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lucander
Trad climber
Shawangunks, New York
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Feb 25, 2013 - 08:37am PT
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Modern Gunks icons.
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defective detective
Trad climber
da gunks
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Feb 25, 2013 - 09:28am PT
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Q: Why would anyone poop on that ledge?
A: Same reason people would bring boujie take-out food up there.
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Oldfattradguy2
Trad climber
Here and there
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We hauled kegs up there a couple of times......
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ruppell
climber
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lucander
Whiskey Mike is rad. Next time you run into him see if he wants to do Low Exposure. I was conned into doing it with him about eight years ago. He was all racked up and I was on my way home. How could I say no? He couldn't do it so I ended up leading it. I still have a scar on my right hand from that jam at the lip. Fun times.
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lucander
Trad climber
Shawangunks, New York
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Rupell,
I climbed with Whiskey Mike on Monday (before I read your post). As we walked into the Uberfall he mentioned Low Exposure! Seeing it wet, he chose Acronub instead.
He's coming over tonight for a potluck and to watch Higher Ground, I'll tell him you said hi.
Lucander
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Mar 20, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
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Folks, its finally warm enough to climb and I'm going crazy in Washington DC. Anyone want to make plans for a weekend in the gunks or let me tag along? I can get out of work at 2:30 on Fridays but would arrive late because of traffic no matter what. I can also stretch mondays a little - my employer only asks me to work 40 hours but is very flexible about when.
I have not climbed a lot in the last 20 years but used to be a fairly solid 11a trad leader. When I checked my guidebook, I ticked off about 20 5.10s there, and soloed about 30-40 routes in the 5.5 range, most onsight. I've also done a few walls, lived in both New Paltz and Boulder, and was way into climbing at one time.
Although I'm probably a 5.7 climber right now, I still think I'm a 5.10 climber and in good shape, running regularly for years. Unfortunately all my gear is in storage in Colorado except harness and shoes. I have a minivan and can pick you up if you're on the way.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
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A short while after I was born Jim McCarthy was showing the world how a Vulgarian gets around. A roof that is.
Classic old world technique!
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MH2
climber
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May 11, 2013 - 12:20am PT
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"Climbers are people who relax in thin positions."
I'll be looking for an opportunity to use that line.
Thanks for the post. I think I looked up that issue of SI in a library one time, but the pictures don't match. Maybe I am remembering an ad that McCarthy was in.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
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Old style Foops Bump...
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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May 12, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
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What a tangled web we weave . . .
But Jim looks pretty good up there. I kinda miss those days of naive adventure and exploration of style and accomplishment. A time before formality and paradigm triumphed and World Cups appeared.
Jim's still with us - a very accomplished retired lawyer who displayed a wonderful balance between profession and avocation.
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ruppell
climber
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May 12, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
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Open up Swains guide and go to any page. On those pages you will see Jim McCarthy as either the FA or FFA of at least one climb. Most impressive to me was the FFA of Retribution in 1961. 50 years later with modern gear it's still proud. In 1961 I can only imagine what people would have thought. I'd like to hear those stories from some of you that where there at the time. Like who got the second free ascent? There where some strong climbers there at the time so who was it?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
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Post it and they will come...Your question, that is.
Just a phone call away if not.
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Jimmer
Trad climber
Orland Park, IL
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May 14, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
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Don't forget the Vulgarians! They made the Gunks famous with their shenanigans.
I have these and several other Gunks guides for sale. Shoot me an email and I can send you lists. jimmerson@earthlink.net
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portent
climber
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May 14, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
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Email sent Jimmer
-kovar
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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May 14, 2013 - 07:06pm PT
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Can't wait, I'm going climbing in the Gunkz for the first time in two decades tomorrow!!!
Easy O, watch out!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2013 - 10:27am PT
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You are in for a TREAT my man.
Make sure to do Diretississima to start High Exposure if you have your eye on that classic.
Bring a healthy selection of wires too.
Grab a couple of jugs for me and don't pass by the Brauhaus.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Donini eastern bump!
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portent
Social climber
your mom's house
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From Vulgarian Digest #2
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
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Nice dose of VD, portent!
Thanks for spreading the love.
This post would fit in on the "Deli Days" thread nicely.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
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Laura Smith let me know recently that Harvey Arnold passed away this summer so I would like to thank him in absentia for sharing his wonderful photos with us and for being such an indelible character. I met him on my first visit to the Gunks back in 2008 after we had corresponded a bit about my posting his work.
I had filming equipment with me to record what I could of the proceedings and Harvey ran interference for me by whacking folks who were unlucky enough to stray into my line of sight with his weighty cane.
Rest in Peace Harvey and come on back when you get the existential itch again.
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