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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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From the outside y'all look sillier than those damn mixed climbers scratching around in chossy caves and then arguing about who did it with or without spurs.
Oh yeah? Well, I hear you altered the ice to make some of the key placements on one of those M-hard routes. And also that you had a secret little electric motor and propeller on some of those record hang glider flights. And anyway, you Canadians don't even have to pay to climb, but if you think you can bring socialized climbing to the US you better think again.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Ditto what Gilwad says.
And sorry my sarcasm about "definitive sources" wasn't clearer. I thought it amusing that there was such a definition.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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I haven't been on that SLAB, but I've climbed routes in locations to both sides, and from the sides and above, it sure looks like a SLAB.
A giant SLAB of glass, tilted at the right angle, say..umm 70 degrees or so will be quite difficult to climb, but that doesn't mean it's not a SLAB.
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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It looks like the temps are going to cooperate, but we have some monsoon moisture coming our way. What do people think? Could this cause them trouble?
Special Weather Statement
SPECIAL WEATHER STATEMENT
NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY - HANFORD CA
806 AM PDT TUE JUL 5 2011
CAZ089>099-052230-
WEST CENTRAL SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY-EAST CENTRAL SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY-
SOUTHWESTERN SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY-SOUTHEASTERN SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY-
MARIPOSA MADERA AND FRESNO COUNTY FOOTHILLS-
TULARE COUNTY FOOTHILLS-KERN COUNTY MOUNTAINS-
SIERRA NEVADA FROM YOSEMITE TO KINGS CANYON-
TULARE COUNTY MOUNTAINS-INDIAN WELLS VALLEY-
SOUTHEASTERN KERN COUNTY DESERT-
806 AM PDT TUE JUL 5 2011
...CONVECTIVE OUTLOOK...
A DEEP SURGE OF MONSOON MOISTURE HAS MOVED INTO CENTRAL
CALIFORNIA. THUNDERSTORMS WILL BE INCREASING ACROSS THE SOUTHERN
SIERRA NEVADA...THE TEHACHAPI MOUNTAINS...AND THE KERN COUNTY
DESERTS TODAY...AND CONTINUE INTO WEDNESDAY AT LEAST. SOME OF THE
THUNDERSTORMS COULD LINGER OR EVEN DEVELOP DURING THE NIGHTTIME
HOURS.
THE FLOW ALOFT WILL BE SUCH THAT A FEW THUNDERSTORMS COULD DRIFT
INTO PARTS OF THE SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY...ESPECIALLY IN THE SOUTH
END...AND OVER AND NEAR THE FOOTHILLS ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE
VALLEY ALONG AND WEST OF INTERSTATE 5.
SOME OF THE THUNDERSTORMS COULD PRODUCE VERY HEAVY RAIN IN A
SHORT PERIOD OF TIME...GUSTY WINDS...AS WELL AS DANGEROUS CLOUD TO
GROUND LIGHTNING. FLASH FLOODING IS POSSIBLE IN THE MOUNTAINS AND
DESERTS.
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Gene
climber
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John,
I'll see your weather report and raise you one.
The National Weather Service in Sacramento has issued a
The National Weather Service in Sacramento has issued a
* Severe Thunderstorm Warning for...
southwestern Alpine County in central California...
this includes the cities of... Lake Alpine... Bear Valley...
northeastern Amador County in central California...
extreme northeastern Calaveras County in central California...
north central Tuolumne County in central California...
* until 300 PM PDT
* at 200 PM PDT... National Weather Service Doppler radar indicated
two severe thunderstorms continuing to grow in size that will be
capable of producing quarter size hail. One storm was located
near Lookout Peak... or 6 miles east of Lake Alpine... and moving
west at 5 mph. The other storm was located near Kennedy Meadow and
moving towards the west at 5 miles per hour.
In addition both of these storms will produce very heavy rainfall and
may cause flooding of low lying areas.
* These severe thunderstorms will be near...
Lake Alpine... Bear Valley and 7 miles east of Tamarack by 230 PM
PDT and over State Route 108 near Dardanelle by 215 PM...
Precautionary/preparedness actions...
In addition to large hail and damaging winds... continuous cloud to
ground lightning is occurring with this storm. Move indoors
immediately! Lightning is one of natures number one killers.
Remember... if you can hear thunder... you are close enough to be
struck by lightning.
If on a lake get out of the water and move indoors or inside a vehicle.
Remember... lightning can strike out to 15 miles from the parent
thunderstorm. If you can hear thunder... you are close enough to be
struck by lightning. Move to safe shelter now. Don't be caught on
the water in a thunderstorm!
Lat... Lon 3812 12004 3855 12029 3861 11987 3854 11979
3825 11965
time... Mot... loc 2106z 082deg 5kt 3846 11991
I sure as heck hope that both systems miss Kait and Ammon. But, I guess, if they complete WoS, we will have nothing to rant about.
g
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Quarter size hail might divot the poor climb.
