Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2011 - 12:52am PT
|
Good luck on what has to be a big undertaking Greg.
Expecting over 1200 routes - not surprising given how many boulders are on that hill. It's actually more surprising its not expected to be over 2400 - better get busy Johan (Johnny) and help get that count up to something more respectable than a paltry, pitiful 1200.
How much activity is there on the Everest side? I've heard that it's become pretty seriously grown over with poision oak. And that the glue ons are in complete dis-repair (debatable if that's any loss). I haven't been over there for quite a few years - not since Bedford took me up there in an attempt to thrash me on the glue-ons.
ok, so he might have succeeded in thrashing me a teeny little bit. The glue-ons were kind of fun even though they were (are?) an abomination. I recall some of the stuff over there looking pretty good. How much developed stuff is on that side anyway?
|
|
BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 12:54am PT
|
mebbe u shud rite right write one.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 02:07am PT
|
This is from rc.com. (http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/San_Diego_County/Mt_Everest/Glue_Ups/);
I took this back in '09...
"Frozen in Time" the Glue Ups still remain after nearly two decades of weather and two fires. Although, I would deem the wall unsafe to be climbed on (brittle holds and unsafe draws and anchors), the routes remain as a testament to the boldness of the enthusiasts back in the day. It was quite a site to behold then and still is to this day. A motivated crew could reestablish this outdoor gymnasium back into the craze of its day.
Park in the turn out before the yellow house on the south side of 67 and walk 130 paces, with traffic, to a cairn that marks the beginning of the trail (before the yellow street sign)".
The ropes you see in the photo are fixed to the rusted chains/anchors on top, and are in tatters (sheath missing, core exposed), etc, as are the draws that you can see. Remnants of Bondo, holds, misc., in cardboard boxes are found tucked in at the base of the rock.
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 03:23am PT
|
I cleared a trail up to everest a few months ago. Someone has been climbing up their regularly. They go through that houses driveway. And have kept the rest of the trails clear. I haven't got up to the glue ups yet but i should soon.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 03:39am PT
|
Horvath, if you are going to try to document all the little obscure problems on the hill, 1200 might cover the playground and south slope. On the entire hill? (x10). Take it from someone who knows, you are writing the never ending story, and no matter how hard you try all you will get is grief. And if these kids ever learn how to explore, god help the scribe.
Nonetheless, good luck! Just be sure you do a good job.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 03:46am PT
|
C. McKnight below the opening mantle of Soylent Green on Mt. Everest, followed by two more bolts and the crux, summit block above, 5.10c...
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 04:00am PT
|
Mt Everest is ok, but K2 is spectacular (the obvious giant boulder with curving crack 3/4 up the hill). Leavitt put up a bolted 5.11d called Magic Line, thats the best lead in the county. Starting left of the crack, face climbing leads to vertical climbing on the arete thats really good despite the enhanced holds. The crux is moving from the arete to a shallow dish out on the face, where you assume at least 80 feet of dead vertical exposure. An unlikely line of horizontal scoops and humps on what appears to be a blank wall takes you to the dead center of the face, and right where the scoops run out, a line of holds magically appears that takes you to the top.
Good stuff
The follower needs to be on his game
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 04:12am PT
|
I say, do your best documenting the boulders and their problems and leave it open-ended for expansion in future guide-books. The guide book isn't for those familiar with the mountain but for the opposite, the first time, and returning visitors!
I just ran into a kid the other day with his pad, walking up the road near Hamburger Crack, with a San Diego County guidebook in his hand. In conversation he told me it was his first time up on the mountain and that he was trying to orient himself with the book, but gave up, and decided to just head up the mountain and look for boulders along the road and occasionally take a trail that he happened upon. He said he could accomplish alot more this way as opposed to trying to follow the guide-book. As we all know, these are the most common remarks you get from visitors to Woodson and what a lot of us went through back in the day until you ran into someone familiar with the area and they took you under their wing.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 04:30am PT
|
... really good despite the enhanced holds. You got chutzbah.
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 02:19pm PT
|
Darrel and Ron, I completely agree about the number, in retrospect, I shouldn't have put one out there. I agree that Woodson has the potetential for significantly more than the number I gave.
I'm really just going for as many as possible with the understanding that it is an impossible task.
And Gary, your point is well taken and actually was the main motivation for writing the guidebook. I did not fall in love with woodson untill after two years of climbing there. The first couple I was just so fed up with not being able to find anything. I read somewhere that Robbins sayed he loved guidebooks, because if done properly, they allow a new climber or visitor to maximize their climbing time in an unfamiliar area. That's my goal.
|
|
F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
|
Mt Everest
photo credits Tom Scott
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2011 - 12:39pm PT
|
Nice pics Tom!
