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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Mar 31, 2011 - 02:13pm PT
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Thanks Gary for ruining my chance and anyone else reading this post of an onsite. I hate Beta. Fugure it out for yourself.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 31, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
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I hate to say it Johnny but that statement just sounded like some young kid concerned about himself, and status in life. Come on bro, go out and share some of that talent with the next generation.
Beta? It's a TR Johnny, and on that note, the anchors consist of two bolts wherewhich I used a long runner with two wired gate ovals and a locking carabiner (oops, sorry for the beta). Furthermore, little was mentioned about the moves and location of holds. Thirdly, the gear placements are a pretty standard affair for those versed on such, ie; those experienced enough to even be on this thing. Not too many people are going to onsight TR this, let alone, onsight lead it. It'll be a project just like most of the things you're working on up there. Heck, it's been soloed, so anything other is moot, according to "climbing ettiquette." And the day I ran into you with my little boy, working that face problem on a self belay, thanks for ruining my chance of an onsight. Maybe you should of stopped climbing so as to not have shared any beta with me (sounds pretty rediculous, eh?). Oh, and I did figure it out for myself and now I have to go back and be successful at it. I was just posting something to keep the thread alive. Go back to climbing and have fun, goodness gracious.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Id say somebody needs a nap
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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no shit
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Just looking to get a rise out of Gary, mission acomplished. Seriously though, it seems like the old school ethics are gone. Most "new generation"" climbers care only about ticking off routes. I remember a young hotshot and his posse out at JT last winter. As he was getting ready to climb a boulder problem, he asked "How do you do this one?" A couple of his friends who had already worked out the Beta proceeded to not only describe every move but climbed it repeatedly in front of the hotshot who then "sent" it onsight.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Walking down from the summit yesterday evening, I heard some yelling in the bushes. I look over at bat flake and see some dude hoovering a foot off the ground. Apparently, he thought it was a good idea to lead the thing. Now there's a 2 foot chunk missing.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Two foot chunk missing from the detached flake above?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Kinda like this response to a video I posted on youtube Johnny?:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2shlymWFs0
"encinitasgrl (Sep 10, 2010)
Thanks soooo much for the beta. I was able to get this problem first try after seeing it done this way. Thanks for saving me a heck of a lot of time and frustration! :-)"
Sounds to me like a bit of appreciation and fun was had from this "beta" and that it was not all about her.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Yea Gary, two guys from Rubidough (sp?) broke the end of the flake right off. Luckily nobody got hurt.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Kinda like this response to a video I posted on youtube Johnny?:
dude. posting vids of yourself on youtube is the ultimate lameness. get over yourself. you'll never go viral, just bacterial.
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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I read this thread for beta.
Seriously though, anyone who thinks that beta is "new school" or "poor ethics" is inventing fairy tales.
Guess what? You can (1) sometimes climb with beta (i.e., other people), and thereby learn to climb better, and (2) also go for onsights.
Do you wear a blindfold giving a spot, or belaying? Or just swear off ever doing those routes?
Would a frenchy who dogs and gleans every bit of beta possible 50% of the time, but then comes and onsights everything you've ever done count as someone with poor ethics? Dude, V12 slab went down in Fountainebleu in ca. 1994...you need someone to talk you down from that pedestal.
Damn, lit me up there, hero.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Ahhh...Mr. VanBelle, by your response, I see you missed the point completely. Most of the other video's of different people at Santee Boulders and Woodson on Youtube....I encouraged most them to do the same, to post their videos for the same reason.
I'll have to go up and take a look for myself Doug for it sounds like an ugly sight. Bummer.
Thank God for the support Tarek...;-)
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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I don't think it's so much about, "ticking off routes" but that they just want to enjoy climbing, whether it's, figuring it out on their own, learning by watching others, taking/teaching a class or, watching a video...like what I've been doing for the last thirty years. Yeah, what Tarek said.
On the flip side Johnny, I was out at Santee a few years ago when I ran into a kid at the Twenty Point Boulder. After we greeted and shared a bit about each other, it was apparent that he wasn't one to accept any "beta" but instead said, "I want to figure it out on my own." I obliged and sat back to watch him. No sooner did he turn back to me and ask, "Where did you start this thing again?" I shrugged my shoulders.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Did somebody say that beta was bad ethics? I didnt see that. People have different views on beta, some abhor it, some dont care, some solicit it. None of it is any skin off my back.
What I do not like is unwanted beta. Unsolicited beta may not have ethical implications, its just ovebearing and inconsiderate.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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This "beta" thing is getting way too complicated for me...anymore pictures out there? Anyone else see the broken Bat Flake yet? How about the manufactured route next to Jaws?
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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i was right next to jaws yesterday. i didn't even look at it. It was awesome i raped don't rock the boat. ruff start fun rap.
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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What I do not like is unwanted beta. Unsolicited beta may not have ethical implications, its just ovebearing and inconsiderate.
100% agreed. And you can avoid reading/viewing photos.
But beta is probably as old as climbing. It has its place, as a learning tool. I've done robot-running beta ascents that left me "feeling" routes so much better than trial and error. Onsight still = the best style imo, but learning from others is key to me.
I loved the photo TR from Greg a while back (certainly had beta).
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2011 - 10:06pm PT
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Yea Gary, two guys from Rubidough (sp?) broke the end of the flake right off. Luckily nobody got hurt.
Okay Doug, I guess I'll bite.
These two guys from that other place, did you actually talk to them to find out that's where they were from? Or is that detail perhaps, just by some remote chance, some kind of an "embellishment"?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Ahahahahaha....okay Darrell, I'll admit, I DID think of you and Johnny, but then again I said, "Naaaa, couldn't be, what would Darrell be doing that close to something wide?! Oh, that's right, belaying...you guys didn't do it did you (hehe)?
You know Darrell, the beginning of that thing has your name all over it, overhanging, tips laybacking in a corner, to bomber hands...classic!
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Maybe its just cynical old me, and I sure can't see the route from my house, but I can see the date that bat flake news was posted on.
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