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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jul 27, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
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During the filming of 'Big Wednesday,' both John Milius and Jan Michael Vincent did quite a bit of surfing on location in El Salvadore, at Coho Point and at Sunset Beach. By the end of the filming, they were in probably the best surfing shape of their lives. In this picture, we are standing on the beach at Sunset and I'm guess I'm pointing out some of the intricacies of this complex spot. This was before surf leashes so the most important thing would be as much information as possible about how to swim in after losing a surfboard in the line-up and not losing it completely in the rip currents in the channel afterwards. By the expressions on their faces, I must have been making an impression because they sure look like they're paying complete attention..... Gerry Lopez
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jul 28, 2012 - 04:20pm PT
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Leavittator
climber
san diego, ca.
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Jul 29, 2012 - 02:10am PT
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I would vote to outlaw leashes there...
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jul 29, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
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I would vote to outlaw leashes there...
I always wear a leash but I do agree that they can be a crutch and they can be a real hazard in hectic lineups and big waves.
The closest I ever came to drowning was back in the early 70's at cape Hatteras when my leash got wrapped around an imbedded log and I couldn't get it free. The sets were just pummeling me and I was soo panicked! Ii don't know how but I broke the leash and swam in. I sat on the beach for quite a while with my head in my hands physically and emotionally exhausted!
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jul 29, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
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IMO: This would be way more interesting to watch than most of the swimming events in the Olympics.
I also feel that indoor climbing would be way better that some of the Olympic events like dance for instance or even some of the prancing equestrian stuff.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jul 29, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
I was surfing no more that a quarter mile down the beach the day this occurred.
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Some Random Guy
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Jul 29, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
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it's surprising to me that a very small percentage of these fatalities have occurred along the california coast and an even smaller percentage in the red triangle. that gives me some relief. but now you have to ask, how many non-fatal attacks are there along the california coast and within the red triangle. couldn't find stats on that.
still, that won't stop me from going out there. just like bears will not stop me from being in the backcountry.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 30, 2012 - 12:10am PT
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Frumy surfing Ventura's Mondos.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jul 30, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
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Leavittator
climber
san diego, ca.
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Jul 30, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
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o-man,
I like leashes too. Sometimes, if there are no leashes, the (crowded) lineup gets cleared faster. But it is not so fun if your board hits rocks, etc.
Sunset Beach has that nice side channel that washes your board into the main channel.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jul 31, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
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As I stated up thread we haven’t had much surf of any kind since that last south swell event over a week ago. So I have been loading my bike in the back of my truck and driving down the coast to Kanaha Beach Park and leaving it there with a cooler in it.
I then jump on my cruiser bike and buck the stiff head wind 4.5 miles back to my place at the beach in Kuau.
I grab my sail and wave board and walk to my local launch and rig up and sail solo down the coast taking my time enjoying the dynamic view while dodging sea turtles, spooking flying fish, and riding clean open ocean wind swell all the way down to Kanaha Beach Park.
It’s really cool to be out on the ocean with just my rig and board shorts and nothing else.
I have been doing this same routine for many days now. It’s an excellent way to have some fun, getting some exercise, beating the heat, and surviving summer’s doldrums while I wait for the next south swell and/ or my job to start back up.
Earlier this week I missed a golden opportunity to practice what I have been trying to project in Maui Ocean Sports Magazine.
After dropping off my truck and biking home I grabbed my windsurf kit and walked over to the launch.
For some reason or another (maybe it was that I was getting a later start than usual) I felt rushed and in a hurry as I was about to launch my sailboard from the cove that afternoon.
As I was rigging my sail and getting ready to launch on my downwind coast run there were two young kids paddling into the channel and there was a diver that was working the channel on his way back to the launch.
The young kids climbed the smooth and very slippery step stones and they immediately sat down right in the entry to the channel with their surf boards nearly blocking the rocky path. They were waiting for their parents to paddle in after their family downwind paddle.
At this point the diver was starting the process of removing his fins, mask and snorkel. He then needed to deflate and stow his marker buoy and coil the line. He also needed to secure his spear gun and the small octopus he had shot.
Getting out of the water with all your gear (whatever the activity) at our rocky beach is no easy chore and there is only one set of “flatter kine” stones to use.
After the diver gathered his stuff he climbed those slippery stones and set his gear down next to the kids and their surfboards and started the process of completing his equipment brake down right in the path to the launch. This completely blocked the entry to the channel.
At this point I have my sail rigged, I have my harness on, and my board and sail are attached.
I am waiting patiently for the diver to complete his tasks and move out of the way.
The Kuau launch a very small area and we often have a lot of activity; I mean a lot of activity, especially in the winter at the Kuau launch when there is wind and waves.
There is an understanding among the locals that frequent this beach. That is, never block the launch area and move all gear as far away as possible as soon as possible before stashing or de-rigging.
Did mention that I felt rushed to get (my downwind coast run) underway while I felt the wind was still favorable?
At this point a fellow carried his SUP board right around me, the two kids, their boards, and the diver with all his equipment. He gets in the water and starts the process of getting his show together.
All the while I am still waiting patiently for the diver to wrap his stuff up and the SUP’er is taking his time right in the spot where I need to launch.
