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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Feb 28, 2013 - 09:16am PT
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The rest of the routes have holds that have been drilled, chopped, hammered or chiseled.
Maybe this is the natural progression, as Peter Hahn called the "gymnification" of the outdoors. People are learning in gyms and just use these areas as outdoor gyms. Should just be viewed as vandalism at some point. Since we're talking about public land out west, this probably means calling the Tools.
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Dropline
Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
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Feb 28, 2013 - 09:18am PT
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Dingus, if you do come to the gunks, as long as you don't chip and bolt your way around we'll get along just fine. In turn, when we gunkies come to WY, we promise not to chop bolts everywhere we go.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Feb 28, 2013 - 09:30am PT
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Dropline,
I accept the terms of your offer. I attempt to climb the finished product as it is, the same way as I would do watching a magician. I don't ask magicians how they do their tricks.
Don Paul,
the vandalism going on here is of your narrow view. Your views have been destroyed by the avante garde.
Riggins Yes, indeed sort of like a gym, but way more fun. Nothing existed there before.
Oh, and good luck calling the Tools; the BLM would laugh in your face and I doubt whether you have the body tension strength to Tram in and Chop.
I politely suggest you do not bring your climbing ethics to WY. We manage fine without your bygone 60's views of climbing.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Feb 28, 2013 - 09:54am PT
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Dingus, if you do come to the gunks, as long as you don't chip and bolt your way around we'll get along just fine. In turn, when we gunkies come to WY, we promise not to chop bolts everywhere we go.
Just watch out for our friend Ken Nicholls.
...just opening another can of worms.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Feb 28, 2013 - 10:14am PT
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Gunkie,
about Ken Nichols acting out here. The turf of caves is so difficult just to bolt and monkey draw because of the steepness that I suspect his experience of chopping slabs and vertical gained from out Connecticut way would be of little use. Single handed Tooling of caves would be very difficult night work.
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donald perry
Trad climber
kearny, NJ
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Feb 28, 2013 - 10:28am PT
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RGold “Mostly, Donald's points are moot, even when they are marginally coherent. (For an example of the more pervasive incoherence, he singles Bragg and Barber out for hypocrisy even though neither of them has said a word about the current situation.)”
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From Don: “My point is that the NY Shawangunks climbing community started out with Henry Barber and John Bragg [2. See Yankee Rock and Ice] who developed higher standards than anywhere else on the planet, and then dropped the ball when Brag left…”
RGold “And his claims are moot even if you buy his tarring … two of Gunks climbers as hypocritical for not writing magazine articles condemning the chipping on Twilight Zone.”
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From Don: “My point is that the NY Shawangunks climbing community started out with Henry Barber and John Bragg [2. See Yankee Rock and Ice] who developed higher standards than anywhere else on the planet, and then dropped the ball when Brag left…”
RGold “And his claims are moot even if you buy his tarring of a generation … as hypocritical for not writing magazine articles condemning the chipping on Twilight Zone. (Donald participates in the hypocrisy he condemns by not having written such articles himself.)”
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From Don: My being part of the generation does not nullify the argument. Furthermore, this is something that would only work if it was done by the collegium.
RGold “At this point, The French Connection activities are nearly thirty year-old local news. Most of today's climbers know nothing about it, and wouldn't know anything about it even if some article had appeared in a magazine that would now probably be defunct.”
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From Don. OK, so then it’s 30 years of chipping between now and then. Great job.
RGold “At this point, The French Connection activities are nearly thirty year-old local news.”
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From Don: There was a time when the Gunks set the stage for higher ethics [See Yankee Rock and Ice.], those days are long gone, you have allowed them to slip through your fingers.
RGold: “Donald wants his perceived hypocrisy of the elders”
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From Don: You have yet to disprove the hypocrisy. But keep trying, maybe you can figure something out eventually.
RGold “Donald wants his perceived hypocrisy of the elders to be visited on subsequent generations who know nothing about all of this”
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From Don: First, you just proved my point. If there were any real ethics around after Bragg left subsequent generations WOULD know everything about this. You guys went so far as to make a religion out of it! When did you forget what it was like back then, when you ostracized particular climbers who you did not agree with? Second, it would not be hypocritical if they did know about it.
RGold “… and he wants to use this perception to disqualify the genuineness of everyone's views on the current chipping situation.”
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From Don: No, what I implied is that “the genuineness of everyone's views” should be tempered with the past, to understand how we got here. It has never been my intention to “disqualify the genuineness of everyone's views on the current chipping situation”. Please don’t put words in my mouth.
RGOLD “Not only is this is nonsense, it is an unfortunate distraction from the real issues. “
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From Don: The real issue is the decline of ethics in the climbing community where they cease to function to bring about real preservation. Your point is there has been no decline in ethic preservation. How are you going to prove that?
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Dropline
Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
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Feb 28, 2013 - 10:41am PT
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RGold “Mostly, Donald's points are moot, even when they are marginally coherent. (For an example of the more pervasive incoherence, he singles Bragg and Barber out for hypocrisy even though neither of them has said a word about the current situation.)”
Moot, out of context.
From Don: “My point is that the NY Shawangunks climbing community started out with Henry Barber and John Bragg [2. See Yankee Rock and Ice] who developed higher standards than anywhere else on the planet, and then dropped the ball when Brag left…”
RGold “And his claims are moot even if you buy his tarring … two of Gunks climbers as hypocritical for not writing magazine articles condemning the chipping on Twilight Zone.”
