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sully
Trad climber
CA
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Nov 20, 2008 - 09:53pm PT
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Licky, I've heard of only one Camp 4 book of stories about the 50's and 60's. Can you tell me what the other ones are? I thought about focusing on the no-so-famous Camp 4 climbers. Also, have the Yos rangers and climbing instructors been able to be forthcoming with you or are they worried about employers suing them?
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sidmo
Sport climber
general delivery
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Jan 16, 2009 - 11:25am PT
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sully, read back on these posts - not all climbers lived in camp 4 - not even a majority, just ones with no means to find housing elsewhere - for so many to lump every rockjock into the same pigeonhole is mystifying to me - to really understand the scene then and appreciate the valley as it really was one should remember that many of us actually worked and took daily showers - and we didn't all eat off people's abandoned cafeteria trays - perhaps we weren't as celebrated as the camper-climbers in sunnyside, but we climbed each and every day just like they did, and experiened the spring/summer of 1977 similarly as well
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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Jan 16, 2009 - 11:37am PT
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From mountain magazine.
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Licky
Mountain climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2009 - 05:07pm PT
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Hey Richross...do you know the date of that issue?
Its interesting to read about all of the errors that are posted in that article. Make one wonder about what other tid bits of misinformation is published in that magazine as well as others.
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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Jan 23, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
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Mountain 56 July August 1977.
I met and climbed with Jack Dorn in the Gunks in 1976. He was east to visit his mom.
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sidmo
Sport climber
general delivery
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Jan 27, 2009 - 02:35pm PT
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Caylor/Hangster - i'll supress the urge to flame back at you, but my point is: if anyone wants this story to represent ONLY a clibers/Camp 4 perspective then i question why? i see relevance in the fact that some others who may not frequent climbing websites 30 years after the fact may have been there and done that - all while residing outside sunnyside. some others i know who were involved never (unbelievable, i know) rockclimbed at all. i just think their stories should be sought out and heard . . . and included in a comprehensive account. but you seem to resent my offering from the other side of the valley, does it somehow de-legitimize or de-glorify the tales from sunnyside? i don't believe it does. did the climbing community need an exclusive on an event to find glory? i don't believe so, but some PBs were as hostile to climbers they didn't camp with as the local surfers were at the favorite breaks in socal. i left there, and the competitive surfing community when i discovered climbing. i moved to the valley in 73 and embraced the noncompetitive mountain sports for, among other things, their lack of competitve macho posturing. it seemed silly when i would encounter arrogance in the climbing clique, when 99% were totally mellow and kind individuals. as for calling me a "little angry man", i understand the relevance of anger, but can't imagine why you assume i'm angry or care what you think for that matter. for the record, i'm not angry - i have no reason to be, not even at you. (i'm also not that little, if it matters). my guess is you, like most bullies/cyberbullies, somehow get self-gratification by insulting your peers. grow the f*#k up, okay? this forum was way more interesting before you got all huffy.
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Licky
Mountain climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2009 - 11:46pm PT
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Just had a very interesting conversation with one of the two guys that were the climbers on the rescue where Jack Dorn fell to his death. More to follow
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Feb 16, 2009 - 09:07pm PT
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he said , "PB"!!!111
hoo-ya! That one goes back a bit. Favored term of the Tools, Curry Gestapo, and the guys and gals that had it "maid" in Yosemite. Thanks for the flashback.
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dinerogrande
Mountain climber
Mexico
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Feb 19, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
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With all the different books based on the "Dope Lake" crash, and the films such as "Cliffhanger" making vague references to it, it's certainly interesting to sort through these threads. I'm an independent producer, now in Mexico, working with a writer that has over 30 hours of taped interviews with several of the smugglers, living & dead, telling their stories in regards to this incident, and what transpired leading up to it. After painstaking research to weed out unsubstantiated "facts" and just plain folklore, we are close to laying out the story in a finished film script. Our big decision is what way to go with it. A 2.5 hr movie with most of the story, or a cable mini series (think Sopranos, Deadwood, etc) to put it all out there? This plane crash ended what appears to be one of the most well organized pot smuggling operations on the west coast, if not the U.S. at the time. The events that lead up to the unfortunate ending, are riveting, suspenseful, and at times even comical. Though our research has found no connection whatsoever to Mr. Dorn's demise, we do find unsettling facts that tend to lean towards the possible sabotage of the infamous plane, and we will present those thoughts in a non-litigious fashion in our film. We are not concerned, in regards to the film, with much of the aftermath, ie; recovery, salvage, and the "gold rush", but if anyone wishes to share valid and factual (first hand) information on any details of the smuggling operation or it's members relationships, we would like to hear from you. If it could enhance or otherwise validate what we have accomplished, mention in credits and/or possible financial compensation will be considered. Thanks, C.A.
