Arizona Climbing Appreciation thread

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bob

climber
Aug 30, 2009 - 11:03pm PT
GBU is one of the best free climbs I've done. Felt like big wall climbing.
So good.
Bob J.
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Aug 31, 2009 - 12:43pm PT
SO many nuggity sections up there, right?!
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Aug 31, 2009 - 10:21pm PT
Great write up Mike. I well remember Larry still being pumped the next day, and the next, and the next....

Bob, well done. That's exactly how I remember it. Zip up to the move and then do it without considering the consequences. But I do recall it being a nice little gem. Probably deserves a bolt or two to make it repeatable. If someone wants to do it in the first style, they could just no clip the bolts...

Greg: Thanks for posting that up from Lovejoy's guide (one of my prized books!)

The free climbing on Altar of the Sun never got above 5.11 but there was some testy 5.10 and crispy 5.11. I've always really liked girdles but they are not for everyone. You don't really get a rest on the second.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 4, 2009 - 03:08pm PT
500 posts, how many other States could garner that many?
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Sep 4, 2009 - 03:28pm PT
This is GM specific, but kinda lame- more touchy feely than
anything.
http://supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=778767&tn=0

Steelmonkey has some good MTN stuff in this thread too
http://supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=635632&tn=0
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 5, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
Five hundred and we ain't even getting going. Whole lotta hot rock in AZ!

Shot in the Dark?!?
Prezwoodz

Big Wall climber
Anchorage
Sep 6, 2009 - 05:58pm PT
Well I'm never one to miss out on a picture thread. Arizona has been good to me.

John Borland and Mt. Hayden

Mace Descent

In deep on the Mace

Mars Attacks Traverse

More Mars Attacks

Windows Route Fun, Sedona

The formation that holds Mars Attacks and some other great cracks.
(that is a big pano, click here for a larger version http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/425271134_coxgh-X3.jpg )

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 7, 2009 - 01:23am PT
VERY NICE SHOTS!!!
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Sep 8, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
Sa-weeeeet!
MisterE

Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2009 - 02:51pm PT
Excellent shots, PW!

And who hasn't enjoyed the flared grovelfest of "The Pirate" (5.10d) at The Cathedrals? Tom Grundy leading:



Manny

Social climber
tempe
Sep 8, 2009 - 04:24pm PT
Here's The Dr. on the Labor Day weekend's trip to Winslow. We spent a day out of the storm in the canyon. David jumped on Slap My Fro after I did Dark Star, a lovely OW.

I'm just getting into the wider part:

David Bloom on another great AZ climb:
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 11, 2009 - 11:26am PT
"Slap my fro"? Manny, you're speakin' my language, tell me more!
kwit

climber
california
Sep 13, 2009 - 01:23pm PT
hey all,

this girl is headed to paradise forks for 4 days end of september. maybe winslow wall. so excited--haven't been AZ climbing in years.

any beta on camping near PF (official CG or dispersed better? i can't remember what that little campground like or how close it is to the crag)?

good warmups (5.8/9) and must-do routes (i'll be scared sh*tless leading the low 10s there, but partner will be cruising hard 10s/easy 11s and he loves o/w)...?

and how far is winslow wall from PF?

thanks everyone. all beta appreciated. k
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Sep 13, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
You can camp in any one of a few sites found in the forest just pas t the turnoff for the Forks on the opposite side of the road.
Can't miss it, first right turn after passing the Forks lot. Just in case...camping in the parking lot for the Forks is strictly not allowed!

Not that many routes in the 5.8 to 5.9 range... try the Pillow Wall, Black Rose, Mayflower and Fool's Game on the Prow.

Lots of info here:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/paradise_forks/105787813
MisterE

Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2009 - 01:12pm PT
Some more Sedona maps I have been working on:


donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 17, 2009 - 09:35pm PT
Arizona has really great climbing, ESPECIALLY, if you avoid Queen Creek- Yuk!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Sep 17, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
Wonder where you went climbing in Queen Creek?

There are some pretty good routes there... and we're trying to save the place from being caved in by a copper mine, so have a little respect!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 5, 2009 - 10:21am PT
Nice, Rox!
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Oct 5, 2009 - 02:39pm PT
ROX!!!
Well, you are definitely older than me! Whether you're more American, well...... ;^}

Core shots dude.

Edit-
ROX, the Beanfest still happens, though I have a feeling it's a bit different these days.
I was first beaned in 87 at the East Stronghold. Restrained, and intimidated by the Beanmaster and his henchmen, a bottle of tequila held to my mouth, I was inducted. Those were wild times for a grom just starting to climb, made even more intense by the fungus amongus.
R.B.

Trad climber
AZ-WA
Oct 10, 2009 - 08:34pm PT

FFA photo of The Unicorn at G.M.; Circa. 1985. James Gaun of Flagstaff, leading the ultra sharp, perfectly parallel fingertip crack ... Route is between Falling Ross, 2nd Pitch -- and -- Dream Weaver on the Right side of the mountain, seconded and thirded by Tim Toula, Rand Black.

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