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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Mar 20, 2011 - 01:21am PT
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Friday afternoon I had a classic woodson outing. I was headed up to the east side to look around above the missing link, but the sun was too low to go that high on the hill, so I set out to find the start of a certain trail lower down. Three hours later I had cut about 100 yards of trail through some brush that had a serious attitude.
As it often does in the brush, the struggle turned personal, and it became the man vs bush grudge match. The more the bushes cut and punctured me, the more ruthless became my eradication. A particularly stout manzanita stub about 18" tall and 3" in diameter resisted all efforts to rip it out. I was putting weight on it to snap some roots when my foot slipped. I had no handholds, so when i flew off i landed on my back in a tangle of brush with the stump at my feet, and now it was ON.
I wrapped one leg around the stump and pulled it downward in a classic wrestling tap-out move, then got on my knees and did the sumo chuck on it in the opposite direction. I pushed, pulled, twisted and lifted in different directions, gradually weakening it. I wasnt gonna lose this one, but i needed some advantage. I found a 40 lb rock and hoisted it high over my head then brought down with all my might, severing most of the roots. Then I took that punk to the mat again, ripped the entire root ball from the ground, flinging it into the bushes with a victory whoop.
It was now getting dark, so i started back out, tossing my cuttings off the trail as I went. Clearing the cuttings from a trail in deep brush is a difficult task. Some of the cuttings are small tree sized and their branches catch on everything, so you have to rip it out of the bushes, get it high enough to clear the surrounding brush, then toss it. Branches that dont clear get flung back at you, puncturing and lacerating. The battle was fierce and lasted the whole way out, but I got most of the cuttings off the trail.
I emerged from the brush soaked in sweat, covered with dirt and twigs and bleeding from a dozen places, but filled with the satisfaction of having vanquished many worthy adversaries. As I caught my breath I watched the moon rise, illuminating the surroundings in its cold, stark light. I made it to the road by moonlight and walked down feeling completely thrashed, and having found exactly what I came for.
Man, I love that place.
Self portrait before the festivities began
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Mar 20, 2011 - 02:01am PT
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More fun on the hill today, bouldering all around the playground. The highlight of my day was belaying Johansolo on his new 5 star classic, The Vision (5.12/5.12+). The name originally referred to something else, but is now even more appropriate because more than anything, it is John's vision that made this route a reality.
It is a brilliant sequence of powerful moves that require extreme precision, on holds that are really thin, and rock that is really steep.
Well done John.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Mar 20, 2011 - 02:32am PT
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Great day up on the mountian with semi-cool temps and no rain. Thanks to Ron and Rick for the tour and stories. Sorry, but no pics from me. Really fun with old friends and new.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Mar 20, 2011 - 09:28pm PT
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Had a great day on the hill Sat.
It was great to finally meet Johnny (Johannsolo)
A very talented climber and just all around good people.
Ron and I had a blast hanging out with him and exchanging stories.
We also ran into the "young guns": Doug, Mark, Phil, Eliot and Nicole.
Not to mention Woodson journeyman Gary McKay.
I took a mess of pics with a new point and shoot but I've not quite figured
it out yet. All the photos were taken in "auto mode' and ended up coming out blurry. But, here's a few shots to at least remember the day.
Johnny walking up "Death Vomit"
Nicole cruising the "Uncertainty Principle'
Johnny on his new test piece "The Vision"
Johnny crankin' a face climb on the boulder behind "Uncertanty P"
Johnny and Nicole bouldering the crux moves on the aid seam to the left.
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Mar 20, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
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Cool stuff on this thread as always. Conditions were pretty good yesterday though a little humid with the storm coming in. Hopefully Woodson season can stick around a while longer as it's been great to get up there with new and old friends. Always inspiring to see new and old climbs as well.
Great pics Rick, and again, happy birthday! Next time I'll hack it up with you guys.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Mar 21, 2011 - 03:44am PT
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Its nice to see such a motivated and talented group of local climbers on the hill. All that energy and enthusiasm is contagious. Now Im all psyched to get back into climbing shape and terrorize all the 5.9s on the hill (my strength to weight ratio at present is analogous to a potato hanging from two rubber bands).
As for Woodson ever being out of season, its not. At least half if not more of the climbs on the hill are in the shade in the afternoon, and theres usually a nice breeze coming off the ocean.
Dont start up any earlier than 1:00pm and stay off of west facing climbs and you can climb at woodson all summer.
Honest Injun
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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Mar 21, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
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Me and some friends went up Fri night played in the playground till midnight.
got back up sat afternoon messed around on painted bolder then up to baby robins. was a great day on the mountain.