Did we meet at Hamburger crack a couple weeks ago?
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2011 - 01:24am PT
|
Where the arete turns vertical there are 3 dinner plate sized flakes, all of which have been broken, resulting in nice flat holds that are crucial to the climb. It is possible, against all odds, that the top of all 3 broke off under use and every one left a perfect hold. Possible, but highly improbable. Can I say with certainty that the flakes were doctored? No, but it sure looks that way. Whatever the case, I had nothing to do with it. I only climbed the route, and while I was dismayed at the apparent heavy handed tactics of the first ascent, it was an exciting and difficult climb with lots of exposure, and I really enjoyed climbing it.
How is that chutzpah?
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2011 - 01:34am PT
|
Johannsolo strikes again. John Weinberg on one of two new routes he put up today, both on this recently discovered face, both 5.12. Rick Allenby belaying.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2011 - 02:22am PT
|
Now, that's what I like to see, the "hip belay," nice job Rick! All you needed to complete the picture was a "bowline on a coil" Johnny.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
|
"Thin is in"
As discovery of new cracks disappear, thin face problems lead the way.
Perfect weather for the thin stuff, cool and cloudy.
Johnny on "Fly By Night"
Johnny working one of his new projects.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
|
Well dammit Russ, if you woulda said that 20 years ago I coulda drug you down here to see how far you get on the Woodson mantle circuit. We got em hard, but you have to know where to look.
But since I am old and feeble now I can only say "ok for you, mr. poopy pants"
|
|
dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2011 - 03:23pm PT
|
Anyone heading out to Woodson this week that would mind if I tagged along. I'd like to get to know the place better.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2011 - 01:10am PT
|
I saw a baby rattlesnake in the middle of the road on Woodson the other day, and it brough the following to mind.
Rattlesnakes are more prevalent on the hill in the springtime, but thats not a cause for fear, just caution. Rattlesnakes want nothing to do with you, and are docile and quick to retreat when given the chance. If they know you are coming and have time to get away they will, so walk slowly with heavy steps, and keep your eyes on the ground in front of you when moving through snake territory. A startled snake often reacts by striking.
I cant count the number of rattlesnake encounters Ive had on Woodson, and never once did I feel like I was in danger of being attacked, because none of them were agitated. I either waited for them to slither away or changed course and went around them. Awareness is the key to safety. Here are some things to keep in mind:
 A coiled snake is an agitated snake and will strike. Rattlers can strike twice their body length from a coiled position, so give it wide berth. A snake that is laying with its body in tight "S" curves is also coiled.
Rattlers come in many colors and patterns, and blend into the surrounding terrain so well they can be nearly invisible. Any stick on the trail could be a snake, so stay alert.
Snakes that are laying in the sun or have just eaten are lethargic and arent going to move, so best to go around them.
Dont try to get a snake to move by throwing things at it or prodding it with a stick, stay a safe distance and stomp your feet.
A rattler only rattles when hes really pissed, so if you hear the rattle get out of that immediate area. Rattlers move unbelievably fast.
Dont kill rattlesnakes. Its their home and we are the intruders.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2011 - 02:29am PT
|
I went up alone, late in the afternoon, to play with my new "toy", a #5 Camelot on Mother Superior. I set up a self belay on a fixed line and went to work figuring out gear placements for a future lead attempt on the lady. I really don't care what "style" I do the thing in I just want to be able to lead it clean someday. It's a bad problem for such an attempt for a fall will likely bounce you onto the slab behind you before sliding into the chasm below and loading your pro. Either way, it was fun to dog the problem and figure out the placements (knee abrasions and bruises included). The bottom forces you to ride the #5 along as you progress higher, as to avoid getting entangled in it. I found that getting past the said cam was a problem so by placing a #4 above, while in the second to the last knee pod, you can remove the #5 and drop it to the floor or attach it to the rope and let it slide to the bottom. You can ride the #4 up above the last knee pod, while you struggle to gain the hands section above. A #3 slots easily here while you gain a good stance out on the face out right. Getting kinda pumped at this point, I was able to slot a #5 HB nut perfectly into the seam between the two diagonaling ramps (a micro-cam would also work a bit lower but, to tell you the truth, this "old schooler" didn't even think of it at the time). This would be the last pro while you run it out to the top. I'm probably going to drop a long sling with a biner attached, from the TR anchors, to protect the top, this will keep you from decking onto the slab below.
Again, I'm just looking for a "variation on a theme", to add to the workout that MS already proposes. Maybe someday I'll get it! I wish I had more photogenic pictures but this is all I came up with...
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!