Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
bob
climber
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 02:59pm PT
|
Cinnamon Girl has bad bolts but c'mon folks your gonna die anyways. Just don't fall on that thing. Its easy 9. The top crack is not 10. Harder, but then again, its 10.
Most of the routes on the right side either have new bolts, or were put up recent enough to have good enough bolts.
A big justice would be Cinnamon Girl I guess for the head, also the last pitch of Tom Thumb would be service for sure. Don't know about Ed W's route Thin Ice. Not Thin Slice, that's got new bolts. Thin Ice I believe only had pins and only has one BAD one now.
Pate, from the sounds of it I think maybe you are thinking of the top pitch of Granite Jungle. Its rad OW and pretty burly if done wrong. Not wrong, just done a certain way. That corner system is one giant one over from the coke Bottle corner. Delphinia Lightening Ass, Dream Weaver start there as well. What a great pitch that Granite Jungle. 9+++++++++ or 5.8.
The Girdle has been all rebolted............Rusty B. rap anchor after the traverse on Once in a Blue Moon to get down to the ledge below the 9 face pitch of Kingpin, but if you want to free it in the rating range ya gotta down climb that pitch of Kingpin to the ledge then head over to Candyland. My bud and I did it that way. Boy the seconder has quite a lead on their hands. The high route goes for sure, but @ 11. It will go. It will go. Go Go.
Lotta nice bolts on those old routes now. Not all, but quite a few. Sheet, Dream Weaver has a new bolt on the last pitch. Still have to crux out with barely any gear before you get to it, but........I think its a bit lower than it used to be, but heads up!
No more pins on Whiteout. Just two bolts at the beginning. Those went in along time ago. Way changed the nature of those first moves. Once in a Blue Moon sprouted a bolt on the 10 traverse pitch. Sometimes I clip it, sometimes I don't. Depends on the day.
Anything else?
bob j. on lunch.
ps. Bill I'd like to do some of that stuff with ya if you have time.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
|
I'd contribute time, effort and hardware to swap out some of the remaining old junk if you need some help.
Would be nice to meet you guys as well, put names to faces.
Granite Jungle offwidth...shudder....
|
|
fluffy
Trad climber
chainsaw city
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
|
"I want to know how a line like Sword Of Damocles can be rated anywhere near 5.11. it's a 35 foot climb in a choss-heap canyon that is best top-roped. rusty baillie ratings are not to be trusted, or sprayed about."
you sound angry
angry and confused
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 04:03pm PT
|
Pate - don't think Dreamweaver is offwidth.
Second pitch is a hand crack (starts out 4" and gets smaller), then third is dihedral with a bolt as I recall.
I think Bob was talking about the last pitch on Granite Jungle.
About 6"-9" wide pitch black maw of torture.
It's over there near Cheiu Hoi (in fact, the OW is just left of the last pitch of CH).
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
|
Right here dude...
It looks so innocent.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 06:10pm PT
|
Anybody know anything about a Leo Henson route at Granite Mountain out on the arete between Candyland and Good, Bad, & Ugly called Rattle and Hum? Just curious if it had been completed or was just a rumor, or whatever.
Photo to keep things on topic...
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 06:26pm PT
|
Shot from the top of the buttress to the right of The Face.
Damn...gotta post another shot now...
|
|
bc
climber
Prescott, AZ
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 07:08pm PT
|
That's funny Bob, and you're probably right. Actually it doesn't look any worse than many runout Sierra slab climbs, but those bolts are pretty suspect. You in town? I'll be looking to get some time up there this fall. Give me a call, there's new things happening... Thanks for the offer Steelmnkey! Nice photos, too. Lizard Head, woo hoo! I always seem to run into rattlers when I'm out there! I've heard of Rattle and Hum, but don't know much about it either. Isn't there a bolt or pin or something that leads out there? I'll let you all know when things come together for any rebolting efforts.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 10:01pm PT
|
Thanks bc. Anytime. Might be looking for partners this fall as well if you're interested. I'm pretty much down to one remaining that's willing to hike up there.
Made it up to Lizard Head once. New Years Day, can't recall the year, but do recall that the wife wasn't particularly amused by the bushwhacking we did. :-)
Another angle on Lizard Head, shot from the top of the right side.
|
|
treeman
climber
mule city
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 10:23pm PT
|
steelmnky- I climbed parts of Rattle and hum with Leo during his putting the thing up. I recall (barely independent?) climbing along side candyland at the bottom, then a cool pitch up a slabby crack into and out of some sentry box looking feature ( maybe a bolt or pin here ). Dont' recall how he finshed it , but he did climb the whole thing. The name had to do with rock quality down low.TM
|
|
pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
|
Dang Bob, never heard of anyone else doing the Girdle.
Not sure but I suspect Tim Coats and I bagged the FFA of it over to the Kingpin ledge.
