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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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Apr 28, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
Later and much higher on the route John (JP) Pearson was just minding his business belaying at a hanging station. It was a long mixed aid and free pitch and JP was getting bored. Suddenly he hears ROOOOOOCKK! Looking up he has just enough time to lean back and take the chunk in the face. Instead of a head shot the projectile nearly takes his nose off. His proboscis is broken and mashed flat to his face. He looks like warmed over death. Now the lads still have a day and a half to go to get off and no one wants to contemplate retreat from so high up on the wall. So up they continue. By the time they top out and get to a doctors office in town JP's nose has already set and scabbed over. He looked like a wild man of Borneo. After several days on the wall the other three didn't look or smell much better.To set it properly the doc has to not only re open all the lacerations but rebreak it as well. He either figured that if two days with a pancaked nose didn't kill the big bad wall climber then pain wouldn't be a problem or that they all looked like junkies. What ever the reason the doc gave JP nothing for pain. I don't know who was least prepared or more surprised. JP when the doc grabbed his schnoz with out warning and tweaked it hard, or the doc when JP reacted with a big swing that broke the doc's nose and medicine cabinet. A clear case of equal and opposite reaction.
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Gary
Social climber
From A Buick 6
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And the fact is that even one armed and competent CCW citizen in any of those "gun-free zone" mass shootings would have reduced or even eliminated the death-toll.
Fact? Or conjecture on your part?
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WBraun
climber
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The height of narcissism as Philo highjacks the admins thread and makes it all about himself .....
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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Taking a thread that had degenerated into the polar opposite of the OP's intention and steering it back to climbing and positive content is hardly a hijack and more of a recovery mission.
So in your eyes guilty as charged.
Don't taze me bro.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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I'm too busy enjoying philo's great pics to post any of my usual asinine drivel.
Inquiring Minds Must Know. Which of the lovely ladies is Jan?
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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Thanks HighTraverse!
Jan is sitting to Crushers right.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Now you've got to tell us the handcuffs story.
Hey Jan, it's always fun to put a face to a supertardo name.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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Jan is a gem. A real treasure trove of knowledge and history.
HighTraverse the back story is on one of my climbing Trip Reports.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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People keep talkin' at me I can't hear a word they're sayin'...
Sounds like burbling water and wind in the willows.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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Reposted from - Nov 25, 2008 - 12:59pm PT
This story about Pulaski was previously posted in the Hooray for Ouray thread but is still classic. Tom is one of the most accomplished climbers I know, I would tie in with him and let him belay me anytime anywhere. He came to Boulder (to enroll his son at C.U.) and we all met at the Boulder Rock Club for a little diversion. I was running late with kids in tow (like herding kittens) and when I got there Tom was standing back with a stupid grin on his mug. He sheepishly told me he had flunked his belay test. I croaked laughing. The kid who gave him the test had probably been climbing less than a year and flunked a guy who climbed things beyond the testers wildest imagination. Seeing belay banned Tom standing next to a tiny ten year old with the belay OK was too funny.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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Reposted from the dark ages.
When we were roping up at the base Saturday morning Dave reminded me that it was 30 years ago this month that I took him on his first route in the Black.
The SOUTHERN ARETE of the PAINTED WALL
The second time I did the Southern Arete of the Painted Wall route was more than a decade later when as the gnarled experienced veteren I was initiating the latest whelp d'jour. I was confident that having done the route before and having filled out my resume of comparitive experiences that this was going to be a romp. I even had temerity to schedule a date with my ever so high maintenance girl friend back in Gunnison that same evening.
Well the "Black" is never casual and up high I got way off route and way spiced out right before dusk. My partner Dave Henritze had to follow, in the dark, with a pack, a full pitch of virtually un protected pegma-loose including an "if you fall we both go" 40' sideways traverse to get to my belay. What a way to bust a whelp. He was awesome! Particularily when I foolishly shone my headlamp (our only lamp) right into his night vision adjusted eyes moments after he had un clipped the last piece of pro and was about to start traversing the unprotected pegma-loose. Fearing that we were stuck there for the night I built an anchor with any and all the gear I could trick in. Thirteen pieces of marginal bivy pro.
This is the inspiration for the "Fine Mess" cartoon in Robbie William's Black Canyon guide book.
We spent a surprisingly uncomfortable bivy way off the deck on a doormat sized jumble of broken rock in the middle of one of the epic pegmatite bands that eventually flow into the dragons. With less than a sniff of water and a dwindling bag of mini snickers for sustenance between us, we huddled together in a single bivy sac sleeplessly starring at the river foaming 2000 feet below. To this day more than fifteen years later I can't get the river song out of my head. And I can't look a snickers in the nuts without gagging.
To further complicate this adventure I was deeply troubled by the realization that not only was my girlfriend being stood up but she had also likely by now realized I'd borrowed her car with out asking. When our friends showed up at the rim with headlamps to check on us I fairly begged them to pitch down several lengths of connected rope and jumars. After all I still had hopes of a sex life after climbing. But that idea was a NO GO. We almost took off climbing again when the moon filled the canyon to over flowing but the morning clearly showed how fatally flawed that line of reasoning would have proven. Dicey poorly protected pegmatite traversing into unprotected off widths for breakfast. I have never been so blue balled!
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HermitMaster
Social climber
my abode
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Philo still reminds me of a spoiled child.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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Woo Hoo!!!
Malcolm Daly's 60th birthday party raised a ton of gear and thousands of dollars for earthquake relief in Nepal. Packing and shipping and doing good.
Malcolm and Karen Daly are wonderful souls and the soul of the boulder clan.
And a big shout out to Jose Yavari one of the kindest souls.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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Jonny's Tree
Chataqua park.
Fall 2014
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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Maybe to improve sight.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Well, I have once again successfully drawn a cow elk tag in the far reaches of Nevada. Given the past three years experiences, I will be loading rounds and sighting the rifle in to 400 yds, whereas previous years only reached to 300. Additionally, I have started training by going on daily three mile walks with the girls at work, carrying a pack loaded with climbing gear for added weight. Too bad the ground is flat around here.
Added bonus: the area I've once again drawn to hunt is loaded with large outcrops of usually chossy rock! Sometimes though, there's a bit of quality to it, and I see potential to carve out some multi-pitch routes. Unfortunately, the hunt will likely take place in snow and/or icy conditions; and I lack the vast experience exhibited by philo in previous photos, so it is unlikely that I will be able to photobomb this thread with icy butt-shots.
Here, however, are a few pictures from last year.
Apparently, this is an anything goes kinda thread, so long as you keep the positive vibe going. Man I'm stoked! And one of these days, I will drag some poor fool along not ONLY to help me schlepp elk out of the back-country; but also for some obscure, chossy, dangerously remote FA of something unworthy of Supertopo greatness. Now taking applications for volunteer camp bitch/pack mule.
Incidentally, just doing my part here to recover this thread from the personal attack platform it has degenerated into, as originally addressed by the OP.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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Hey there's a six shooter being open carried by Mother Earth in my pic.
And another.
Not only that but this pic has a crag dog at the crag in it. If you can find her you can have a cookie.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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