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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 16, 2009 - 02:34am PT
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Nate,
Yeah we think that route may have been done before not sure though. It all comes back to the 'obvious' qn.
More pics to come....If you guys get bored stop by and say hi this weekend - we'll be at our current home (8 weeks now :)
Gotta set up the bar this weekend...
kev
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jul 17, 2009 - 12:15am PT
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Nice pics Kev and thanks for cleaning out that site.
Nate, I think Pete said he did that corner. No matter, it sure is sweet. My line, A Dream within a Dream, and the original var are shown in Kevs photo below.
Kev, are you guys gonna be out there Sun and Mon?
Jeff
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Jul 17, 2009 - 01:09am PT
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Looks cool Tork, met you and the wife at Shuteye a few years back. Ya'll were camped out across the road from Nate and I.
Ever been to LE?
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 17, 2009 - 01:50am PT
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I'll be there friday pm till monday pm this weekend, and will prolly be there every weekend for a while. Why break tradition this is week 8 in a row...I'll also be there either the 24th-1st or more likely the 31st - 1st. Might wander over to LE sunday PM. See everyone this weekend!
kev
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the ground up
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Jul 17, 2009 - 03:22am PT
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Looks fun up there .
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jul 17, 2009 - 09:58am PT
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Tiki, been there once. Way cool.
Who all will be out there this weekend? No partner, who can I join?
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Jul 17, 2009 - 10:36am PT
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Tork, Nate and I will be there as will several others.
Please swing by and say hello. I'll be there tonite thru Sunday!
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Jul 17, 2009 - 12:47pm PT
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Nice work kev! Those are some cherry lines. Way to get them done. 8 weeks is a long time but it looks like its paying off big time.
That roof shot is sweet! I want to come check them out ASAP but I screwed up my back.
Its going to be a hot one this weekend so bring lots of beer... um water...
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jul 17, 2009 - 10:18pm PT
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Grahm, sorry to hear about your back, what did you do?
How early does Chiquito get sun?
Does anyone know if the road is clear all the way to the top of Chiquito, heard a tree was blocking the way earlier this year.
Tiki, are you gonna be at Lost? What's the shade sitch out there?
I think Gray has the most shade potential. Looks like Kev is working a new route there on the far right that gets shade most of the day. Anyone up for Gray?
I have Sun & Mon off for sure and am on call for work tomorrow til 9am, so good chance I will have most of Sat.
Jeff
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Jul 18, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
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Bout once a year for no good reason the muscles in the middle of my back go into spasm and it hurts like hell. Takes a week for them to relax and stop hurting. I am thinking of trying some of them black arts and seeing if acupuncture will help.
Chiquito gets morning sun till late afternoon. I haven't chainsawed the tree out of the way yet. Its possible other users have. Its been too hot for Chiquito lately. I am waiting for Fall.
Lost has the same sun situation but maybe goes into the shade a bit earlier.
Heres info on some new routes on 50 5.7's:
Three Stooges Wall : Follow the creek down to where the wall gets the closest to the water.
A. 10c - 25m- 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor - Start off of a large white slab at the base of a rust colored section of the wall. More pitches to come. FA: Urmas Franosch and Hunter Sibbald 7-09
These three routes share the same starting area under a detached pinnacle.
B. 11b - LARRY - 30m - 10 bolts, ring anchor - Head a little left over the blocks and then back right and up the slab to the big ledge. Optional 1” piece before first bolt. Climb up the arête. One more optional 1” piece to get the high bolt. Power through a steep dihedral and bulge to the anchor. FA: Urmas Franosch and Hunter Sibbald 7-09
C. 11b - MOE - 35m - 7 bolts, gear to 3", shared chain anchor - Follow a right trending crack a short ways before climbing the left side of the pinnacle. Continue up through a steep featured dihedral and bulge. FA: Urmas Franosch and Hunter Sibbald 7-09
D. 11b - CURLY - 35m - 4 bolts, gear to 3", shared chain anchor - Follow a right trending crack through the right side of the pinnacle. Follow the crack / seam up to an undercling and power through a bulge. FA: Urmas Franosch and Shayd Otis 6-09
E. 10b - Lucky 7’s - 60m - 7 bolts, 7 slings for horns and a few gear placements up to 2” - A full 200 feet of knob climbing. Climb B, C, or D to the 35m anchor. Head straight up the dome and through the big pillar of stacked blocks. Continue up to a left trending dike to reach the steeper head wall. Giant knobs and tuffas lead to the top of the dome. Sling giant horns at the top for the anchor which is 10 feet below a bush and summit boulders. FA Grahm Doe, Leo Miner 7-09
F. 10b - 3 Pitch - Gear to 4" - Hike right of Three Stooges. Head up the crack systems to the top of the dome. FA: Urmas Franosch and Hunter Sibbald 7-04
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jul 19, 2009 - 12:49am PT
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Thanks for the info Grahm. Good luck with the pins and needles.
