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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Quarter size hail might divot the poor climb.
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Gene
climber
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Infinite drama bump!
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Hail will totally chip new hook placements, invalidating any alleged ascent.
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fosburg
climber
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Crazy! Why is this route controversial? Rob Slater told me it was harder than the Sea of Dreams. Kevin Thaw says it is "modern A3" (for all you old dads, that means A5, get on up there Mimi Dude if you think that's light). Freaking UNREPEATED for how long? It's definitely a hard aid route. Maybe not a brilliant natural line but certainly bad-ass by the commonly accepted standards.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Kevin-your voice of reason is totally inappropriate to this thread. Please delete and repost some hysterical, unreasonable hearsay...
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Sheesh you Californicators are looking like a bunch-o-bung holes. Exactly how much time and electrons can you squander whining about one freekin' route? And why?
There is a whole world outside of the big valley. Go climb something.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Why, that forecast sounds exactly like the same forecast I've been climbing through on El Cap for the last month and a half. What's the big deal?
I never bailed ....
... except once.
Here's the animated radar loop for the area:
http://www.intellicast.com/national/radar/current.aspx?location=USCA0987&animate=true
Put your rain fly on, Ammon and Kait!
I asked the VIA bus driver for a quick stop at the west end of the Meadow for a look-see on the way out this morning, but he wouldn't. I thought I saw their ledge at the top of 2, but it was just a quick glance through the bus window.
And here's your Dr. Piton Big Wall Travel Tip of the Day:
The dirtbag cognoscenti are already aware that the best public transport route to Yosemite is via the Amtrak to Merced and thence the VIA bus. The train is, of course, BYOB. When returning home, there is enough time at the Merced Amtrak station to make a Bee-double-E-double-R-U-N, a Beer Run. But where? It just so happens that only a block and a half away [about 150m to Hosers like Anders] from the Amtrak at the corner of K and 23rd is a little convenience store that sells the coldest beer in Merced. It's true, it says so on the sign.
Here I was faced with a dilemma - the forty-pounder of Olde E., or the choice swill consumed at the Centre of the Universe [the El Cap Bridge] which is King Cobra. I couldn't decide, so I chose both.
Along with a two-dollar bag of BBQ pork rinds, the total came to $7.48 US, about five bucks Canadian at the current exchange rate. "Holy frig," I said to the Mexican guy behind the counter, "this is great. A single bottle of this stuff at home would cost more than seven bucks."
"Yeah," he agreed. "But I hear you guys have to go to the beer store to get it. Even so, I'd love to live in Canada," he says. "I saw a TV show where they don't even have to lock the doors."
"That's true," I said. "And there's two reasons why. The first is that in Canada, crime is against the law. And second, there aren't any Mexicans in Canada."
So I grabbed my two bottles of beer and pork rinds, cleverly disguised in a black plastic bag, and clanked my way back to the Amtrak station. There I stood in line to buy my train ticket next to a rather gruff looking officer of the law, who had a half dozen rough-but-very-happy-looking girls in tow, each with a California Department of Corrections card in their hand, waiting to get their train tickets. Seems this was their first day of freedom in quite some time.
After tossing my pigs into the train, the cop stood on the platform and watched the girls disappear. "So you let them all go, eh?" I asked him.
"Yeah," he said, "but I'll see them back in a couple weeks."
Wow, I thought, did you learn to become an @sshole, or were you just born that way?
I went inside the train, talked to a couple of the girls, congratulated them on their big day, and gave them one of my 40's. Sometimes you gotta "pay it forward". Their smiles of delight said it all.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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yo
climber
Mudcat Spire
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Pete's on a train full of paroled hookers.
That's your report for today, July 6.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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"That's true," I said. "And there's two reasons why. The first is that in Canada, crime is against the law. And second, there aren't any Mexicans in Canada."
Did you learn to become an @sshole, or were you just born that way?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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"That's true," I said. "And there's two reasons why. The first is that in Canada, crime is against the law. And second, there aren't any Mexicans in Canada."
Did you learn to become an @sshole, or were you just born that way?
Have to agree with that one, Pete.
Hood River is 1/3 Hispanic, and I'll bet has as many fine upstanding citizens as the non-hispanic population, it sure does look like it when I read the list of Honor Roll students in the newspaper.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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C'mon guys, it was a total joke, and he knew I was kidding. There was absolutely no offence taken.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Fattrad,
These girls were all in their 30's, 40's and 50's. The two I was talking to both bought bloody marys at the bar in the train showing ID.
No WAY could any of them been hookers. They'd have been unemployed.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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From the outside y'all look sillier than those damn mixed climbers scratching around in chossy caves and then arguing about who did it with or without spurs.
Hey,
Style matters.
... well it does to me, anyway.
On topic.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Yeah, getting down on WoS and not on Bridwell for his routes is certainly strange. Still though, any first ascent on El Cap was done in better style than I could have done it so I really have no leeway to complain.
Shredding on the WoS team and not Bridwell is misguided and wrong.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Double standard, or more.
Sure wish someone would try a repeat of Turning Point, in as close to the original style as possible. No fudging.
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S.Leeper
Sport climber
Pflugerville, Texas
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C'mon guys, it was a total joke, and he knew I was kidding. There was absolutely no offence taken.
So it should be cool with the millions of Mexicans in the states then?
I agree, not funny ahole joke.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Anyone can make a mistake, I'll dismiss the a$$hole part but still, it was an insensitive comment.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jeebus, you guys ever work anywhere ethnically mixed? Cracks like that are almost compliments.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jeebus, you guys ever work anywhere ethnically mixed? Cracks like that are almost compliments.
White people like to be offended for other people. In fact, white people enjoy being offended. It gives them a chance to become martyrs for a cause, whether realized or not. Look no further than Supertopo for an example.
http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.com/2008/05/28/101-being-offended/
My favorite passage is the last one:
"If you ever need to make a white person feel indebted to you, wait for them to mention a book, film, or television show that features a character who is the same race as you, then say “the representation of was offensive and if you can’t see that, well, you need to do some soul searching.” After they return from their hastily booked trip to land of your ancestors, they will be desperate to make it up to you. At this point, it is acceptable to ask them to help you paint your house."
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