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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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La LA women
do you live in Hawaii or Pasadena?
more questions
How did you end up with the Russ crew
was one of them a BF,
tell all, before E
Thanks
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2016 - 05:19pm PT
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Swept Away on a Winter's Day
Swept Away, the classic Evans/Vogel route, was one of the more striking face routes like Figures on a Landscape that I always wanted to do in the years while I climbed at Joshua Tree.
On a cold winter morning around '78 or '79 my older brother and I hiked to the base of Swept Away and uncoiled a worn red rope below a shadowed wall. It was one of those rare occasions where we ever partnered and after my sketchy first pitch lead, I gladly took a position belaying from the butt bag and scanned the route ahead. What route? Aside from a few obvious flakes, in the early light I didn't know how it would go.
Tobin passed me at the belay and after padding my ego for my lead, he cast off to the first bolt. He made a few quick scrunching and unwinding moves and progressed upwards rapidly. At the blank looking crux I don't remember that he ever paused. Soon it was off belay and I dreaded the exit from my cocoon at the hanging belay for what seemed an ominous duty, at best I hoped to be able to clean the gear. My poor skills at that grade were evident as I blew off well before the hardest moves and hung there. Tobin yelled to me from above.
"What's happening, did you pass the crux yet?" To my dismay I could only holler for him to lower me. After a short back and forth exchange he persuaded me to return to the belay and rest before trying it again. Second time around I fell twice but got back on to finally finish under max tension. Winded and soaked in sweat on the forty five degree day I joined him up top, but I was thrashed. Tobin was so positive, telling me, "you'll get it next time and, that was probably a solid eleven."
A couple years after that Tobin departed us, and I went back there a wiser, stronger, and more experienced leader with a solid partner (Roy?) On that sunny spring day I gave the route my best effort. The crux was at my fingertips, but the sequence eluded me and I took a good ten or fifteen foot fall. I jumped back on it straight away and after some mental mechanics and perseverance, it yielded. Of course my partner cruised it, but my mind was in the clouds, for I could only imagine I had my big bro up there congratulating me at belay.
-Tim Sorenson
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Craig,
Look at the post on April 10 at 9:13 pm. I don't know how to screen shot on the new computer. I grew up in SG. Had a BF in HS for 3 years. After that, went to PCC and met the buggers. Played lots of hacky sack and started going out to JT with The Fishes friend Derek Olin (Moonie posted a pic of he, Bushman,and E). Erik showed up second semester 1980 and it was love at first sight. We lived together for 5 years until 1985. I had to finish college and E had to keep living the lifestyle. Went to Cal Poly SLO for many degrees and credentials. Moved to Hawaii in 1990 to be a school counselor. Had twin boys 1993. Currently in the midst of a divorce and hope to be back in LA at the end of the year. I think you're obsessed with the LA woman photo...do you like my butt? V
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Me, Mike and Mari did the second ascent of Swept Away the next weekend
I led the second pitch and found the pro to completely suck
so after spending too much time fiddling with mank, I finally gave up and just fired past to the jugs above
There are some nice moves above the crux
As we walked back to our cars, we saw Lynne Hill take this Yuugge whipper on EBGBs (30ish ft), and then went right back up and fired it
I will remember that day because of this extra visual
she just floated down like a fairy and the fall was like no biggy for her.
I'm like, if I fell like that, it would not ever be what I just saw, it would be epic.
Thanks Vic
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Spencer Lennard on what looks to be some five star boulder problem
after Lycra was banned
San Diego Bent looking on
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Early ascent of New Generation, '75
Place your guesses on who they might be
I was 16 at the time, just taking photos and doing 5.8 max
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Friend
climber
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I led the crux on Swept Away in 1999, I was so proud. Belayed by none other than Dave Evans himself. What a class act and all around awesome guy.
Tim, very touching post about Tobin. And Roy, jesus man, the post about your dad just about made me cry half a dozen times. Phenomenal. As others have said, keep it up!!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jan thanks for the memory.
After we had borrowed the use of Dave's van on that very windy day Dave said to us"you guys have a monkey on your back."
That became the working title for the route in progress"Monkey on my back."
Later under Randy's volition, without consulting the other members of the first party, the route name became"figures on a landscape."
I'm posting on my iPhone from the shepherds hot springs near mammoth!
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Dee Eee....Shepards tub..? You running with the sheep out there..?
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Jesus H Christ
This thread not only blows mind...it's what make SuperTopp so SUPER!
Damn. All the crap that gets posted....I don't even bother to look any more. Except when The Mighty Thor points me to something priceless like THIS!
Just amazing. Thanks Roy. Thanks everyone. I feel blessed to have know most of you...some for part of my life, some to this day. Climbing just RULZ so hard! Gotta love it. Btw, dowloaded most of the photos.
Roy, at your Gordo party you told me that you and your friends always liked me and Vicki back in the day. Well...that meant a lot to me, and of course we felt the same way back...still do!
Lovalovalove this thread...carry on y'all!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Definitely Hensel belaying in that B&W of New Gen. Maybe Bobby Kessinger getting ready to lead 2nd pitch.
Posting from Android phone on the toilet. ;)
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Other possible names
Barimia, S. Curtis, Jim Wilson?
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Indeed, looks like Bearamia (sp?) sitting on top of wall. And, could be Jim Wilson (Rubidoux variety) with Hennie.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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I haven't done New Gen since the mid-80's, but I remember the hard climbing starting straight away from, No-Go ledge and going straight up, but in the photo it makes it look like you traverse way off to the right before heading up. That's a great shot. Loved those mass assaults on Suicide routes. My memories are still pretty crisp!
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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I think you're obsessed with the LA woman photo...do you like my butt? V
How about an updated photo?
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Friend,
My sentiments also to Tim and Roy's shared writings. Continue on gentlemen and never stop pouring it out.
Hummerchine,
Glad you're also loving this awesome thread filled with wondrous memories of BITD.
Are there 2 Vikki's?
Are you speaking of me?
The V that was with E?
Please tell me who you be...
Overwatch: NOT
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Roy-Loved the portrait of your father! Heartfelt and poignant, what a pleasure to read.
"You look like 40 miles of bad road" is outstanding! What a character.
Reminds me of the time an old climbing friend came from the airport to my work in downtown Denver, so that I could take him to my house. The receptionist pondered his weathered visage and his big pack, rang me over the intercom, and whispered,
"There is a homeless man here to see you."
This thread's an all-timer, thanks for all the photos and contributions.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Overwatch: NOT
Worth a shot
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Roy/
loved that piece about your father.
It read like jazz.
Imagine that.
This whole thread is awesome, thanks.
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