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Mar 21, 2011 - 05:38pm PT
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You got that right Ron. Woodson season never does end, especially when you live so close to the hill. Sometimes even a weekday evening session is possible.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Mar 21, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
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weekday evenings for sure.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Mar 23, 2011 - 01:13am PT
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The sequence to Christ on Crutches
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Mar 23, 2011 - 01:30am PT
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that right hand is heinous on Christ On Crutches...so grainy!!!!!!!!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Mar 23, 2011 - 05:12am PT
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Great talking to you Ron! I wish I could have been there with my ol' bro's!!! Geez...I used to be a fixture there... :)
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Mar 24, 2011 - 03:14am PT
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It would be great to see you Mike. Yah you were the MAN at woodson for a long time. Michael Paul is woven into the history of Mt Woodson.
Looking forward to seeing you at Joshua Tree.
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whitey1
Trad climber
california
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Mar 24, 2011 - 04:16am PT
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Was up at Woodson march 12th with my 9 year old son and awesome wife. Did Sickle crack for the first time,wife made it look easy, Fun climb. I got attacked by a few bee's just below the anchor's and got stung twice. Bad.. anyway didn't see any hive? maybe one in the area? Soon after I was on control tower and scared myself when my shoulder seemed to lock up (maybe cause of the bee stings to my arm)right below the top. I know I'm a wuss (but I thought I was going to break my legs). Got the family on top of top of Tower 1 at the end of the day with my first ever stick clip (I found out why its called STICK clipping). All and all another Great day at Woodson (for us beginner's) with the Wife and son,proud of them both.
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Mar 24, 2011 - 06:57pm PT
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Cool stuff whitey1, sorry bout the stings though.
Watusi, I have to say that you still are a fixture at Woodson, even if you haven't been there in a while. As Ron said, you are woven into the history of Mt. Woodson and everyone I climb with knows about you and your climbing career there (and elsewhere).
In fact, Doug and I were just talking about you while trying to figure out "Pruneface" up near the summit. I'm not sure if that was one of your FA's but I associate you with it. I seem to recall a photo of you on it. Maybe it was posted on another Woodson thread. Anyway as Ron said, it'd be great to see you on the hill again someday soon.
TKingsbury, those photos are stellar!!!!
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Mar 24, 2011 - 07:39pm PT
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I agree Eliot. M.P. owned Woodson BITD.
Or I should say co-owned for sure.
He definatly owned the thin cracks.
He did them ropeless sometimes in sneakers.
Yeah...M.P. did the first ascent of "Prune Face".
The crux is near the middle and the top is 5.10.
I got careless once and came off the upper moves.
BVB was spotting me and I totally took him out as we both ended up 20 ft.
down the hill. A great spot though..he saved my ass!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
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Gotta agree - those pictures are killer - good link, TKingsbury! Those pictures capture what might be my favorite area up there, with one of the best concentration of good problems (personal taste). You can easily see Laker Girls, Bad Boys, Skid Row, Cool Jerk, the tops of all the IMAX problems, Cast of 1000 Stones, and more. Very, very cool. I think I just got re-motivated.
The only thing that could make them any better is if The Big Grunt wasn't in the center of both of them. Some things are just better left unseen.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 25, 2011 - 12:09am PT
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Some of you already know, but I am working on a new book for Woodson. I currently have over 500 routes for the main road written up. There are a couple hundred more off the main road I need to document, as well as several hundred more on the summit area, the Junctions, and the Fry Koegel Trail. As for the Everest area, i will let you know in the future.
As of now I am not making any promises, but the intention is to have fully comprehensive book and I expect that it will be somewhere over 1200 routes. (many ridiculous 5.9 obscurities but, so it goes).
Other intentions include actually useful maps, gps, photos, and having as much new route information as possible as well as historical accuracy on known routes (as in proper naming and FA info). So if you are willing and have info to share please do! (Gary!! and many others of course-please enlighten me!)
I can already thank, Ron, Rick, and Darrel for being very friendly and providing me with some historical guides as well as general info.
So, iff you have put up anything new, or know of new stuff, please inform me. I know Johnny (sp? sorry man haven't met you) has put up a bunch and Darrel's got his new Welcome to Rubidoux-and I am certain there are others.
Naysayers: If you hate guidebooks, and think that I am a terrible egotistical self aggrandizing person for spreading info about our quiet little Woodson, I accept member to member messages so please send all hate mail there.
I will say, in pre defense, that I currently have zero first ascents at Woodson, so I really do not have anything to brag about.
However, for those of you who do have FA's, message me!! and your name will be next to your route!
Thank you in advance for your help in this project, I will be the first to admit that I do not know what I am getting myself into, so all help is greatly appreciated!
See you on the hill,
Greg
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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Mar 25, 2011 - 12:45am PT
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I'm looking forward to a new and usable guild to Woodson. the currant one sucks.
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