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REIGN 1
Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
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Jan 13, 2010 - 02:42am PT
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Illusion, I know Troy and Marty but I haven't seen those guys in 20 years.
The sail had three routes on the face the left arete, center and right side. There is two sets of bolts on the top. If you climb up the left backside to set up a tr, the bolts you come to first are for spellbinder and the other bolt is for the center route. Henny will be trying the right side route. Another good slab route is on the huge boulder you walk by on the way to fall semester. The start is probably the crux but you have to stay on your game because it's not over till it's over. It's called 'Joni after school'. The same guys that put that route up also put up the two leads that you get to by walking past fall semester. If I remember right, One had 7 bolts and the other had 5? Pretty good leads for slab climbing.
Does anybody ever do that thin seam on the boulder next to jaws anymore? That little thing was really good.
I'll probably think of problems the more time I spend up there.
P.S. Are the Hatchet Bros making big mountain snowboard films? I thought I saw Dave's name in the credits in a film I saw.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 10:17am PT
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Troy is still in Ramona and have seen him up on Woodson with a friend/b.i.t.d. climber named Keith (about Troy's age), you may know him as well. Apparently they work laying tile, etc. in construction together. Although, Troy has suddenly dropped off the map and isn't returning phone calls. I'm trying to get his butt up the mountain for this as well. He's taken up riding motorcycles, with crazy stories of him still busting up his body at fifty something years old! I thought he mentioned something about you involved in MC's as well? Something happened to Marty, head injury? or something, but apparently is still kickin' as well. I don't recall where Troy said he is now.
Now you're talking Don! I've been waiting for someone else to mention those slabs past Fall Semester for years! I recall watching Epi on it way back when after it was first put up. I think I recall him saying, " I haven't been on something like this since the Apron!" I never got a chance to get on it but I remember it being a steep slab with about about 5-7 bolts (yep, five to seven bolts on Woodson!) that arched up and right, another Woodson 11c if I recall. I've tried to find that thing a number of times since then but keep getting choked out by manzanita. I don't know what else to do! I know if Johnny finds it he'll do an awesome job clearing a way to that thing for the Shindig! And, while they're down on that ridge, someone has to show these guys Vice Principals Office, for with their motivation, have a path cleared to it too!
Btw, the foilage around that thin seam next to Jaws has been groomed, cleared out and pampered by Johnny and crew. I have to admit, I haven't seen it that clean and tidy ever! They did a good job. I told Johnny that I got an ascent, I'll call it by accident for I'm not that good, one day while alone way back when. Everything must have come together that afternoon. Johnny definitely has his eye on it though! ("Johnny", how many times have I mentioned his name? Sheesh!)
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jan 13, 2010 - 11:05am PT
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The seam next to Jaws, I would die for you, is really good but very sharp. I'm getting pretty close to sending that one. Looks like the left foot hold to start has broke but still a small edge to back step on. Anyone know about the face left of Mighty Edge and the left arete? Kind of bigger T.V screen but harder. Just down and right of the hairpin by Shaun's Knobs(toward Hwy 67). We chopped it out and that face is clearly visible now from the Jaws area.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 11:13am PT
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So, heading down the hill it'd be on the right toward 67 correct? Heading uphill it'd be on the left.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jan 13, 2010 - 11:47am PT
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Yes, down a dirt path for maybe 60 feet South of the hairpin and look to the right.
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REIGN 1
Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
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Jan 13, 2010 - 12:11pm PT
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I would die for you, I loved that problem. I doubt any foot holds have broke on that one. here weren't really any to begin with. hahaha
I remember one foot hold was a sucker hold and the one to use was just about the thickness of a credit card..
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 13, 2010 - 12:27pm PT
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ok, The Sail just went high on the list. Looks and sounds good. Donny, did you put those problems up?
Gary, unfortunately I have done two of the three problems you mentioned. Eppy took me down for some schoolin' on Fall Semester once. I remember that one being pumpy. Eppy also took me to Aids Victim. I remember that one being super good. Managed to on-sight it, then came back a few years later and was almost clueless.
I was wondering what else was down by Fall Semester. I've only been down there the one time with Eppy and don't remember much of anything about the area. Bolted routes make it sound like big boulders, is everything in that area big? New potential?
