Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2009 - 03:02am PT
|
I first climbed with John Bachar at Reed's Pinnacle in Yosemite in 1983. Mark Jacobs and I were doing a route called "Old 5.10" at the same time JB was soloing "Lunatic Fringe" just to our right. After John came down he asked us if we would give him a TR on Old 5.10 before we pulled our rope down, because he had never done the route before.
Naturally, he floated the thing like it was "Old 5.6" and we then spent a few minutes discussing these new gray shoes he was wearing with a red dot on the side. After he informed us that these new Spanish-made "Fire" climbing shoes made everything else seem like climbing in roller skates, I ordered two pair of them. Those were the good old days.
RIP, John.
Curt
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2009 - 03:13am PT
|
if somone could tape or link that aBC deal that ould be good i will not be near a TV.
|
|
hot pool junkie
Sport climber
flagstaff AZ
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2009 - 03:15am PT
|
Here is a Native American prayer which was printed in the Mammoth Times many years ago:
I give you this thought to keep - I am with you still - I do not sleep.
I am a thousand winds that blow, I am the diamond glints on snow.
I am the sunlight on ripened grain, I am the gentle autumn rain.
When you awaken in the morning's hush, I am the swift uplifting rush.
Of quiet birds in circles flight, I am the soft stars that shine at night.
Do not think of me as gone, I am with you still -- in each new dawn.
Blessings on you John - you were authentic to the core.
|
|
Risk
Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2009 - 03:53am PT
|
I’ve been very deeply troubled about John Bachar’s passing. I barely knew him. I saw him frequently when I lived in the park, and hung out around him at times. People here may know I am almost not a climber at all; I just have always loved the mountains and mountaineering culture. Then why has John’s passing hung as the big picture in my thoughts every day since it happened, even amidst several seriously huge life-changing events going on for me right now? A reason is starting to emerge.
John was pure at what he did. He defined this to himself and lived up to his own super-high standards. It turns out that for years, this has re-circulated in me over and over without me really paying much attention to it. Over time, I developed my personal beliefs why he did what he did, and what his thoughts were when he climbed. I sense a few others may feel similarly. But like the Leonardo de Vinci of climbing, John’s Mona Lisa was much more than just a really good painting. So much more.
Throughout this and other threads and places, people from all over have stepped forward with the very kindest of words, the highest of praise, the deepest sorrow, and the witnesses to his devotion and love he had for his son. And, friends and people throughout the west who knew him, saw him, bumped into him, climbed with him, heard stories about him, heard him play his music, partied with him, and fell in love with him. These people all knew him as a real person. And then it seems people here and elsewhere are really hurting about this, and it doesn’t seem to be going away or simmering down as it might otherwise. That is the feeling I have and that’s the feeling I get.
It is easy to say someone was a legend. What I am seeing for the first time is his legend truly emerging in the real world. To me, this is more than ordinary grieving going on, this is the creation John’s real-life biography to be handed down and talked about for the ages. His fame goes so much further than promising to be enduring, his very persona, grace and humor will echo everywhere he passed forever. Everyone who is or who becomes a part of our culture will know who he was. It brings me happiness to know that he’ll be staying around for a very, very long time still.
|
|
sherry
climber
santa clarita, ca
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2009 - 10:46am PT
|
One more Angel, to spread his wings,
To fly to the mountain top, As you reach for that brace ring,
One more Angel that can hear the mountain sing,
One more Angel to shine a light,
To keep you from the darkness of freight,
One more Angel that will reach for you when you fall,
One more Angel that loves you all!!!!!!!!!
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2009 - 11:20am PT
|
ABC nightly news tonight. 530 in the west I think
Don't have a tv myself (that's hook to anything)
Peace
Karl
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2009 - 12:38pm PT
|
Karl, do you have any friends with TIVO ?
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2009 - 12:59pm PT
|
We get ABC here, via an affiliate (KOMO) in Seattle. The schedule shows that they have "KOMO News" from 5:00 - 7:00 PM today, with a segment from 5:30 - 6:00 called "World News". It sounds like the Seattle and Washington news is from 5:00 - 5:30 and 6:00 - 7:00, with the ABC national program from 5:30 - 6:00.
Possibly the ABC website provides a schedule? I hope to find a TV to see the program, but don't have the ability to tape it etc. If I remember from the 2007 FaceLift, they post these things to their websites after the program runs.
|
|
Grant Meisenholder
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
|
I have my computer hooked up to the glowbox. I'll see if I can grab the segment
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
|
GM, that would be awesome for us without tv.
Really Appreciate ! Hope it works.
lynne
|
|
climberpoet
Trad climber
California Foothills
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
|
The Stone Master
for John Bachar
some say he floated over stone
to me he was solid
each foot & finger placement
a lock as exact as precise
as a concert musician
never a wrong note
each move its own
masterpiece of concentration
nothing except what was needed
the economy of the body
moving over that sheer face
up a crack
playing each crystal
each note blown true
“I guess I think too much sometimes”
he wrote just one day before
there must have been a kind of quiet
that came to him when he was there
face to face with the rock
the only sound in his head
that long aching note that the wind blows
that quiet sound of rubber sticking to rock
letting him move with ease
and she sang her song for him
that goddess of the stone
that fascination
why he couldn’t let go
more than anything
the rock
the one place
where everything stilled
quieted
where that single focus
let the world drop away
under his feet
& from his mind’s chatter
& she called him to her
that last day
that sun day
he was going
to say goodbye
but she said it first
and after all those years
she let gravity
take him
~Laura Pendell
10 July 2009
|
|
martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2009 - 03:59pm PT
|
anyone who could tape the abc clip I would really appreciate it!
|
|
BlueGuy84
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2009 - 04:20pm PT
|
I hope to see you on the stone in the future John. You are an inspiration to me and to many. God Bless!
|
|
R.B.
