot about firefly. uber-classic. all kidding aside henny, speaking strictly from pride of place, it's a woodson showpiece. just completely perfect, on woodson's best rock. back in the day it was never done ropeless, but with a bunch of pads it'd be reasonable.
edit: i don't think i did it more than a handful of times, and i never had much trouble doing it, but i do remember it always felt hard -- right at my first-try limit. i probably fell on it a few times but have memorexed that part out.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2010 - 05:49pm PT
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Gosh, Bob, another...What about Cast of a Thousand Stones on the front side of the Chimney Rock (right hand side of the road) before Big Grunt? Big stack of cheatstones, up to underclinging a fat, dirty flake then traversing right out on a tips seam for about 20 feet then escaping straight up to a broken section above. Word has it that the cheatstone start to this creation was created while Rick was recovering from a fractured arm with a cast in place, hence the name. I self belayed myself to recon that thing way b.i.t.d. and laughed when I refused to believe that it was doable!
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2010 - 05:55pm PT
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Or, how about this story...
Fade to Black on the Atom Ant boulder:
This unclimbable looking seam was freed back in the 90's. "Rick rated it 5.12d but its more likely in the 13's. Rick is the master!", says Troy W. of Ramona, CA.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 15, 2010 - 05:58pm PT
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yeah that thing was a "last great problem" for years. short, right on the road, hennybait for sure.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2010 - 06:05pm PT
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And of course, I have to highlight these again for what else can I say...
Lady's and Gentleman, boys and girls...introducing once again,
Bob Van Belle and Rick Piggot on...Undertow!
"That be me, burning my one and only solo lap on that thing. Scaaaaary. To my knowledge, Tom Lindner and Piggot are the only two guys who've done it straight-in as an offwidth. That is to say, they're the only two guys who've lead it. If you undercling it, you're either tr'ing or soloing".....BVB
"Another legendary California mystery hardman from the 70's and 80's, Rick's gig was soloing Woodson 5.12's and El Cap spook routes. Here's Rick leading the massive Undertow Roof at Mt. Woodson, circa mid 80's. Like many Woodson rarities and obscurities, it's likely this route has not seen a chalk mark in 15 years." - BVB
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REIGN 1
Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
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Jan 15, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
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I belayed Rick on the route right of reach for a peach chimney. The stones were the only way to get a jam at the start. Solid woodson 5.12 route. I showed it to Darrel yesterday as we walked down. Firefly is a really good route. I also belayed Rick the first time he led undertow. I was more scared than he was. I figured if he flung off my skull would be crushed sitting at the start of the climb. That thing was tricky as an offwith. I tried a few times with Rick coaching.
How come in the pic of BVB on it the caption reads 5.11-? I thought it was f-n hard as an undercling. I made it once and never had to see that rock again. haha
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2010 - 06:15pm PT
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Hey Donny/Bob,
What's the name of the smooth, fat arete down there on the left half of Chimney Rock? Is that a Mike Paul FA?
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REIGN 1
Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
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Jan 15, 2010 - 06:25pm PT
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I need a better description. Do you mean chimney rock with reach for a peach? or the big grunt chimney? Who's Mike Paul? (ducking and running)LOL
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2010 - 07:01pm PT
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On Chimney Rock....down below as you descend to the downhill side of the boulder you first encounter the left half of the chimney which has a smooth arete which you slap/layback up. It goes at 11b'ish. I remember watching Mike trying it when I arrived to give him some verbal encouragement. Right then, he came off, lowered to the ground walked up to me putting his finger in my chest and said, "You're next!" Quivering in my boots, I obliged and came off myself. Nothing personal Mike, just recalling memories as youngsters!
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gonzo chemist
climber
the Twilight Zone of someone else's intentions
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Jan 15, 2010 - 07:06pm PT
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speaking of burly underclings, who here has done the Silk Banana? That thing's kind of strenuous, no?
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jan 15, 2010 - 07:11pm PT
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BVB
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 15, 2010 - 07:13pm PT
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what is this silk bananna of which you speak?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 15, 2010 - 07:17pm PT
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How odd... You guys are talking about all these offwidths and such, postin' up pics, and I see the pics but for the life of me I can't see any climbs in them. How odd...
okay, just kiddin...
Keep it coming guys, you're on a roll. Good stuff.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2010 - 07:18pm PT
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You said the wrong/right words Gonzo, lol! Show more, show more Bob!
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