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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 13, 2009 - 01:34am PT
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The picture that Abe re-posted, of John soloing the last pitch of New Dimensions. He told me he was grumpy because the photographer (no names need be mentioned) had just dislodged some lichen which landed in John's eye.
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Phil Bard
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, OR
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Jul 13, 2009 - 02:43am PT
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You know I think you're right. I had completely forgotten about that.
Phil
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Jul 13, 2009 - 03:23am PT
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I was talking to Skip Guerin today. Planning a fall trip.
When he was in the valley with John in the good old (crazy) days he said they'd play "follow the leader." Can't imagine that level of fun.
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Quigg
Trad climber
Sebastopol, formerly Mammoth
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Jul 13, 2009 - 03:50am PT
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Wow, I am still in shock after a friend in Mammoth gave me the news. Even if I hadn't seen him in a while, if I called up, it was like no time had passed.
I have nothing but good memories of John. I never knew John the rockstar, I always avoided all that, I just knew my friend John.
I have so many fond memories of smoking, drinking Sierra Nevada, and playing music together in his garage studio we built together. Even as a musician John was way ahead of me, he had the flow and beauty of Coletrane, and the crazy dark genius of Miles. John would turn me on to some insane funk and jazz that I had never heard of, from his massive collection, laugh at me, and tell me I had no rhythm and played like a typical white guy.
I remember trying to beat him playing speed chess, and if I won, I knew I had done something special. When my car was stuck in the snow at 3:00AM, John was the only person that I knew wouldn't hang up on me. We must have broke about a half dozen biners trying to get my old Saab unstuck, and John just laughed, and said something about how he wasn't going to use that brand anymore if they broke that easy.
Tyrus, I'm so sorry for you, you probably don't remember me because I left town when you were still very young, but I remember when your mom brought you home from the hospital, and I remember how excited your dad was to have a son. I know how much your dad loved you, which was immensly.
Val, I'm so sorry your son no longer has a father.
Yerian, I know what John meant to you, and I share your pain bro.
Wow, I can go on and on right now because of my emotions, so I'd best not.
John, even though I haven't seen you as much as I would have liked in the last few years, you were never far from my thoughts. You always treated me with respect, and like I was somebody special, even though I am not. In so many ways, you were one of my very few great friends in life. I just can't believe you are gone, you were always so careful, you never made mistakes, you were supposed to live to be an old man. I miss you so much already, and I'll never forget you, because on top of everything else, you were truly a good hearted person. Tell everybody up there hello, and I'll see you in 50 years or so...
Todd Quigley
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quasitrad
Trad climber
Corvallis, OR
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Jul 13, 2009 - 06:02am PT
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I just found out (in New Zealand). My profound sympathy for his family and friends.
Someone posted that if feels like the day the music died and I have a similar feeling. John Bachar was a titan of his generation and a talent that seemed inextinguishable. Bachar, Kauk, Lynn Hill led the way for our generation.
I didn't know him but ran into him at various areas. It always seemed like he was just carrying shoes and a chalk bag while I carried as much gear as would fit in my pack.
The first time I did Catchy with my friend in the late 70's we were at the belay ledge above and watched Bachar free solo it. We didn't dare move or re-rack the gear with the fear that we might drop something on the Bachar. He didn't say anything to us until he reached the crux where he spent several minutes chalking an rechalking - probably trying to remove the sweat and blood we had just left on the rock. Anyway, he asked us if he could pass through and proceed up Catchy Corner. It was a nice courtesy made that much more appreciated by the fact that if he had watched us climb the first pitch (as he almost surely did) he would have known full well that there was no way in hell we were going to do the second.
Cheers to a man with the conviction to pursue his dreams. Sadness that is had to end.
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hook
Trad climber
Hailey, Idaho
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Jul 13, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
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It's been a long time since my annual trips to the Valley. I was always struck by the colorful characters I met and became friends with, many like Millis and Bardini who've already passed. But one memory I have burned in my mind was of John with sporty hat and red blinking sunglasses pulling up in front of a window at the bar one night on his stingray bike and glassing the people inside with those electric red eyes! He'll always be part of my Yosemite memories.
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Dan Christopherson
Trad climber
Orem, UT
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Jul 13, 2009 - 03:15pm PT
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I was able to see John for the first time a few months back at a very inspiring slide show. I am very sad to hear of the accident.
Thanks John for the inspiration!!!
To his son, at his presentation when asked what his greatest accomplishment was, he spoke of you.
Deepest condolences to his family and friends.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jul 13, 2009 - 07:33pm PT
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I was looking through some old e-mails, and sadly I'd deleteed most of the ones I'd recieved from John. I'd sent John a dvd of a segment of him soloing Oz in Tuolumne Meadows, here was his response after watching the segment:
"I just got the DVD...it turned out great. I just watched it and my hands are still sweaty. Damn, I did that OZ with Lonnie Kauk two summers ago (with ropes) and I can't believe I used to solo that thing all the time. That damn face traverse on the second pitch is balls out even though it;s only 10b/c."