Big Wall climber
Enumclaw, WA
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
|
HOW MANY OF THOSE CAN YOU DO??? How much time do you got?
One of my most memorable (funniest) climbing memories I have was when I crossed paths with John Bachar (Johnny Rock) in Joshua Tree National Park back in the mid-1980’s. Myself and two other climbing buddies were parked at the public parking lot of Real Hidden Valley and as one of my buddies was smoking weed out of a 3 foot purple bong, (nicknamed the purple slurple), all of the sudden, John walks by on his way to one of his “Half Dome” days (free soloing 2000 feet in one day) … with his chalk bag and shoes in hand. John curiously asked my buddy “How many of those (bongs) can you do??” and my friend replied “How much time do you got?” … and John, the master and purist he was said “Oh, I’d better not … but thanks anyway!” He then hiked off into the Real Hidden Valley. We saw him free-soloing “Leave it to Beaver, 5.11d - on the east face of Sports Challenge Rock” as we headed off to do our 5.10 for the day.
John was always the purist and I always aspired to be as smooth, strong, and pure as he. His mastery was probably best exemplified as he would boulder “Midnight Lightning“ at Yosemites Camp Four (Sunnyside Campground). I could only touch the famous “lighting” hold and Then I would bomb door off … but John … well you know! I will always hold fond memories of John. Godspeed, and we will miss you Johnny Rock!
|
|
tyruss' uncle
climber
state of grief
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2009 - 08:28pm PT
|
thanks to all who have posted, called and thought of john. he was my only brother but i realize he had brothers and sisters all over the world. i always looked up to him. i just want to talk to him and ask him what to do when you lose your brother.i love you john
|
|
Grant Meisenholder
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
|
I have the recording and am converting it to an iPod compatible file - about 12 MB if anyone wants it.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2009 - 10:09pm PT
|
I was wondering if anyone was or could save the threads about John, and the attachments, and the links, in some reasonably permanent format? Can they be saved as screen shots or something, and eventually converted into a CD and given to John's family? There are many stories and photos here, that should be kept together in one place. I suppose they'll be in the bowels of the SuperTopo server, as long as it's running, but that seems a bit unreliable.
|
|
dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2009 - 12:00am PT
|
John as a soloist, all of us and the world knows. His bravery and skill was out standing. But with a rope on the things he did back in the day …. Blew all are minds!!!! For me Caliente at Suicide is the one route I will always remember him by forever.
Peace be with you Bro!
Bruce.
|
|
shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2009 - 02:03am PT
|
hey, its been great reading all the post here. you know, a dozen years ago, i knew john as a totally bitter man. he was bummed that rap bolting had invaded tuolumne, and felt that with all the hard new sport lines, his prominence in climbing history had diminished. but after reading all the post here, and duane raleigh's excellent article on john in rock and ice last year, combined with my phone calls to john after his accident that were so positive, i have had two realizations been reinforced:
1) that john was still a hero to climbers of all generations, and that his legacy will never be forgotten on the face of climbing, and, probably more importantly that
2) John was Happy, and as somebody said, was in transition from a professional climber, to an adult man trying to make another future for himself, with his son as a focal point. i'm so glad that he knew so much joy in his last years on earth.
also, i have talked to people that saw john's slideshow over the past couple of years. there's really not much money in this market...i gave up trying to do slideshows a few years ago because of that reason.but he was out there, telling it like it was BITD, and, well,...he was still imparting ethics on a grass roots level. i think that is so beautiful. you people were so lucky to hear him speak. please spread the gospel of bachar to your peers.
finally, (at least for now) i've been talking with my old friends from the eighties that were around this vibrant time in tuolumne. these are the same guys that risked their own lives trying to repeat his horrorshows. i can tell you that we are all collectively pretty bummed out. john was the one that led us into a climbing style that emphasized mental control in the face of dangerous situations. we are, and will continue to be, his disciples. because of john, i always did my fa's in tuolumne from the ground up, and i thank him for that, they were among the richest adventures of my life. ciao, brother
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2009 - 03:38am PT
|
tyruss' uncle....I emailed you and hope you got it. He knows you love him. He will talk and you will hear. I miss the very heck out of him too. I was sitting here thinking, "oh, sheee, no more planning and pushing the brain cells to make it happen and to just enjoy digging and creating and thinking new and unusual farout ideas...."
Sweet Jesus, your Bro was fun to scheme and plan with. Peace, Dude, it will come. Lynne
Edit: and CC don't get in your car or ride a bike or surf or scuba.....
I missed death twice this year by a very tiny, tiny hair from irresponsible humanoides.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!