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Gene
climber
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Feb 19, 2009 - 07:09pm PT
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Mr. Big Money,
Do you mean I can *really* get my name in the credits at the end of your blockbuster, Oscar winning film. I'll say whatever you want as long as I get to share in the dinero grande. Now if dinero actually means your Mr. De Niro, my apolgies.
Post up a resume.
gm
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dinerogrande
Mountain climber
Mexico
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Feb 19, 2009 - 07:22pm PT
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Hey Gene,
Didn't think it was needed, but I guess I should have put a disclaimer in there... only serious need apply.
Thanks for the laugh. C.A.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Feb 19, 2009 - 10:03pm PT
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"Didn't think it was needed, but I guess I should have put a disclaimer in there... only serious need apply."
Oh HO! Are you ever in the wrong place. If you'll accept only serious communiques, you might as well close up shop and donate that dinero grande as seed money to our soon-to-be-established Down N Out Poor Climber's Fund.
....But I wonder if the mention of a movie deal is going to put a flame under Licky's butt on his book.... Three years since the first post, isn't it?
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Licky
Mountain climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2009 - 10:18pm PT
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Ya think Mr. Dinero would want to talk to me?
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Wonder
climber
WA
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Feb 19, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
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yeah I think you should have blackened out a bunch of those names in the Yosemite Notes. Some of that is classified.
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Licky
Mountain climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2009 - 10:49pm PT
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Wonder if I could do the same with a phone interview.
"Hi, I'm (pause) and I can tell you about (pause) who (pause...pause)
after he and (pause) ran up to (pause...pause...pause)".
Yeah, I could sanitize a phone conversation.
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Wonder
climber
WA
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Feb 19, 2009 - 11:40pm PT
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if your writing to me Licky You have forgotten because It's been so long since you outted about righting a book. I lived way far south @ the time. Sometimes we would have Guests. Sometimes they sleep on the floor.
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Licky
Mountain climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2009 - 02:40am PT
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Rok...I've been thinking about your comment about the first to
the bank wins. That was how it used to be. Now it all depends on
which bank you selected.
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LeBob
Gym climber
san francisco
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Feb 20, 2009 - 04:56am PT
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I was a senior in high school in '77 and one of my girlfriend's friends was a climber in the valley––Martha ( she changed her name or climbed/competed under the name, Jade . . . anyway) and since I'd biked (as in Schwinn Varsity) there a few times, from san jose, she asked if I could escort her there . . . upon arriving in camp 4, we learned about the plane crash and the news that all the climbers and so on were hiking up in the night and retreiving the bales of pot.
One of the many climbers in the camp, was a guy named Jack. He had a big head of hair and a scraggly beard and if I recall, drove a total beater mustang convertible. I think the joke with Jack was," Hey Jack, what'd you have for breakfast?" and he'd pull something out of his beard, "Looks like eggs?"
So one night Jack went up and early in the morning, he finds Martha and somewhat reluctantly shows the two of us his haul––a somewhat gas smelling bale of pot, drying in the back of his mustang. He took off shortly there after, as the law were everywhere.
A few days later, in rolls Jack. He'd shaved his entire head and beard off and bought a new . . . or used but fine, red caddy convertible???? I'd only met him briefly, but I recognized him, even with the complete shave job. Martha didn't.
I left the valley maybe a week later and sadly, Jack, who was on the local rescue team, got called out to go rescue someone and as I heard it, walked off a switch-back in the dark of night with bad weather, Bummer. If anyone knows of the whereabouts of good old Martha, I'd love to say hello and to Jack, I'm thinking of ya.
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dinerogrande
Mountain climber
Mexico
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Feb 20, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
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RE; Lodestar '77 Crash.. Anyone who can put the correct names to these initials, feel free to email me direct. A few are easy, a matter of record. But only someone really in the know will have the rest. I'm not yanking ropes here. The project is very real. Thanks, C.A.
JN / JG / JS / MC / PG / JB / TB
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Licky
Mountain climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2009 - 02:17am PT
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How about a friendly suggestion? Why not start your own thread, provide your name like
I have, and see what you get in the way of responses?
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