Wings of Steel

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Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 6, 2011 - 05:23pm PT
Double standard, or more.

Sure wish someone would try a repeat of Turning Point, in as close to the original style as possible. No fudging.
S.Leeper

Sport climber
Pflugerville, Texas
Jul 6, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
C'mon guys, it was a total joke, and he knew I was kidding. There was absolutely no offence taken.

So it should be cool with the millions of Mexicans in the states then?
I agree, not funny ahole joke.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 6, 2011 - 05:58pm PT
Anyone can make a mistake, I'll dismiss the a$$hole part but still, it was an insensitive comment.
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Jul 6, 2011 - 06:17pm PT
Jeebus, you guys ever work anywhere ethnically mixed? Cracks like that are almost compliments.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jul 6, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
Jeebus, you guys ever work anywhere ethnically mixed? Cracks like that are almost compliments.


White people like to be offended for other people. In fact, white people enjoy being offended. It gives them a chance to become martyrs for a cause, whether realized or not. Look no further than Supertopo for an example.

http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.com/2008/05/28/101-being-offended/

My favorite passage is the last one:

"If you ever need to make a white person feel indebted to you, wait for them to mention a book, film, or television show that features a character who is the same race as you, then say “the representation of was offensive and if you can’t see that, well, you need to do some soul searching.” After they return from their hastily booked trip to land of your ancestors, they will be desperate to make it up to you. At this point, it is acceptable to ask them to help you paint your house."
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 6, 2011 - 06:38pm PT
Concur with Gary above. Had you all been there, you would "get" it. I probably spent like five minutes talking to him and his friend, and they were super cool. We talked about beer and Canada and all sorts of stuff. We all had a good laugh over it, and there absolutely no hurt feelings.

Why is it OK to write or say the absolute worst things about Christians, and nobody says a word?

Bwah-ha-ha-ha!! As a white person [but with a pretty good suntan now] I am offended by the white people being offended above. Or something like that.

Anyway, twenty or thirty posts after my intentionally provocative and inflammatory post to keep this thread near the top of the forum, there is not a single report on Kait and Ammon's progress. Anyone know what's happening?

Silver, I might have been tempted, but I had only a single bag.
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Jul 6, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
Huh?

aaaaaaanyway's...

we need a progress report on the current attempt on this route.

Anyone got some pics?

I love climbing.
#1SuperMama

Social climber
Oakdale, Ca
Jul 6, 2011 - 07:19pm PT
Ammon has completed 3-1/2 pitches. They are hanging out today on their sunshaded portaledge at the top of pitch 2. Kait needs a break from Ammon's fairly constant, "Watch me," as he skateboards down when the hooks fly. Fairly grueling experience and probably why not many attempts have been made of WoS.

And as the #1SuperMama - be careful with your totally untrue negative comments. I raised my children with the old adage: "Shut up until you put up!" So, unless you have tried this route - you know what to do!

P.S. This is for you Pete, since you are their #1 WoS fan!
Ammon and Kait have a very unique climbing style -
Time ceases to exist.
They simply enjoy being together on the Captain.
: )
And it was nice meeting you and getting to put a face with a name on this forum.
Have a safe trip back home.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 6, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
Thanks for the update and for keeping us apprised, Annie! Without Tom on the bridge you might be our only source of current info. Nice meeting you on the bridge, too.

After twelve days on A.O. Wall, I'm quite familiar with the "time ceases to exist" bit. Fortunately, my time did knott involve leaving hunks of my flesh and blood stuck to the Captain!
klk

Trad climber
cali
Jul 6, 2011 - 08:29pm PT
tx for the update.

really hard slab climbing is bad enough free.

the aid version, skating out of aiders, sounds really brutal. the sort of thing you might come up with if you did yr first aid climbing at rubidoux.

oh wait . . .
#1SuperMama

Social climber
Oakdale, Ca
Jul 6, 2011 - 09:28pm PT
Kinda' epic and fun to watch this one.
If I hear any more news - I'll post it.
Thanks for all the positive energy!
Woot woot! That's what they need to feel up there.

