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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Do you know the origin of theses steel carabiners? I have seen similar locking sleeves on Pierre Allain aluminium carabiners, but have no idea if there is a connection. These locking sleeves may have been used by other makers.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Without a stamp of some sort we are all pretty much guessing. The gate detail does resemble Allain locking biners but the milling pattern on the sleeve doesn't match the ones I have.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Welcome to Corsica Alan Grainger!!!
Here, again, I would like to express all my gratitude to Marlow for this outstanding contribution.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jun 20, 2017 - 10:51am PT
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Nutstory
On the last page you posted this photo showing the development of the WC Friends logo
I am no collector of cams, but has ended up accepting Friends (the first cams) into my collection. Recently I found a 1978/1 Friend which is a bit different from the one you posted. I have not been able to take a good photo, but have drawn the difference on your photo below. The difference is where FRIEND is placed on the shaft. My exemplar is Friend nr. 3, not nr. 1.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jun 21, 2017 - 08:37am PT
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Yes Marlow, it seems that "FRIEND" moved from place to place on early Wild Country camming devices...
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jun 23, 2017 - 06:18am PT
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Presently on ebay........332274572524
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jun 23, 2017 - 07:08am PT
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Impressive... really fascinating!
So, this one just would be... the second prototype.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 23, 2017 - 08:02am PT
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Interesting and likely very expensive piece. I wonder who the seller is beyond Sue from Ventura?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jun 25, 2017 - 04:04pm PT
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Presently on ebay......322567559650
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jun 25, 2017 - 04:12pm PT
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Marlow - The closest carabiner I can find to yours is shown in the Ellis Brigham catalog from the early 1970s. Maybe Stubai or Hiatt. Other close carabiners are Bonaitti.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 25, 2017 - 08:34pm PT
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Marlow- Those carabiners look like they may have been fabricated to clip into pipe or cable and weren't intended for climbing use so they may be custom made rather than something off the shelf.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jun 25, 2017 - 10:34pm PT
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Steve.
I think you are right about that. They are bygger than usual climbing carabiners too.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jun 25, 2017 - 11:13pm PT
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Tree climbers, high voltage workers, steel building assemblers, and others who climb commercially tend to use big carabiners that look like Marlow's. Their gear is heavy, their harnesses look like WW II parachute rigs, and sometimes they clip in between their shoulder blades.
The stainless construction might have been from a navy ship, offshore oil rig, or other maritime industry. Or, they might date to the heyday of stainless steel, c. 1970, when chromium was so plentiful, it was even applied to automobile bumpers.
Here is an industrial carabiner that weighs two pounds, and costs more than $600.
INDUSTRIAL CLIMBING GEAR WEBSITE
If you need a Jumar that works on steel cable, that website sells one.
EDIT:
From a photo on the previous page:
The magnesium cam lobes of the Jardine #4 prototype are corroded, which is typical for magnesium. Corrosion was one of the reasons I stopped making magnesium Valley Giants. The corrosion would puff up, and cause the lobes to get sticky and not want to move.
VW and Porsche specified that after cleaning and rebuilding their magnesium engine cases, they were to be coated in cosmoline, or some other durable coating, to protect them from corrosion. VW and Porsche both discontinued using magnesium for their air-cooled engine cases, and switched over to aluminum.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jun 26, 2017 - 07:08am PT
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Marlow, can you post a photo of the carabiners next to a common oval carabiner to show the size difference.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jun 28, 2017 - 08:21am PT
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Not a mystery, but an old pro...
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Marlow - Maybe your mystery carabiner is the one shown in the 1955 Sporthaus Schuster catalog item # 3912b - 195g. Maybe the artist drew the drawing incorrect where the gate actually opened into the larger side of the carabiner.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Hi Marty.
Below you see the mystery carabiner and an ordinary sized DMM carabiner.
Sorry for the late answer.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Marlow - Yes it is a mystery carabiner! Looks like some kind of construction tool! Thanks for posting it and I will keep it in mind as some day the answer to this mystery will surface. Fun!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jul 14, 2017 - 10:07pm PT
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Presently on ebay. The large carabiner in this photo is from AustriAlpin
The AustriAlpin catalog lists that carabiner as Industrial Fire Brigade Karabiner. Comparing it to the one shown in the ebay photo, it looks like it was available with or without the directional bar.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jul 15, 2017 - 07:33am PT
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They're also used for attaching fall protection to structures like scaffold (or fire truck booms) before scaff-hooks were common. If the gate opening is just over 2 inches, I'd suspect that sort of industrial application.
K
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