While the traversing pitch onto the ledge was wild, crispy critter 5.11 I thought and much worse for Tim on the second, I thought it was free climbing the Blue Moon pitch that was out there.
Where's the bolt on it ? Shiixx looking at the Cramer "guide", it shows a belay at the bottom, 2 bolts in the corner and one over the top of the corner !? WTF, what I recall is one manky ole Rusty bolt in that area. Also Cramer shows the Altar of the Sun pitch 8 as being A1, we free climbed that bit in '82.
Retro bolting at GM, wow, what have things come to?
I guess folks have to know about the route to avoid over bolting it.
The way we did it, the rope went around a nasty corner to the base of the dihedral (think we were belayed in or near witblitz), then some moves up that I recall were not all that well protected, flared stemming?, then some 5.10 at the top of the corner. Is that about right ? As I recall, somewhere in there I got to clip a bolt and it felt pretty good to do that even though it was manky old. I don't recall if it was at the base of the corner (I think maybe it was) or higher up.
The belay at the top of that Blue Moon dihedral has to be one of the more spectacular ones at GM. Hanging out in space fur sure.
I see AofS shows a belay over on the face ?
As long as we're on The Mnt, anyone ever repeat Brimstone ?
If nothing else, as I recall the first pitch was actually some good 5.10 crack climbing hiding out right of Granite Jungle and left of Cheu Hoi.
Steve, I'll have to think about that biner unclipping and write it up.
|
|
nick d
Trad climber
nm
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 11:05pm PT
|
When I saw this clipping up thread I thought the story needed a little fleshing out. Like many news stories it’s got some basic facts but lacks the finer detail necessary to really appreciate it. Here’s the way I remember it.
I had come to Flagstaff to climb with Tim Coats, Larry’s younger brother. We had begun climbing together as kids in Farmington. By the time we were in college Tim had far outstripped me in both ability and courage, so I was hoping to get dragged up some good stuff on this trip. Tim didn’t disappoint me and we did some great climbs.
One of the routes we did was Firecat, a really fun adventure for me. I’m pretty sure Tim had done the first ascent not too much earlier. We had taken Larry’s dog, Pika with us. Pika had quite a reputation, he had survived being run over, and among his other attributes he would (did) fight any male dog he encountered. He could really be a handful.
We got back to town late in the day and sacked out at Tim’s apartment. He lived next to The Alpineer, the store Larry partly owned. Tim’s place was close to the back door of the store.
Larry had been barhopping and came by to get his dog. He woke us up and we talked about our climb for a few minutes and then he left. We went back to bed only to hear Larry screaming at the top of his lungs a few moments later. We barreled outside sure that Pika was ripping up some other dog, but no.
Instead we see Larry, running backwards down the street, dragging a big Indian guy by his hair. This guy is on his back, flailing away at Larry trying to break free.
The chain of events went something like this: after leaving us Larry got into his car and pulled into the street, glancing at the front of his store as he went. He sees that the front door is smashed in and boy is he pissed! Having endured a couple of break-ins before, combined with being a little liquored up, he was ready for action. So he quickly pulls back into the parking lot and sends Pika the terror dog in through the back door of the shop.
Pika runs in and takes his normal position in the store, just another day at the office. Larry follows him in, thinking it was cool since Pika wasn’t acting up. He walks in and heads to the front to check the damage, only to come face to face with the robber, who was trying on some boots. The dude immediately breaks for it, out the door and running down the street with Larry in hot pursuit.
Larry can easily outrun this guy, but soon realizes all he’s doing is getting farther from help, so he grabs a handful of this guys hair, jerks him over backwards and starts dragging him back to the store.
About the time he gets to the store Tim and I make the scene. I help Larry sit on the guy while Tim sprints barefoot through the broken glass from the door to call the cops.
When they showed I remember Larry having to convince them that the aforementioned boots were indeed his property, as they were so scuffed up from being dragged for half a block.
All in all, it was quite a day.
Michael Smith
|
|
treeman
climber
mule city
|
|
|
Aug 29, 2009 - 12:17am PT
|
Thanks nickd that was killer!
|
|
bc
climber
Prescott, AZ
|
|
|
Aug 29, 2009 - 01:48am PT
|
pk, The girdle in the "guide" is from info I recieved from Rusty. He called it Alter of the Sun, with a FA of the complete line in 1973. Not certain where or when the bolts showed up in the dihedral. The A1 pitch on the topo is not for Alter. At that point Rusty has it as 50' rap from the belay at 7 down to the ledge, not the A1 shown out right of 7. I don't exactly recall where the A1 description for this section came from. How hard was the climbing at that point? bc
Edit: Rusty did not have any FFA info on this and I failed to find out anymore about it. Your ascent is probably the FFA.
|
|
bob
climber
|
|
|
Aug 29, 2009 - 09:21am PT
|
I led Brimstone in its entirety last year. Finished on Cracknup. If I could have had a brain to think with upon reaching he crux of Briimstone I would have sh#t my pants, but no room for thought. Just get r done. That is by and far the most dangerous lead I've done up there. Brilliant hidden gem really, but one will hit the ledge if you blow the last, crux, move on Brimstone. Last pitch of Cheu Hoi up to cracknup is one hell of a stellar pitch. One of the best at the Mt. Kinda like all the rest!!!
