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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Aug 11, 2017 - 08:46am PT
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Great stuff Marty. You are so talented..in many, many different ways. Power on!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2017 - 08:48am PT
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Roots - Many thanks!!!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2017 - 08:49am PT
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 Outdoor Retailer summer market 2017 review….
(125 photos)
For many many years I have been visiting the Outdoor Retailer show which gave me a opportunity to explore the Salt Lake City area in Utah. I had a great time in Salt Lake City! But now due to controversies between how Utah now views their outdoor public lands value, and the entire outdoor product industry, the show is now being moved to Denver Colorado. This Summer 2017 Outdoor Retailers was the last show in Utah. Many companies did not attend and boycotted the show.
Boycott:
withdraw from commercial or social relations with (a country, organization, or person) as a punishment or protest.
• refuse to buy or handle (goods) as a punishment or protest.
• refuse to cooperate with or participate in (a policy or event).
Many of the companies that did attend and showed their products at the summer Outdoor Retailers show had signage in their display booths referencing their complaint toward Utahs decisions toward public use within their public lands. In my view the North Face was the biggest voice at the show telling all of the outdoor industry that the outdoor world is about the person and not the product. Big applause to the North Face!
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Even though many companies boycotted the show, the show was business as usual. Only one Pavilion tent was missing and the main building was filled tight with company booths. This may be due to many new businesses filling the missing businesses booth spaces. If I did not know of the present controversy and if the North Face did not make their huge stance and march toward public lands, I would not have known anything was going on. In fact this was the best show I have attended in the last 10 years of the Outdoor Retailer shows overall. The majority of the businesses were overly generous with their product making sure everybody went home with suitcases of schwag. I was amazed how many companies had poster signings in their booths with the biggest athlete names presently in the media there to greet people. Over a dozen companies asked for my opinion of what I thought of the Outdoor Retailer show being moved to Denver. My response was centered on if there is enough hotels close to the show site to house all of the attendees. How will all of these people get to and from the show and where will everybody park their vehicles? The pre show demos may change since the commute to the ski lodges may be greater distance. Will the climbing PsicoBloc competition wall be moved to Denver? The overall energy at the show was very positive, let me restate that. “The overall energy at the show was very very very positive!”
Martys #1 show choices……….
Best food samples…
Best beer glass…..
Best catalog and show booth…..
This was a 50/50 toss up between Black Diamond and Adidas/Five Ten. The energy was constant at both booths for all four days. I gave the award to Black Diamond since for many years Black Diamond was business as usual, but for this show Black Diamond went above and beyond and welcomed all of the public to be part of their company. The Spring 2018 BD Work Book is a true work of art and a major collectors item. Adidas and Five Ten are now under the same ownership where Adidas was the main element in their booth and Five Ten products were placed out of view far in the back. Big PROPS to Black Diamond!
Best item I obtained at the show…..
I have been bugging Hans Florine for years for a pair of his climbing shoes to be in the Karabin Climbing Museum. Hans surprised me at the show bringing with him the greatest gift I got from the show overall. DMM and Steve Petro donated many fantastic pieces to the museum where I am truly grateful, but Hans was the first person I ran into at the show and after he gave me his gift, I could not stop grinning from ear to ear. Hans donated the pair of his personal ascender Yates foot loops that he used on the Yosemite Nose route speed ascent with Yuji Hirayama, and the Nose speed ascent with Alex Honnold. I am still amazed that I have this fantastic history in my museum. Hans you totally rock! Second place item goes to Steve Petro surprising me on my birthday with his personal Friend-copy camming device he purchased in Kathmandu in 1991. And the third best item from the show goes to Robert Mason with New England/Maxim ropes for his Rope Guide salesman rope samples kit. Fantastic museum items for sure!!!!!
2017 OR show highlights…..
In our hotel room was Jaime Gangi, Nicholas ‘Neo’ Oxentenko, Tiffany Hensley, Chloe Mandell and Marty. Everybody enjoyed my rhythmic snoring.
At the show a company named King Snaps from Taiwan was displaying their climbing goods. Unfortunately they were not selling any of their products. They have a few lines of camming devices and nuts which all are unmarked. One nut however had the word “Vertical” on it. Some of the products looked like copies of gear being sold on the market by other companies, and other items I have not seen before. The greater amount of the gear they were displaying had no company markings on it.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 11, 2017 - 10:24am PT
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while my honeymoon coincided with the release of the Queen Creek Guide ('96-7?) I've not been west In a coons age. . .
thanks for sharing all you score! & taking some of us along as you pappa , ratty thats auto-correct for ya! - PAPARAZZO, PAPARAZZI,
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2017 - 06:52am PT
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Mike - Thanks for the props on my climbing guides!