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 13, 2009 - 09:26pm PT
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Cragman, So Much Agree. The Dude who was always about "Cheers" even when life rang tough was indeed all about People, helping and caring. He indeed walked the walk. lynne
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Deb Burton
climber
Dyer Nevada
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Jul 14, 2009 - 12:02am PT
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In case no one knew the climber reunion is this weekend. It might be a great time for us to get together to celebrate John's life. He liked comming,thrashing in the woods with his old climbing buddies. He would even serenade us on his sax. It is held at Obsidian Flat group camp. Those that have been can pass on directions. If you need directions let me know. You can also reach me via email @ dandhburton@yahoo.com.Those of you that have wondered where Hugh is can reach us at that address as well.Just for the record he is living in Nev and currently working in Mammoth, not in so cal as some thought.
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Omot
Trad climber
The here and now
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Jul 14, 2009 - 12:59am PT
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Wow. I heard about this just before heading into the backcountry for the week last Monday. I didn't know John personally, but his climbing feats were an inspiration and his insightful comments on this forum were much appreciated. From some comments here, it sounds like he really found his purpose in later life as a father. That's something we would have had in common, so I'm sorry we never got to connect and discuss fatherhood and the beauty of life. A Love Supreme.
My heartfelt condolences to family and friends.
Tomo
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jul 14, 2009 - 02:22am PT
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I wanted to keep this on the front page. Still too stunned.
Peace
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Unforgiven
Mountain climber
Dirt
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Jul 14, 2009 - 10:09am PT
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even though we never met, JB and I shared emails and talked on the phone once for a few hours.
John was so cool to talk with, he was very humble and was quick to say how awesome this climber was and how he watched another climber take free solo laps on the Rostrum which he thought was totally bad ass. JB said that he pretty much just liked to free solo single pitch stuff now unlike other guys that free soloed long routes and JB was totally amazed at what they were free soloing.
We talked about work out routines and how he admired Jack lalane and his work out method.
We exchanged emails, I sent JB some free soloing photos and john wrote back "those are some the best free soloing photos I've seen in a long time!" Thank you JB
A few times me and some buddies would be all drunk and call JB. We would leave messages saying "John your are the Focking Man!" "you Focking rule".
RIP JB
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 14, 2009 - 03:12pm PT
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I just wanted to thank those of you who've commented so
incredibly about JB. RickA, your photos have been wonderful.
Jaybro & Coz, your stories only make me wish more that I'd
been able to know John. Thank you all for the stories of
someone whose skill I'll never touch, but who's inspired me
greatly anyway.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 14, 2009 - 04:38pm PT
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Walleye, Nice story :D
In March I asked John if he'd ever considered expanding beyond slide shows because of the limited return on the investment of time and talent. We discussed his doing corporate gigs, universities, etc. and John came up with some great topics including "Inspiration, Discipline and Breaking Paradigms." Because of his philosophy of climbing and the dire need for this quality in many arenas today, I suggested we add Ethics. A great topic that could move in a variety of directions.
None of the large corporations I contacted said no they were not interested. Actually they all wanted a resume to submit to the decision makers. So John started working on his resume.
Bugged me when so few showed up in CO. for his last two slide shows. Funny how Hollywood and the false glitter attracts so many while someone who is truly great in their achievements has a lesser draw. Human beings are difficult to understand at times.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jul 15, 2009 - 10:25am PT
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bump
Peace
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 15, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
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in 1987, when i was researching an article about mount woodson, i had the pleasure of getting the stories of the first ascents of drivin' south and hear my train a' coming firsthand, from bachar. he basically just walked up to them and did 'em first try...this was in 1974.
and he was so low key about it. now, if i have my crack history chronology right, for 1974 either one of these climbs qualifies as cutting-edge for the day, in addition to being fearsome highballs with bad landings. to bachar it was just another great day of bouldering. no fanfare, no cameras, no spotters...just another day of low-key mastery. for about a year or so doing those two routes was the focus of my climbing existance and getting them both on a midweek early spring wednesday in 1977, accompanied by my bff watusi, who also did both that day...well, it was and remains one of my most cherished climbing memories. as i type this i can still smell the chapparal in the damp morning air, can still feel the immeasurable, bone deep satisfaction. i can never so much as look at those routes without thinking of bachar.
john's accompishments are, as we all know, so broad in scope that it boggles the mind. but for me it's the huge body of his bouldering legacy that really gets me. shiver me timbers, planet x, all those woodson routes, slashface...just decades and decades of superb boulder problems, each and every one destined to become a "classic", and a must-tick for any serious boulderer.
been thinking about this for days now, and for me, personally, his boulder problems were what inspired me the most, made to want to climb my very best, just for the simple joy of it all.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 15, 2009 - 08:39pm PT
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bump ftw
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 15, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
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nice bob.
i have two routes that i try to do each year, partly because they're two of my favorites and partly as yardsticks to check the depth of the rust. struck me just this week that they're both jb routes: caveman and steelfingers.
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