(Gary - I'd be willing to lend a hand and belay on MS)
Edit: 'Joni after school' is a toprope?
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 12:44pm PT
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Yep, things are big down there! Phd is about a 50' flake/face as you saw Piggot on it earlier in the thread or did you? Looks like Donny will be able to locate those 5-7 bolt problems down the ridge from Fall Semester.
Here's Rick again from where he took his 40' ground fall and walked away from it but this time setting up on hooks for hand drilling...
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 13, 2010 - 12:57pm PT
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I did see the picture of Phd earlier up thread which was why I didn't ask much about it. Looks brilliant.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jan 13, 2010 - 02:07pm PT
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Not Big Ugly. The face I'm refering to faces East. I pointed it out to Donny from Uncertainty Principle who said he did the right arete (Mighty Edge?). The face and left arete would be very hard if climbable at all.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 13, 2010 - 02:48pm PT
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Yeah "I would die for you" is cool! First done back in the day by Dick Cilley. A photo of me on it(by epps)was actually on a T-Shirt for one of those contests BITD.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 03:04pm PT
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Wow, nice bit of history Mike, thanks!
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 03:05pm PT
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1. ? Ron Kauk
2. ? Rick Piggot
3. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
6. Greg Epperson (our local "famous" photographer)
7. Klimmer
8. Off White
8.1 Salad
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. BeeHay aka Brad H.
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. looking sketchy there aka Randy Vogel
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David (no-show)
21. mungeclimber
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud aka Claudio
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44. Steve Belford
45. Karen Roseme
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Kevin Powell aka Dimes
49. Dr. Sprock
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny (with psychiatrist)
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss (Hosting Post Climb Party Sat. March 20th. Camping At Same Site Still Available 03/19-20, MUST CONFIRM VIA EMAIL BY FEB 10!)
59. Mike (http://www.ClimbinCalifornia.com);
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. James aka F10
63. ? Bluering
64. Tom Scott
65. GDavis
66. Dan Beal
67. ? Ed Hartouni
68. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
69. Porkchop_express
70. Chas
71. Johnny aka Johannsolo
72. Melissa
73. Schaffer
74. Nefarious
75. Tim
76. Jason
77. Gary Carpenter
78. "Mo" aka Reese Montana
79. Mo's brother
80. Matt
81. Dave Evans aka Dee ee
82. Anxious Melancholy
83. Diablo aka Jeff Almadovar
84. REIGN1 aka Donny Bedford
85. Roger Barnes
86. Dan Hauglestine
87. em knOt aka Nurse Ratchett
88. Daphne
89-90. ? Tom and Elkie Lindner
91. ? Chris Lindner
92. Gonamuck aka Ron Amick
93. Dave Wonderly aka Tapes
94. Graham N
95. Dr. F
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gonzo chemist
climber
the Twilight Zone of someone else's intentions
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Jan 13, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
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holy cripes, people. Whatever you do, watch out for the damn poison oak! Was out there on Sunday and now my right leg is breaking out. Many thanks to those of you chopping out some of the overgrown areas, even while putting yourselves in harm's way!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 13, 2010 - 06:04pm PT
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Yeah careful when you're out there bushwacking people...You just never know what you're gonna run into...
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Graham N
Social climber
temecula
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Jan 13, 2010 - 07:36pm PT
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ill be there, not that anyone would know me. haha. maybe ill handle some of the PO whacking since that stuff doesnt really make me break out too bad.
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Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
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Jan 13, 2010 - 08:21pm PT
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I haven't been on the Super Taco for months.
So as I wondered if there was some kind of gathering coming up, click click and I find this.
Can't wait, I'll be there.
Dave Wonderly aka Tapes
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jan 13, 2010 - 09:37pm PT
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YEAH Dave!!!!! Great to hear from you and man I can't wait to see you. Gonna be some slandering and bantering going on....Henny and Dimes gonna be there so what else would you expect. You'll be getting an email from me soon, I'm gonna be trying to get all the regular old timers out to this event. That NOW includes YOU!
Peace
say hey to Jen
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jan 14, 2010 - 01:10am PT
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Same as it ever was...
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