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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 17, 2017 - 08:43am PT
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When I did the FA of Torre Egger we climbed the "supposed" 1959 Maestri/Egger line to the Col of Conquest. We found many arifacts in the first 300 meters leading to a prominent snowfied....this turned out to be their highpoint.
The previous year I found the remains of Toni Egger where the glacier from the base of Cerro Torre bottomed out on the flat, dry glacier.
There were many artifacts so finding additional ones would be no surprise.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jul 17, 2017 - 08:56am PT
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So marlow, your chock is a genuine Old Mystery Pro, and... a magnificent sample!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 17, 2017 - 09:49am PT
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Timmc! Re your question: Any tricks to reveal markings?
24 hours in vinegar & then a little light scrubbing with dish soap or Bartender's Friend & a plastic Scothbrite pad, works wonders on oxidized old biners.
If it is an early Chouinard, this is what you are looking for.
CHOUINARD will be very-faint & hard to see on one side, per this photo.
820 & ALCOA should be much more distinct on the opposite side.
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Jul 17, 2017 - 09:52am PT
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Wow Jim, that's a startling photo of Toni Egger's remains.
I also found a big cache of gear above the Nunatak that contained all kinds of stuff from early Patagonia clothing to ropes of different generations.
It likely melted out.
Will dig up some photos...
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Jul 17, 2017 - 10:06am PT
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Thanks Fritz. Can't wait to do this.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jul 17, 2017 - 10:40am PT
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Donini - Jim, what did you do with the Toni Egger artifacts? I hope you donated them to a museum or something. They are awesome especially the leg bone in the boot!!! So very cool!!!
Marlow and Stephane - The nut shape looks like a very large Gendarme which the cord holes were more rounded out. Mystery nut for sure!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jul 17, 2017 - 11:05am PT
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In the 1958 REI catalog it has two listings under the hammer showing one is Austrian (1 1/4lb) and one is Swiss (1 3/4lb). So I visited the post office this morning and they weighed the hammer for me showing it weighs in at one pound 4.4 ounces (20.4 oz), so it is the Austrian hammer which I have and is the one pictured in the REI catalog. The Swiss hammer weighs a 1/2 pound more....dang! Possibly the Swiss hammer and the Austrian hammer look alike?
Now the question is....what company in Austria created the unmarked Austrian hammers for REI?
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Jul 18, 2017 - 08:24am PT
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Here a a few photos of the gear I found near Cerro Torre:
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Jul 18, 2017 - 08:26am PT
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Jul 20, 2017 - 09:00am PT
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Hey Fritz,
I have that old biner soacking on vinegar , but I can totally make out
820 and ALCOA- so a Choiunard for sure
I also found this on the glacier below Cerro Torre:
Old ice screw I suspect.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 20, 2017 - 09:13am PT
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Yes, an ice srew...I actually used srews nearly identical to that in the late 60's.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jul 20, 2017 - 06:20pm PT
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I am not sure who made that ice screw. The Stubai Marwa is pictured on the top of this photo and I am not sure who makes the other shown third down. You can see both are different than the Timmc mystery ice screw.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 20, 2017 - 07:32pm PT
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Marty- Your hammer is likely made by Austrialpin who maddeningly doesn't stamp their gear except "MADE IN AUSTRIA".
The third ice screw down in your photo should be a Charlet-Moser.
The mystery screw looks like a Marwa but with a welded rather than wrapped eye detail which I have never seen.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Jul 20, 2017 - 07:48pm PT
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Marty,
My uncle had this piton hammer that he bought from REI in 1967. It weighs 19.1 oz. It was made by Salewa.
Not rare (I wouldn't guess) but your pic above reminded me that I had it.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 20, 2017 - 08:03pm PT
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Donini! Re your input!
Yes, an ice srew...I actually used srews nearly identical to that in the late 60's.
Please claify, was that the 1960's, or the 1860's?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jul 20, 2017 - 10:10pm PT
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Steve - Did AustriAlpin make gear in the 1950s?
WyoRockMan - I have Salewa hammers like that but I always associate Salewa with West Germany not Austria, where REI says they are from Austria. Nice artifact! Maybe a distributor in Austria was importing Salewa hammers and sending them to REI? My hammer has no markings on the head or handle.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jul 21, 2017 - 01:20am PT
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On a second generation of Charlet-Moser Super Mont-Blanc ice axe, the hole in the adze was modified in a shape of a keyhole that allowed the Charlet-Moser ice-screws to be driven with the axe.
Regarding the ice-screw on the bottom of Marty's photo, Dahu thinks that it is a Simond Conique à Frapper (1974).
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 21, 2017 - 06:45am PT
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When you think of the development of climbing gear since climbing became a sport in the mid 19th Century a couple of things come to mind.
For roughly the first 100 years climbing was dominated by British aristocrats and the local Swiss and French guide class that arose to service them. This led to very little development of either equipment or technique because of the hidebound, traditional mindset. Consider that steps were still being cut on ice climbs in the mid 1950's and front points on crampons were so late in coming.
I believe that when Don Whillans and Joe Brown appeared on the scene and opened up Brutish climbing to the working classes the mindset began to change.
But the real changes were brought about by brash Americans who came from a culture where tradition had little force and new ideas were paramount.
Chouinard revolutionized ice climbing both in the development of new techniques and equipment. Likewise, Yosemite did the same for rockclimbing. The concept of free climbing without grabbing the occasional piece (French free), big wall techniques, and innovative gear like cams all had their genesis in the Valley.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jul 21, 2017 - 07:13am PT
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I started purchasing my climbing gear in 1985 and many items came from the REI store. Harness leg loops and swami belts were separate. Friends and Metolius cam units had no webbing on them, No sewn slings or daisy chains. I was constantly having REI cut webbing for me and I became really good with tying water knots. A year or so later the Hiking Shack had Chouinard harnesses available that had the padded swami and leg loops all in one unit. It is amazing how much climbing gear has progressed in just the last 50 years.
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