And if anyone is around - can you take some pics and post for me? Thanks!

And hey, what was the day count of the 1st ascent?
I know they didn't take enough water for that many days -
Pete, maybe you better get back here and lower some water down?!?!

Ciao!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 6, 2011 - 11:54pm PT
Wouldn't Ammon prefer beer?

Wouldn't it be a pleasant change if something nice came down from above this time?
tooth

Trad climber
The Best Place On Earth
Jul 7, 2011 - 12:43am PT
Seems to me that even though this ascent will not use any of the same hook placements the FA did (they have been washed off by rain?!) this second ascent will be very comparable - slab hooking dimes that will be re-shaped by rain in the next couple years.





Really hoping Ammon will run out of pitches before he runs out of skin!



Cheers guys!!

Mimi

climber
Jul 7, 2011 - 02:23am PT
You guys are unbelievable. You continue to ignore the tactics the FA used to get up the precious slab. And the argument about not giving Jim grief about his practices is ridiculous. His climbing accomplishments speak for him unlike the wos FA team who have none. Like I said, he's not on the ST spraying like the wos FA have tried to do. They've obviously duped several of you supposed good climbers who are in total denial about what went on up there and you give me crap for toeing the line. You have no spine and are gutless.

Mark Hudon, would you use a drill to enhance your hook placements and then lie? There's never been an argument about the level of difficulty, only about the tactics used.

We know Pass the Penis does such things. The Chief, you duct tape hook placements. Do you also use the drill? You other guys don't even warrant a comment as far as I'm concerned. You can give me grief all you want. Call me a hater, the facts stand. And Kevin F., I'm really disappointed in you. What would Walt say? I already know.

Oh, and by the way, the sum total of these goob's big wall experience when they left the ground was that Dick had done the Column and Skid had none. And you kooks, like Healy, think it's a wondrous accomplishment that such a team could walk up and do such a proud route. Give me a break!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jul 7, 2011 - 02:25am PT
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=hater
Mimi

climber
Jul 7, 2011 - 02:29am PT
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=liar
nick d

Trad climber
nm
Jul 7, 2011 - 02:36am PT
Actually Mimi, they didn't lie. They freely admit enhancing practically every hook placement. Errr, "micro-enhancing".
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 7, 2011 - 02:37am PT
We'll know soon enough whatever Ammon and Kait report. They're taking enough time that they should see whatever there may be to see, and no one so far has suggested that they have any axes to grind. Even after 29 years, there shouldn't be a lot of change.

PTPP gets slagged for his allegedly unstylish vertical camping trips, climbing what are often difficult routes in a studied manner, and smelling the roses en route. Not exactly superlight alpinism, but he doesn't get in anyone's way, and doesn't pretend to be doing anything else. Isn't the current attempt on WoS also a vertical camping trip, and shouldn't it be assessed in the same manner?

Anyway, WoS does seem sui generis, and needs to be considered as such - there's nothing like it elsewhere on El Cap, or indeed in the Valley.
Mimi

climber
Jul 7, 2011 - 02:57am PT
So by your account nickd, yeah a 12-point font size enhancement. So that would make it about 290 holes. Wow, thanks.

Anders, remember the enhancements are invisible. And to quote Skid, "There are lots of enhancements, but you won't see them." And you praising PTPP's ascents is a bit off. Anyone who takes an average of ten days to complete an El Cap route is getting in someone's way.

And I know many of you will grab onto this and think it's okay. But it's not. We have asked the FA plain questions many times such as "of the 145 narrow Leeper Logan hooks that were used on the route, how many of them involved percussive force with a hammer and drill or chisel?"

Skid says lots and Bwana can't seem to remember despite the otherwise meticulous bookeeping.

Imagine the quandry that Ammon and Kait are in right now. They're trying to hook up this slab. One of the original FA team says go ahead and drill to suit, we did. The other one says oh no, you must use what's there because that's what we did.
dipper

climber
Jul 7, 2011 - 03:02am PT
Mimi sounds like a jilted lover...

So who was it, Dick or Skid?
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