Gnome - That was a tough photo to take. No matter what angle I shot the photo I was always in the cups reflection. Also trying to get the best lighting for it always left a reflection of the light source. Another reason that Adidas/Five Ten beer cup got first place.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Aug 14, 2017 - 12:31am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2017 - 06:18am PT
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Nutstory - Not sure if you have one of those Thailand cam devices. I have not seen that style before until Steve surprised me with it. I tried to get a few samples of the King Snaps Taiwan cams, nuts, bolts and other items but they were strict on not letting anything be removed from their show booth. I feel that they are looking for somebody to put their name on their produced gear over selling their own gear. It was strange that none of the items had manufacturers marks on it. My friend Neo and I were creative on indiscreetly obtaining photos of the items in their booth. I also got a catalog from them. Also DMM has 2 new large sizes of Dragon cams coming out at the end of this year. Unfortunately I did not get any photos of them. Only 4 days at the show and 2 million things to see and experience. I purchased a new phone just for the show to take photos but I didn't come home with many photos. Great show! One of these years I hope for you to come to the show with me.
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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Aug 14, 2017 - 05:11pm PT
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Nice tour of the trade show Marty. thanks for taking the time to post all that.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2017 - 09:00pm PT
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Hubbard - Thanks for the show props!
I found a few photos of the new DMM Dragon cams size 7 and 8 available late 2017.
Photos from the DMM website......
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apoet
climber
AZ
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Aug 15, 2017 - 12:25pm PT
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Hey Marty! Do you have any DB gear in your collection? I have a #3 DB slider nut and would love to more about it. I am assuming the DB is someone's initials.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2017 - 10:04pm PT
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apoet - Sliders with DB on them.........Hmmmmm..........
- DBest Mountaineering - Quickie (c1986 - USA) - available in 6 sizes.
The first generation carabiner loop end is dipped in plastic, and the second generation have plastic tubing for the carabiner loop end. The nut sizes also differ between the generations. The Quickies were created by Don Best.
In the photo below the top row is prototypes which one was donated by Pete Takeda. The far top right is a rare channel Quickie that were never produced donated by John Middendorf. The below set is the first generation (lower left) and second generation (lower right).
apoet - Thanks for your question!
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Aug 16, 2017 - 05:31pm PT
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WOW this is BETTER than being there.. seriously. thanks for posting up all the photos. what about those DMM cable dogbones eh?
EDIT , I think I had better put the Karabin Museum on the visit list! Awesome!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2017 - 12:22pm PT
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After many years of searching and losing auctions on eBay, I finally obtained a 1960s Piton Carrier! Yes!!
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Mad69Dog
Ice climber
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Aug 19, 2017 - 02:06pm PT
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Incredible shots, Marty. Just amazing!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2017 - 07:56am PT
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From nutstory - The following information is taken from two Au Vieux Campeur catalogs, a famous French mail order climbing gear retailer. On the left, catalog 1972, one can see the first generation of the anneau (ring in French); on the right, catalog 1976, the second generation of the anneau. A good friend of mine used the first generation in 1968.
This open ring made in Europe (France?) was used to carry a great deal of pitons on long aid climbs.
From nutstory - I contacted my friend Hermann Huber about the Piton-Carrier. Hermann managed the famous German company Salewa for many years. I am delighted to share Hermann’s reply with you:
The German name HAKENSCHANI was a somewhat strange "artificial" name, composed from Haken = piton + Schani = no meaning in proper German, but a dialect expression of Bavarian-Austrian origin describing a man who may be some sort of server/servil guy/helper (nothing exactly precise). Also… Schani may nearly symbolize german "Scharnier" = pivoting device (sometimes I liked a bit of "word playing").
From nutstory - Here is some more interesting information that I found about the Piton Carrier (Hakenschani). The first generation was invented by H. Strathmann who filed out a Patent on July 14th, 1961 for this piece of climbing gear. Patent number DE1174228B
The climbing gear history buffs also might be interested to know that Bill Forrest filed out a Patent for his PinBin on July 22nd, 1968. Patent number US3563430A
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2017 - 08:09am PT
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The eBay buyer states that these pitons are definitely from 1880-1890 era which I can believe. But I keep looking at them in wonder as of why the piton end is so heavily hammered and the blade shows little scaring. My thoughts are that the pitons were created for the logging industry so the blades were being pounded over and over into green timber and not hard stone. I have a few modern logging pitons that look the same as these ancient relics, which were used to tie logs together into rafts where workers could stand more firmly on as they worked with stray logs being floated down rivers. Also used to assist in tying loads on carts or trucks or other uses with timber. I am sure some of these logging pitons made it into the mountains to serve as main anchor points on the big mountain routes, but I believe they were originally created for the logging industry.
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Aug 28, 2017 - 11:46am PT
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Those relics are really awesome! You alluded to the connection between the logging industry and the first big wall anchors. is there anyone out there who could confirm the connection? It would be a really great historical bridge.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Aug 28, 2017 - 12:07pm PT
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Marty has a great collection.
The connection is credible. You find the same use of tools originally made for other purposes when it comes to early ice axes. Below you see a photo from Gilles Modica's book "Alpinisme - la saga des inventions" showing two similar pitons.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 28, 2017 - 01:59pm PT
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Those relics are really awesome! You alluded to the connection between the logging industry and the first big wall anchors. is there anyone out there who could confirm the connection? It would be a really great historical bridge.
I've seen many of these used in log booms, where they are called "dogs". Your can just pound them into the logs, and they stay put.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2017 - 03:10pm PT
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nutstory - Between you and I we show two different sizes of this gold colored lobes cam device from Thailand. Do you know the name of the company that created these cam devices?
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