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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Harvey was a big part of the Gunks scene back in the late 70's and early 80's. Here are few shots that he took of me back in the days, brings back many great memories of some of the best climbing days I have ever had with some of the greatest people I have ever met.
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DanaB
climber
CT
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Left to right: Maury Jaffe, Renny Glover (I think), Bob D, Chuck Liff, Mike Freeman, Annie O' Neill, Ivan Rezucha, Laura Chaiten, and Don Hamilton. I don't recognize the person who is second from the right end.
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Oldfattradguy2
Trad climber
Here and there
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2nd to the right looks a bit like Rich Ross
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Dana, second on the right is Russ Raffa, second on the left is yo Doug.
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MH2
climber
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Nice for me to see a pic of Maury Jaffe. He had threadbare gear the times I climbed with him.
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Oldfattradguy2
Trad climber
Here and there
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Perhaps this thread needs a sister thread titled "shwangunks, cornerstone of eastern degeneracy climbing"
Uberfall wine tasting (an excellent cheap buzz for underage kids)
High exposure keg parties ( I learned how to jug and haul)
All night "spacewalks" (Nuff said...)
Commander Qualude....gunks button 714 holder (name withheld to protect the commander)
And
More vulgarian tales....
My 15 yo mind was certainly expended when I got there in '77. Got a Masters Degree out of Bonticue in the '80s!
My one question is: Am I a sandbagger if I still use Nosedive as the standard for 5.9?
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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My one question is: Am I a sandbagger if I still use Nosedive as the standard for 5.9?
Hell no! It was only 5.8 by Carderock standards...
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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My one question is: Am I a sandbagger if I still use Nosedive as the standard for 5.9?
I'd say such a claim is rather beyond mere sandbagging.
It may be that Retribution was 5.9 A1 when Art Gran and Pete Himot did it in 1958, but as far as I know it has always been 5.10 (nowadays 5.10b) once McCarthy freed it in 1961. In Art Gran's 1964 Guide, it is given as 5.10 and recognized as a "breakthrough to higher standards," which makes it unlikely that was ever thought to be 5.9 and pretty much guarantees it was never regarded as a "standard for 5.9."
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Uh Rich, not like you to mix up Retribution and Nosedive!!!! To respond to the original question---yes, that does make you a 'sandbagger"!!!! My recollection is that only one of the many generations of Gunks guidebooks rated Nosedive as a 5.9, and that the current ones have it firmly where it belongs in the 5.10 "camp". Retribution may have a technically harder sequence but Nosedive is an overall harder climb, especially for those of us who are genetically disadvantaged in the height department.Even with Nosedive as a 10, most Gunks 9s seem pretty stout in comparison to those in many other climbing areas.
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hagerty
Social climber
A Sandy Area South of a Salty Lake
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OMG. Bob D - thank you so much for posting those photos by Harvey, especially the group shot! I climbed with everyone in that photo at one point or another and certainly saw most everyone most weekends. Brings back lots of memories. Have to dig my old photos out of the basement this year.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Well, I didn't mix up Retribution and Nosedive in the sense of getting any information wrong, I just somehow decided the subject was Retribution. Senility works in mysterious ways.
Nosedive has indeed had a some grading oscillations. It was originally (and correctly via almost any comparison I know) 5.10 in Gran's guide. Then it went down to 5.9 in Blue Dick and Red Dick---who knows why---after which a chorus of protests brought it back to 5.10 in Black Dick and now 5.10b Grey Dick, which seems about right, i.e. it is neither 5.9 nor 5.10a and so was and would now be a major sandbag at 5.9.
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hagerty
Social climber
A Sandy Area South of a Salty Lake
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In some ways, Nosedive is the Reed's Pinnacle Direct of the Gunks. No single move is harder than maybe 9+, but there are ~5 of them back-to-back along with a few others here and there.
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lucander
Trad climber
Shawangunks, New York
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In this arctic front that's gripping the region, the Shawangunks are the cornerstone of eastern cross country skiing.
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Oldfattradguy2
Trad climber
Here and there
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RGold: I think I had one of the "5.9" guidebooks, must be why I've always been stuck at 5.8.....
Never take an art class because Dave F. says he will give you an "A" because he needs the enrollment.
Now back to the traditional nature:
Mike Robin, well before the folks at rifle invented kneebars....
Thesis, RIP and the pizza was never the same again.
The "Frog"
Jim Munson practicing traditional climbing.
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bamboo
Trad climber
pike co
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Oldfatradguy
that's robin --one b -no s!
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Oldfattradguy2
Trad climber
Here and there
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Thanks for the correction, happen to know where he wound up in the 30 years since the photo was taken?
We had to throw him out of the house one night, he tried to convince us to all to drive into New Paltz and join the army and show them how tough we were. Luckily for him, we let him back in to the party. Although, I assume the army has strict BAC limits for folks signing up....
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bamboo
Trad climber
pike co
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O2
I hear he's lurking on old gunks threads-
and I'm positive he's been thrown out of classier parties than yours!!
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A5scott
Trad climber
Chicago
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Was just there last week, my second home. I'm not as able bodied anymore so my friends climbed frogs head and tr'd something next to it, and did Horseman in the dark. It's almost as fun watching what I used to do
sorry for the first pic
Scott
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2014 - 11:34am PT
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Bump for Wiessner Routes.
Anyone ever find the "Frog's Head" that this route was named after? Dick Williams asked the same question long ago...
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