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Gene
climber
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Infinite drama bump!
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Hail will totally chip new hook placements, invalidating any alleged ascent.
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fosburg
climber
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Crazy! Why is this route controversial? Rob Slater told me it was harder than the Sea of Dreams. Kevin Thaw says it is "modern A3" (for all you old dads, that means A5, get on up there Mimi Dude if you think that's light). Freaking UNREPEATED for how long? It's definitely a hard aid route. Maybe not a brilliant natural line but certainly bad-ass by the commonly accepted standards.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Kevin-your voice of reason is totally inappropriate to this thread. Please delete and repost some hysterical, unreasonable hearsay...
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Sheesh you Californicators are looking like a bunch-o-bung holes. Exactly how much time and electrons can you squander whining about one freekin' route? And why?
There is a whole world outside of the big valley. Go climb something.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Why, that forecast sounds exactly like the same forecast I've been climbing through on El Cap for the last month and a half. What's the big deal?
I never bailed ....
... except once.
Here's the animated radar loop for the area:
http://www.intellicast.com/national/radar/current.aspx?location=USCA0987&animate=true
Put your rain fly on, Ammon and Kait!
I asked the VIA bus driver for a quick stop at the west end of the Meadow for a look-see on the way out this morning, but he wouldn't. I thought I saw their ledge at the top of 2, but it was just a quick glance through the bus window.
And here's your Dr. Piton Big Wall Travel Tip of the Day:
The dirtbag cognoscenti are already aware that the best public transport route to Yosemite is via the Amtrak to Merced and thence the VIA bus. The train is, of course, BYOB. When returning home, there is enough time at the Merced Amtrak station to make a Bee-double-E-double-R-U-N, a Beer Run. But where? It just so happens that only a block and a half away [about 150m to Hosers like Anders] from the Amtrak at the corner of K and 23rd is a little convenience store that sells the coldest beer in Merced. It's true, it says so on the sign.
Here I was faced with a dilemma - the forty-pounder of Olde E., or the choice swill consumed at the Centre of the Universe [the El Cap Bridge] which is King Cobra. I couldn't decide, so I chose both.
Along with a two-dollar bag of BBQ pork rinds, the total came to $7.48 US, about five bucks Canadian at the current exchange rate. "Holy frig," I said to the Mexican guy behind the counter, "this is great. A single bottle of this stuff at home would cost more than seven bucks."
"Yeah," he agreed. "But I hear you guys have to go to the beer store to get it. Even so, I'd love to live in Canada," he says. "I saw a TV show where they don't even have to lock the doors."
"That's true," I said. "And there's two reasons why. The first is that in Canada, crime is against the law. And second, there aren't any Mexicans in Canada."
So I grabbed my two bottles of beer and pork rinds, cleverly disguised in a black plastic bag, and clanked my way back to the Amtrak station. There I stood in line to buy my train ticket next to a rather gruff looking officer of the law, who had a half dozen rough-but-very-happy-looking girls in tow, each with a California Department of Corrections card in their hand, waiting to get their train tickets. Seems this was their first day of freedom in quite some time.
After tossing my pigs into the train, the cop stood on the platform and watched the girls disappear. "So you let them all go, eh?" I asked him.
"Yeah," he said, "but I'll see them back in a couple weeks."
Wow, I thought, did you learn to become an @sshole, or were you just born that way?
I went inside the train, talked to a couple of the girls, congratulated them on their big day, and gave them one of my 40's. Sometimes you gotta "pay it forward". Their smiles of delight said it all.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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yo
climber
Mudcat Spire
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Pete's on a train full of paroled hookers.
That's your report for today, July 6.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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"That's true," I said. "And there's two reasons why. The first is that in Canada, crime is against the law. And second, there aren't any Mexicans in Canada."
Did you learn to become an @sshole, or were you just born that way?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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"That's true," I said. "And there's two reasons why. The first is that in Canada, crime is against the law. And second, there aren't any Mexicans in Canada."
Did you learn to become an @sshole, or were you just born that way?
Have to agree with that one, Pete.
Hood River is 1/3 Hispanic, and I'll bet has as many fine upstanding citizens as the non-hispanic population, it sure does look like it when I read the list of Honor Roll students in the newspaper.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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C'mon guys, it was a total joke, and he knew I was kidding. There was absolutely no offence taken.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Fattrad,
These girls were all in their 30's, 40's and 50's. The two I was talking to both bought bloody marys at the bar in the train showing ID.
No WAY could any of them been hookers. They'd have been unemployed.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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From the outside y'all look sillier than those damn mixed climbers scratching around in chossy caves and then arguing about who did it with or without spurs.
Hey,
Style matters.
... well it does to me, anyway.
On topic.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Yeah, getting down on WoS and not on Bridwell for his routes is certainly strange. Still though, any first ascent on El Cap was done in better style than I could have done it so I really have no leeway to complain.
Shredding on the WoS team and not Bridwell is misguided and wrong.
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