At this point the little surfer girl decides to go for a leisurely swim in the cove.
By this time I had just had it! I decided it was time for me to just go! I had been more than patient with these people and I felt that my window of successfully making it to Kanaha Beach Park was shrinking exponentially.
I started walking around the diver that was now making a statement as to how slow he could go.
It was apparent to him when my sail touched him as I went around that I wanted through.
Now I had to deal with the standup guy who instead of moving out of the way after he was in the water, was hogging the whole mouth of the cove. This wouldn’t have been any issue if the wind was off shore but it was on shore so a beach start was possible and I intended to get one. Besides that I had never seen this guy at the beach in the 13 years that I have been sailing there. I am sure he is a very nice guy though.
I got my beach start and I was quickly on a plane and heading for the outside of the channel and I could see the little girl that was swimming in the channel.
It’s common to have a swimmer in the channel when launching and I have never had an issue with it. But this time I had a lot of power in my sail and I was getting very close to the little girl so I just dropped my rig and fell in. She was in no danger but I felt that I was too close for safety. She was unaware that I was there and when I splashed in the water it startled her. She said,” I am soo sorry!” I told her that it wasn’t her fault and that everything was OK.
As this was happening her parents were paddling up and they saw the whole thing.
As soon as I was positive that I was clear of the girl I water started and sailed away as fast as I could.
As I passed the parents who are friends of mine and great people, I saw that Josh and Amy had smiles on their faces and Josh said something that I couldn’t understand.
This whole scene that I just mentioned took some of the fun out of my coastal voyage.
I contemplated on how I could have changed the dynamics of that situation.
I should have just relaxed and waited on the beach a bit longer.
That’s all it would have taken.
All in all, the situation was one that each person involved could have been more respectful of the needs of the other.
I intend for this experience to be a lesson to me.
In order to have a positive personal experience one must develop a harmonious setting for that dynamic energy to manifest.
The next day I did the same thing. I dropped my truck off and biked home. I noticed that the wind was light at Kanaha but didn’t worry about it much because when I was launching at Kuau the wind was strong.
I made very good time up until I was about half way and that when I noticed that the wind was getting lighter. I didn’t think much of it and moved further out to sea so as to get into better conditions. This only put me further out from shore and the wind was still dying exponentially by the minute.
At this point I am outside “Spartan Reef” and there is only one place along the rocky coast line to come in and that’s “Sugar Cove”.
I know that if I blow a jibe and fall in that my chances of water starting are slim and none. If I fall in it is going to be a very long swim with my gear back to land and who knows with the currents where I might come in.
At this point my whole being goes into survival mode!
I’m over a quarter mile off shore. I’m sailing out of the straps and out of the harness as I set my course for Sugar Cove. I intend to make it and I do!
With that survival thing out of the way now I am presented with a new challenge. I am still two miles from my truck and I am barefoot and have only my board shorts on. There isn’t really any one to call and I don’t have a phone anyway.
I examine my options and make a decision to bundle my gear and go cross country carrying my rig. My friend Adam lives about half way so I set my course for Adams where I know I can borrow a bike. The first part of the trek was seriously cross country cutting through privet property. Several people saw me as I cut through their yards but no one said anything. I guess I looked strange enough barefoot, shirtless and carrying my board and rolled up sail. I walked the streets on blistering asphalt trying to use as much grass as my route allowed.
I finally made it to the bike path and then it wasn’t far to Adams property where I knew the back way in. I borrowed a pair of his rubber slippers and his mountain bike. I stashed my sailboard gear in his yard and I hit the bike path. I was at my truck at Kanaha Beach Park in about fifteen minutes.
I loaded Adam’s bike in my truck and returned it and picked up my stuff.
When I got home I had a few beers with my Hawaiian neighbor Casey and told him my story.
He said,” Olaf, you one crazy Bugga!”
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SurferFrank
Boulder climber
San Diego, CA
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When you look at waves and rocks they are what they are. When you put a person on a wave or you set a person on a rock you get a point of reference! Gods Glory is made known when we are enjoying it too! SO I say Yes they are both very complimentary pursuits. Complimentary Pursuits of how phenomenal Gods creations are!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Thanks Social. Stupendous. Wonderfully low-key, modern.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Frumy waiting for surf.
great rides at Santa B.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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We had a delightful little bump earlier this week and my buddy Trever and I caught some of it.
The sesh wasn't much to write about but we were the only two guys out and had fun with the shoulder high sets.
When we were paddling out this fairly large manta ray jumped about three feet in the air right between us and then several sea turtles came around right in the line up. It was very cool!
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Some Random Guy
Trad climber
San Francisco
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When you look at waves and rocks they are what they are. When you put a person on a wave or you set a person on a rock you get a point of reference! Gods Glory is made known when we are enjoying it too! SO I say Yes they are both very complimentary pursuits. Complimentary Pursuits of how phenomenal Gods creations are!
agreed! but imo it is easier to put a person on a rock than it is to put a person on a wave! especially a big wave
When we were paddling out this fairly large manta ray jumped about three feet in the air right between us and then several sea turtles came around right in the line up. It was very cool!
now ur just making me oh so jealous
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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