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treeman
climber
mule city
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Oct 10, 2009 - 09:00pm PT
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Nice one RB! I lost lots of blood on that thing.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Oct 12, 2009 - 02:25pm PT
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Those Flag guys killed it....still do!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 12, 2009 - 02:28pm PT
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You got Tequila? Allls I got was beans!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Oct 12, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
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Yeah Bro, and your hair would get smeared in to the dollop. We were told if we removed the beans "They" would find us and....
Here Here!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 12, 2009 - 02:34pm PT
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In the right light, I can still see it in the mirror it was either '86 or '87...
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R.B.
Trad climber
AZ-WA
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Oct 16, 2009 - 12:47am PT
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1982 FA photo of "Secret Journey, 5.9, A3+, Rand Black, Dave Houchin" a 150 foot free standing sandstone pinnacle aid climb at 34.9315º N; 111.6798º W; 5,266 msl. near Secret Canyon, Arizona.
First Ascent took over 5 hours to lead, because R.B. was too scared to climb past the hibernating hornets in the thin crack. Finally found the courage and drilled a baby angle to runout a coupla free moves or two to the top. Then got to Rap off two tied off brittle bushes all the way back down. Much Fun!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Oct 16, 2009 - 09:30am PT
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Nice shot of the Unicorn FFA. Thanks for posting!
That crack has a few bats in it these days. Heard them
squeaking it up in there a couple of weeks ago.
More!!!
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R.B.
Trad climber
AZ-WA
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Oct 17, 2009 - 01:09pm PT
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Love this one at the Mountain ... my favorite way to the base of Slammer Jam
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R.B.
Trad climber
AZ-WA
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Oct 17, 2009 - 01:16pm PT
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Mike Long Leading Rhythm and Blues - 5.10b, at the top of Troon Mountain, Windy Walks, Scottsdale McDowell Mtns.; Circa. 1982
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 17, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
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I believe I have the first onsight free solo of that one...
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R.B.
Trad climber
AZ-WA
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Oct 23, 2009 - 01:29am PT
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RB leads on 30º overhanging sandstone of formation Todd Applewhite and myself called "The Cape." An overhanging sandstone junction upstream from the Ultimate Finger Crack/Dihedrals, etc. in Oak Creek Canyon/Pumphouse Wash Junction ... For the Record, I was so scared after drilling and hooking on the lithified sand dunes of the Coconino Sandstone of the 30º overhanging sandstone ... I was 70 feet up on the hypoteneuse and was looking at only maybe falling 25 feet onto jagged talus sharp sandstone blocks ... needless to say ... drilled a baby angle at the high point and BAILED with my tail between my legs! (on a side note) the crack to the right of this I did with Todd in 1986 (or so) and was awesomely excellent ... a route called "Saved by Zero, A3" (don't have any pics of it) .. RB
PS - The angle is actually pretty close ... it's way steep!
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2009 - 07:51am PT
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RB: just down from Jungle Wall? By the old Middendorf Aid lines?
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Oct 26, 2009 - 12:57am PT
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Where's Houchin these days ?
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R.B.
Trad climber
AZ-WA
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Oct 26, 2009 - 11:37pm PT
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Pate -- Thanks for the Bump
Mister E -- not sure where duecy did his lines but I am sure it is upstream from there the Lat/Long/Elev I estimate the area of the "Cape" to be:
35.0354ºN; 111.7148ºW; 6130 MSL (it's a major drainage junction)
PK Davidson -- The last time I hung with Dave H. was back in about 2002, when he came up from AZ to visit me where I live now, in Enumclaw, WA.
If you want to contact him contact Jim Gaun in Flagstaff ... he can hook you up with Dave.
 Great to hear from you all -- I am sure there is more to this thread to be discovered.
RB
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Oct 28, 2009 - 06:13pm PT
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Oh, Mister E, I wish you wouldn't refer to those aid routes as "Mddendorf" lines. That one was Todd's project, he had drilled the ladder on first pitch, I only came along at some later date and led the second pitch with him. The second pitch was more natural, and fairly spooky if I recall correctly, but it was still a pretty vague line going nowhere. Steep wall, though, Todd was pretty bold in that respect.
I like to think of myself of more of a free climber, outside of Yosemite and Zion. Aid climbing in Sedona was more of a sideline--of the 100's of routes I climbed in Sedona, only three were aid: the first pitch of "the Tooth" (solo), the Mushroom (with Stan Mish), and the second pitch of Todd's project.
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Oct 28, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
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RB, I have a battered old copy of your G. Mtn. topo that I hate to lose, and which is rapidly fading away. Any chance you have additional copies? I would gladly pay replacement/shipping/beer... Thanks for the awesome topo and routes, Atch
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Oct 28, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
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I used to run into Dave H. here and there around Phoenix, but haven't in a long time.
RB: I asked this a long time back, but do you know if the free version of the Nose at Granite Mountain has had a repeat? Thx.
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bob
climber
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Oct 28, 2009 - 06:36pm PT
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I'll pay for that too!! Seriously.
Bob J.
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Oct 28, 2009 - 06:46pm PT
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I have the Waugh (red), and Lovejoy guides. The RB topo was awesome as it showed lines not in the Waugh and Lovejoy guide and was the same size as the El Cap topo posters. Unfortunately, it didn't survive well in the pack...
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
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Sorry, Deucey - That's what Bloom calls 'em. I'll pass the word along.
BTW, there is only one aid line in the new Sedona guide, and it's in the Church area.
Thanks for the clarification, Erik
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