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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I'll be over dat shining sea tomorrow.
The only cliffs there are distinctly not sea cliffs though...
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2018 - 09:12pm PT
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Yowza! Great way to get Ed out on local rock. Cheers to all.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Well I contemplated the opening moves, but couldn't pull the trigger, I have a lot of excuses: 1) low tide revealed the barnacled rock landing awaiting a failure to unlock the opening sequence, 2) I should have worn my board shorts so as not to worry over the possibility of the "unlikely event of a water landing," and 3) the inability to focus on the climbing with the sea splashing up on the foot holds. But these are the excuses of a timid old man, and part of the challenges and the charms of the problem.
I have to say I'm intrigued by such a glorious boulder problem, a long traverse over the shining sea, in the northern suburbs of a glorious city. And the fact that this problem has such a great history, establishing "deep sea high ball bouldering" way before its contemporary popular instantiation.
Thanks for the gracious hospitality of the climbers in that picture, and to the inestimable effort of Tami to guide me to a yoga studio for Sunday practice after a busy week just preparing for the conference.
Anyway, I have another Canadian climb to add to the tick-list.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Does high tide merely obfuscate the awaiting barnies?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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yes, but sometimes all you need is a bit of obfuscation to maintain the fiction...
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Gaby coming down from (I think) an old Hans Zack/Wolfgang Gullich route on the Wall of Acids (Parede dos Acidos) in Rio
Gaby climbs a sea wall in Mar del Plata
Mellow traversing at Fleming Beach (Victoria). This place had the hardest 5.10 boulder problems (guidebook grades) I've ever seen.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2018 - 11:47am PT
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All of that is a lot of fun for me to see.
I was cruising around not long ago and found the old totems and talismans, but not the new stuff that frostback shows us.
The traverse presents psychological challenges. Over the years I've found it better to let people find out for themselves. Ed and the group he was with found the right approach. Good times.
And the imagination is happy to contemplate yoga, about which I know nothing.
edit:
And the name Gaby brings to mind a good story by the brothers Strugatsky.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I can definitely see a day of being out there and just getting used to it,
the moves aren't physically hard, the traverse is mentally committing.
But what a great spot to just sit and ponder the seeming infinity of the ocean, and the rock.
yoga is there to explain itself to you whenever you want to know more
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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^^^^^^^^
I think I remember that piece of rock. If so, after futzing around at a point somewhat lower than the climber on the left-hand side, I decided I'd be better off hiking around to set up a top rope. Turns out I was right about the meaning of "better off". My confidence was restored at Mt. Macdonald/Mt. Wells where 5.10 felt more like how I remembered it.
With respect to the changing (changed) character of the climbing scene, the same day we went to Fleming Beach, we first stopped by a local gym to have a look. It was pretty full. We didn't stay. At Fleming Beach, and the next few days at Mt. Macdonald/Mt. Wells we saw just a small handful of climbers, in spite of the stellar weather and easy access. Not to say that's a bad thing.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 10, 2018 - 12:30pm PT
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By the shining sea on the SE corner of Gambier. Somebody must have climbed on these by now?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 10, 2018 - 02:17pm PT
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I know Tim and Jimmy climbed some stuff with SUP access on Anvil. Never heard of activity on these though but I know Barley kayaks.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2018 - 06:04pm PT
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Frostback, Tricouni, Hartouni.
And the man behind the camera, with frostback, another time.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 23, 2018 - 06:22pm PT
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Kudos for wearing away the, er, moss, I guess. 😉
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2018 - 08:37pm PT
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Kudos for wearing away the, er, moss, I guess.
That is prime seagull nesting material, sir, for their little islands a ways off shore.
And a bit of useless lichen, I guess.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 24, 2018 - 09:24am PT
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This is that Troll's Chimney route on the Squamish west side crags
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2018 - 12:06pm PT
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Sounds good.
I've long known that the traverse has an apple tree. I was surprised to find this, though:
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 24, 2018 - 03:17pm PT
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SUP and third class this!
or THIS!
ps
Don’t fergit yer wing suit!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 26, 2018 - 01:14pm PT
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seems legit, 10/10 would SUP and climb
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2018 - 07:34pm PT
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A casual back-flip? Back in the thread a ways Joey Williams does one.
A guy who snorkels in the area had been wondering for years what it would be like to jump off Juniper Point. Recently he did. He did not work up to it with lower jumps, he just felt it was now or never (he is not young). His landing wasn't the best but he was going on as usual when I saw him. Next time I saw him he said the x-rays (or MRI?) showed a fracture in his femur. Props.
From the old cliff-jumper from somewhere near the traverse:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Oct 14, 2018 - 02:49am PT
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It's an important and popular fact that things are not always what they seem. For instance, on the planet Earth, man had always assumed that he was more intelligent than dolphins because he had achieved so much – the wheel, New York, wars, and so on – whilst all the dolphins had ever done was muck about in the water having a good time. But conversely, the dolphins had always believed that they were far more intelligent than man – for precisely the same reasons.
Curiously enough, the dolphins had long known of the impending destruction of the planet Earth and had made many attempts to alert mankind to the danger; but most of their communications were misinterpreted as amusing attempts to punch footballs or whistle for titbits, so they eventually gave up and left the Earth by their own means shortly before the Vogons arrived.
The last ever dolphin message was misinterpreted as a surprisingly sophisticated attempt to do a double-backwards-somersault through a hoop whilst whistling the ‘Star-Spangled Banner’,
but in fact the message was this:
So Long, and thanks for all the fish.
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