My ride is coming! Off to the waterfall!!!!!!
Bill I work at the PC warehouse now. Around full time these days.
Bob j.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 29, 2009 - 11:53am PT
|
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 29, 2009 - 05:17pm PT
|
A little blast from the past... from the '73 Lovejoy guide:
THE GIRDLE (incomplete), 5.9, A?
FA: (1973). The climbing on this route, so far, has been done by Rusty Baillie, Roy Smith, and David Lovejoy.
Pro (1973): Most of the pitons needed to climb this route are already fixed. Carry a small selection of angle pitons and blades, plus lots of nuts.
On British crags, when most of the vertical lines have been completed, it is traditional to establish a route that horizontally traverses a large portion of the cliff. This sort of route is called a girdle. On Granite Mountain a girdle route is gradually being pieced together. After completion it will be the longest route in the area and probably the first Yankee Girdle. It will be characterized by the lack of easy pitches, comfortable belay ledges, and fast means of escape. THE GIRDLE will be an almost totally free route, which will cover many previously unclimbed sections of the cliff, far above the ground. THE GIRDLE is presented in this guide in order to make the publication as complete as possible.
Start from the top section of MAGICIAN move right to the top of The Grid.
Use a high fixed piton to safeguard a descent down the obivious crack in the left hand side of The Grid. Down-climb the crack (5.8) until it is possible to traverse out right (5.9) towards some obvious ledges which lead right, to a good belay stance in the CHIM CHIMNEY crack. Protection using the upper belay will probably suffice, although there are some good nut placements on the traverse.
Continue out right and up a sloping ramp to a fixed piton. Follow a handrail right to another fixed piton (5.9). Move down a sloping crack and then up over a bulge (5.9). Belay on a stance on CHARLES WELLINGTON HICKS.
Continue along a moderate handrail leading right. Halfway along there is a resting spot and good pin placement. Continue (5.8) to a belay on MAGNOLIA THUNDER PUSSY.
Note: From this point you can easily escape upward to the top off the cliff. This is the only place on the remainder of the route where you can exit upward without encountering at least 5.8 climbing.
Move right, across a broken area to a good ledge. Continue right, pass blocks, and slide into a crawlway (5.6). Crawl to an awkward crack belay on GREEN SAVIOR.
Crawl right a few feet to a fixed piton. A0 on this piton and the two bolts which follow it. Then climb free, right, to a good-sized platform on WITBLITZ.
The next pitch has not been completely climbed but it will probably traverse right to the base of a hanging dihedral. Move over a bulge to a sloping ledge at the base of the dihedral. Climb the dihedral and belay on a sloping ledge at its top on the left (at least 5.9).
This pitch is also unclimbed. Move right to a grassy ledge on SORCERER.
Climb 25 feet up SORCERER to a small ledge (5.6). From there make a short rappel to a sloping ledge with a bolt anchor.
Move right along the top of several cracks, using one pin and one good nut for protection. Move up and clip into a bolt and make a hard move (5.8) to the junction of COATAMUNDI WHITEOUT. Swing right to a semi-hanging belay on two bolts.
Climb the fourth class crack above to broken blocks and ledges beneath The Roof.
The next pitch is the same as the fourth pitch on CANDYLAND. Make an extremely delicate move up to the roof (bolt for protection). Hand-traverse out right, around a blind corner, and awkwardly throw your body into a crawlway. Crawl to a belay by the junction of a vertical crack. (3 fixed pitons, 1 bolt, and 1 nut for protection).
Continue right along a ledge as far as possible and then set up a long pendulum rappel to a two-bush ramp on THE CLASSIC.
Climb the remainder of THE CLASSIC to the top of the Flying Buttress.
Finish, thankfully, up the HIGH EXPOSURE EXIT.
|
|
drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2009 - 05:46pm PT
|
*BUMP*
Hey, BC- I saw you mentioned in this months Sunset Magazine as a top up and coming artist. Congrats. Post a link to your amazing paintings please. Jefe
Thanks to all you Mtn Afficionados!
|
|
bc
climber
Prescott, AZ
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
|
Jefe, yeah I heard about that. I'm not sure how they heard about me. My website (blog really) is www.billcramerpaintings.com. Thanks for asking. Cool GM photo!
|
|
rick d
climber
tucson, az
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
|
GBU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!