Jeff
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 20, 2009 - 11:47pm PT
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Grahm,
Sorry about your back - perhaps you should avoid the pins and needles and just try some good old fashioned Jack?
Actually my ankle is torched right now so I feel your pain in much more than a figurative way.
I think we're there for pretty much the whole season or until a rattler gets us. We had a bit of a scare getting wood for the fire last night.
Jeff,
You've got to come by some time. The parking situation is much improved! Yeah, I'm working something over on the right side, John and Sue have a bunch of stuff floating around too.
Anyhow I'll post up some pics this week - I'll even throw in the bonus movie!
cheers all
kev
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Jul 20, 2009 - 11:52pm PT
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Hey Kev, nice seeing you guys again!! Nice meeting you Mucci. And of course John and Sue. Can't wait for the tour ya'll.
Did you guys encounter some buzzworms?
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jul 21, 2009 - 01:37am PT
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Hey Jer,
Good times on Saturday. Thanks for showin' us around. We hit those pools on the way back....unbelievable. We were so dehydrated I was having vision issues in my left eye. We hadn't been out for a while so we went pretty hard for a couple weekend warriors. Total of 5 routes and nine pitches on two formations separated by 15 miles of road, door to door home by 9:00pm. Fun day. We actually thought the second pitch 5.8 sections on Funnel Runnel were kinda tough. Between those two upper bolts and that skinny left leaning corner, it was kinda slippery. Thanks to you and Nate for sharing the place. We'll keep it on the DL. See you around.
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 03:07pm PT
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Nice to see that Urmas is still getting it. I like that guy and his routes too. He sucks as a TELE skiier....I so have to get me butt there. Reeder talks so highly of it and the pics he has are amazing. Heading to Tahoe for a guick trip maybe I will get there before school starts in late Aug. Keep on getting IT!
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Jul 21, 2009 - 04:00pm PT
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Lost Boys & Beagle Cru ~
Anyone run up 'Todays Gift' at LE? Glad all enjoyed the pools. Speaking of which.....some of us here in the climbing community need to work on their "Give A Hoot" ethics. Diving for beer bottle caps and fishing out plastics cups should not be happening at such a special place. Walk the walk.
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 05:42pm PT
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All,
Mooch is right and on that note here a msg for all the smokers in the area....
We all (if not, you'd better start) pocket our butts. HOWEVER WATCH OUT if you jump in the swimming holes they can sneak out of your pockets. So clear the pockets of crap before swimming. Let's keep this place pristine!
On a side note canned beer doesn't have glass to break or tops to loose so consider getting hydrated with crappy cans!
Your crap beer spokesman,
kev
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 21, 2009 - 07:04pm PT
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Yeah, this is my go-to cragging package...
Now I'm thirsty.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jul 21, 2009 - 07:36pm PT
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That's right folks, pack it in pack it out. That includes tp, or at least burn it. Finding a lot of tp sticking out of a lot of rocks at Gray.
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 07:55pm PT
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Jeff,
I've been puzzled by that one too. We've been good about cleaning stuff up but I keep seeing stuff around there, and honestly have been confused by it. There was stuff at the 'new/old' site when we cleared it out. I've been wondering if there's a garbage bag hiding around there somewhere and stuffs driftin in but it hasn't been windy either. Any ideas - I'm really puzzled on this one? What I've seen is not TP but paper towels.
Also there's some crap right off the road now which seems to be growing. I wonder if others have been up there? We have seen a few motorcycles on the road once or twice and something was leaking a fluid on the road (i'm guessing and OHV).
I did a little experiment Monday and will let you know the results in a week. I'll email you about it.
FYI other than mile high point the only trash friendly places are the FS campground off the road heading down to the reservoir.
I practically got attacked by the campground host trying to put a bag down in the trash at rock creek or whatever campgrounds are right off 81...Seems like a silly policy - the FS want to encourage people to keep stuff clean, no? Moreover we're talking about a single garbage bag.
Also watch out there a rattler living in the wood pile above the new site - we met him sunday PM...
kev
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