Moot
From Don: “My point is that the NY Shawangunks climbing community started out with Henry Barber and John Bragg [2. See Yankee Rock and Ice] who developed higher standards than anywhere else on the planet, and then dropped the ball when Brag left…”
RGold “And his claims are moot even if you buy his tarring of a generation … as hypocritical for not writing magazine articles condemning the chipping on Twilight Zone. (Donald participates in the hypocrisy he condemns by not having written such articles himself.)”
Moot
From Don: My being part of the generation does not nullify the argument. Furthermore, this is something that would only work if it was done by the collegium.
RGold “At this point, The French Connection activities are nearly thirty year-old local news. Most of today's climbers know nothing about it, and wouldn't know anything about it even if some article had appeared in a magazine that would now probably be defunct.”
Moot
From Don. OK, so then it’s 30 years of chipping between now and then. Great job.
RGold “At this point, The French Connection activities are nearly thirty year-old local news.”
From Don: There was a time when the Gunks set the stage for higher ethics [See Yankee Rock and Ice.], those days are long gone, you have allowed them to slip through your fingers.
RGold: “Donald wants his perceived hypocrisy of the elders”
Moot
From Don: You have yet to disprove the hypocrisy. But keep trying, maybe you can figure something out eventually.
RGold “Donald wants his perceived hypocrisy of the elders to be visited on subsequent generations who know nothing about all of this”
Moot
From Don: First, you just proved my point. If there were any real ethics around after Bragg left subsequent generations WOULD know everything about this. You guys went so far as to make a religion out of it! When did you forget what it was like back then, when you ostracized particular climbers who you did not agree with? Second, it would not be hypocritical if they did know about it.
RGold “… and he wants to use this perception to disqualify the genuineness of everyone's views on the current chipping situation.”
Moot
From Don: No, what I implied is that “the genuineness of everyone's views” should be tempered with the past, to understand how we got here. It has never been my intention to “disqualify the genuineness of everyone's views on the current chipping situation”. Please don’t put words in my mouth.
RGOLD “Not only is this is nonsense, it is an unfortunate distraction from the real issues. “
Moot
From Don: The real issue is the decline of ethics in the climbing community where they cease to function to bring about real preservation. Your point is there has been no decline in ethics. How are you going to prove that?
I've copied this and quoted it because Donald has a habit of going back and editing and deleting posts, so that responses to his posts seem like non-sequiturs.
This last post of his does a nice job of illustrating what many of us already know. Donald's mind is fragmented and at least some of the fragments have left for parts unknown.
Soon he will resort to one of his other tactics wherein he will accuse debate opponents of not having faith (God forbid!!!), or of being the anti-christ, or of having sold their souls to the devil.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Feb 28, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
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WTF and Dingus have shown me the light. I am no longer against chipping and it is wrong for me to speak out against chipping. In fact, it really is the only way for our sport to progress.
This opens up a whole new world for me around Tahoe. Thanks!
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Chip C. Chipperson
Sport climber
Chippewall, ME
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Feb 28, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
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WTF and Dingus have shown me the light. I am no longer against chipping and it is wrong for me to speak out against chipping. In fact, it really is the only way for our sport to progress.
This opens up a whole new world for me around Tahoe. Thanks!
Chippy senses sarcasm.
ESP abilities (extra sarcasm perception)
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Feb 28, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
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Nah Chip, I'm serious. What's an flake converted to a edge here or there? A few key crystals out of my project and I'm sure to send. Its all good... that's what climbing is about.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 28, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
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But STFU we are tired of your irrelevancy.
Who exactly is "we"? You got a mouse in your pocket?
Perhaps you should heed your own advice.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Feb 28, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
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Sorry Milky, I was referring to McGee.
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Chip C. Chipperson
Sport climber
Chippewall, ME
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Feb 28, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
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Chippy thinks that might be a progressivist agenda to communitize and levelize.
Maybe Chippy isn't chipper about that.
I knew IG was trouble...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Feb 28, 2013 - 02:26pm PT
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I've copied this and quoted it because Donald has a habit of going back and editing and deleting posts, so that responses to his posts seem like non-sequiturs.
This last post of his does a nice job of illustrating what many of us already know. Donald's mind is fragmented and at least some of the fragments have left for parts unknown.
It also demonstrates that all manner of fact and opinion is "moot" to Donald, except for the rather odd perspectives that he alone happens to hold.
Curt
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Feb 28, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
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Not just Donald, one of the Dinguses says there's a whole community like this up in Idaho. Not my problem what they do up there but sad nonetheless.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Feb 28, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
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They are everywhere!!!!!!! like Zombies!!!!!!!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Feb 28, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
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And Patrick. Sorry to forget to mention you.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Feb 28, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
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FA climbing is typically about challenging yourself to ascend what nature provided in the best style you are capable of. And your best style should be roughly inline with the local standards. That's why you typically don't chip: to preserve the challenge nature provided. Unless something is impossible to climb (a tough call to make given the progressive nature of difficult climbing, but it does exist) then it should be left for someone who CAN climb it.
Rock on private land is subject to it's owner's wishes. It's not a public resource.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
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FA climbing is typically....
Ivan Greene is not so typical.
how Typical of him.
LOVE that word.
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