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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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O-MAN!
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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The west side has delivered the goods for the past three days!
On the first day of this swell it was real big closing out when I arrived. As the tide filled in a bit conditions got better. I surfed a full three and a half session with mostly friends in the water.
I got some monumental rides that day. A couple of the right hander’s are in competition for the single best wave rides of the season.
On the second day I scored another great session of what turned out to be brilliant over head surf.
The wind was messing the texture up and it really looked like junk from the road but the rides we were getting were excellent! The crappy appearance was all it took to keep the crowds away.
It seems like the second day of a swell rarely goes as well as the first. I typically paddle myself out the first day and so I am paddling with considerably less power. More than that my timing was off that day and I blew a number of steep take offs. All In all, It was a good day of surfing with good people and plenty of waves.
The forecast was favorable for the swell to hold for yet another good day and intended to get a relatively early start and have a long perhaps double dip session.
My plans to go surf early morning were interrupted by a desperate phone call from the wind surf school that I am affiliated with. They had over booked a lesson and the instructor that was scheduled that day was wigging out and he was about to blow a gasket.
I told Karen (WSM’s business manager) to call R.C. (the instructor) and tell him, ”The cavalry was on the way!”
Things were a bit hectic at the beach but I calmed R.C. down enough to get through the two and a half hour seven person (beginner 101) lesson with satisfactory results.( All the while R.C. was still really upset.)
I got away from that bad energy situation as fast as I could and drove straight to the west side.
When I arrived at Woody’s there were only seven people out and it was consistent, glassy, shoulder to head high waves.
As I was about to paddle out two of my buddies were coming in and they were really stoked about their session.
Now there were only five other people and myself. I chose to surf with three Hawaiians two guys and a very attractive young woman named Sierra. We all had a great time trading waves and talking story.
It wasn’t long before the two dudes went in and then it was Sierra, me and two stand up guys. The stand up guys were killing it on the right hand inside reform. They were not in our lineup zone at all. It wasn’t long before the SUPer’s split.
That left Sierra and me with all those nice waves. It was delightful swapping stories and surfing with her. Often a set would come when one of us was in the middle of a story and we would both take off on the same peak one going right and one going left. When we paddled back out we would pick up the conversation where we left off.
This amazing soul surfing session went on until nearly sunset.
On my way home I it was firing at a fast little break that rarely goes off. The light was good so I stopped and shot a couple of photos.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Olaf mate
Dam you know how to live!
That wasn't Sierra Partridge was it?
Your pal
joe
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Thanks Joe!
The Classic Shaun Tomson cutback. Most Likely a Dan Merkel shot.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jul 10, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jul 10, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
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o-man that sign's not right, it forgets -- most important talk story time.
I worked with a group of mechanics from Hawaii in the seventies. I don't remember getting anything done in the shop, but I did ship a lot of parts to Hawaii. It seemed like each part took three phone calls, 1 to ask if we had something they needed 2 talk story even though I told them I would call asap 3 me calling them with part in hand or not & talk story they called & told me earlier.
Man they would get pissed about being told they couldn't sleep on the beach on the mainland. Couple times a week those stories were told over & over all day. Off the phone from one story in to the shop to rehear this mornings story. What they ate for snacks would be three squares & a snack for me. Man those guys were a lot of fun.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jul 11, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
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Good story FRUMY! It does take longer around here to get things done because folks really like to talk a lot. I sometimes come across as a bit rude when I'm trying to get things done in a timely fashion and people want to shoot the breeze.
I did another of those fun down wind coast runs yesterday and may just do another one today. I rode some delicious clean open ocean wind swells that just put a big smile on my face.
Here's a photo of my buddy Giampaolo on his last session in Indo this season.
BTW: check out today's action at the Billabong Pro At J-Bay
http://www.billabongpro.com/jbay12/videos-view-gb/day-1-highlights-part-1http://[/url]
This is some sick surfing click on videos for today recap action and follow tomorrows action live in the morning.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jul 12, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 12, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
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Jesus Christ, Nutjob.
I have seen endless amount of Teahupo’o video and this is by far the best. And so important that it was slowed down so far. Shot with ultra high speed camera equipment. Huge improvement. What a day that was; so glassy. The nitty-gritty problem of actually staying on the wave is really clear, over and over again. It just gets TOO hollow often and there is this terrible strategy of riding the power but keeping just a tiny bit ahead of it but not too far ahead, out in the flats and dying. Amazing and thanks!
http://www.chrisbryanfilms.com
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jul 13, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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nutjob, that Phantom video is awesome! My neighbor Ian Walsh feels that it truly expresses the Teahupoo experience.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 13, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
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We get to go to some bitchin places, don't we?
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jul 14, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
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That's a striking photograph drljefe!
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jul 17, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 17, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
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Check out this sick shot of Wardo!
photo Beard
Air shots are a dime a dozen these days but I love this one.
Local boy, local spot, local photog.
Wardo rips.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jul 18, 2012 - 02:35pm PT
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Check out this epic footage of Kauli Seadi wave sailing at Alibaba/CV
http://vimeo.com/45886704
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 18, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
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Here's a question-
Dawn patrol or evening sesh?
While I was on the dawnie program off and on, I was always partial to the evening session.
Lots of greedy surfers for both timeslots.
I just love the backlit jade green, easy on the eyes when riding, rinse away the day aspect of the evening.
Same goes for bouldering. Can't really even imagine bouldering in the morning.
Of course, some of my most memorable sessions have been in the morning...
Often times better conditions, but that damn glare...
More barrels in the morning, able to laugh your way through a shˇtty day at work, and just a plain killer way to start the day. ..
Fvck. I dunno...
Come to think of it, when i was on the "State Surf Team", the midday sesh was always good and uncrowded.
You know what?
It's all good.
I feel lucky just to be a surfer and a climber.
Whenevers clever.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jul 18, 2012 - 10:33pm PT
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Olaf, dam I almost got sick to my stomach reading that. And cold cold water to boot.
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Leavittator
climber
san diego, ca.
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Jul 18, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
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Social Climber, thanks for posting that list from The Surfers' Journal. Now that I have been kitesurfing more, it is redefining what I enjoy doing in the water. I hope you enjoy this video I recently made of kitesurfing in Mexico. I mounted a video camera on my kite, for a really nice perspective.
https://vimeo.com/45733059
Randy Leavitt
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