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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Aug 27, 2015 - 04:46pm PT
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you give a madman a gun and hes gonna kill somebody. These amateurs have no idea what they are doing.
Roger...no more bolts at woodson unless they are on your own route that you chopped a trail to. Everything accessible is just fine, so leave it all alone and have fun climbing like everyone else
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Aug 27, 2015 - 04:47pm PT
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DMR where are those bolts?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 27, 2015 - 05:43pm PT
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He PM'd me. No reply, and I deleted it after reading it once. Too tired of trying to articulate Woodson's peculiar and much-respected history to kids who've never heard of Frank Sacherer or Bob Kamps. What we have here is a youngish UCSD college student recently relocated to San Diego from some climbing gym back east. Apparently his parents bought him a hammer drill, hoping to keep him off the drugs, and busy shooting entry-level three-bolt clips-ups onto random slabs that got bouldered 40 years ago as twilight warm-downs by the random drunken buffoons of that era (I'm looking at you, Ron Amick.) God forbid this Straight-Outta-Asshat baller ever discovers Star Face or Greg's Face or Prune Face, and on and on. Woodson never has and never will be a destination area for n00bs looking to randomly spray bolts across every 30' slab in sight.
Old and bitter? No, not one bit. My best days are long gone but I really dig watching the new local crews rolling though and understanding what they find, the context and history, and rising to the challenge. But I am totally unwilling to stand by and passively observe decades of pretty amazing history -- the foundation of Woodson's stout mental challenges, and a big part of its weird-ass allure -- get pissed on by ignorant asshats. So yes, every time we're burdened with yet another feeble-minded, uninformed vandal who naively aspires to paint a mustache on the Mona Lisa, I'm gonna pipe up.
Mike Paul and I, when we were just barely 5.10/5.11 climbers, would go up day after day after day with shoes, chalk, and water; maybe scroll a pinner or two of Fallbrook homegrown to lubricate the better angels of our ambition. No rope, no gear, no food, no pads...just a fire in our teenaged bellies, a pure and absolute passion for climbing those testpieces from a generation only four or five years removed from ours. Learned a shitload about life in '77 and '78, when we were both still to young to buy a beer. "The best of times" does not even describe the mid-week session in February '78 now known to us both as Big Wednesday.
Roger...no more bolts at Woodson unless they are on your own route that you chopped a trail to
Gotta disagree, Ron. That's a Pandora's box right there.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Aug 27, 2015 - 05:57pm PT
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Not a Woodson local, but have bouldered there a lot and Vato and Shawn use to take me there to wire some problems. Hope this place stays a BOULDER area. Those that put the problems up and set the ETHICS for the area should be respected for what they did in the past. If ya wanna bolt boulders, go find your area and have at it....RESPECT Woodson for what it has always has been....a boulderer's area.
RIP Shawn
Peace
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Aug 27, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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You can see Uncertianty Principal in the shot. I know the rock those are on. Hmmm, those are for TR'ing.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Aug 27, 2015 - 09:54pm PT
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That was tossing the dog a bone bob-o that dude never broke a trail in his life and isnt gonna start. Its like giving you permission to move the moon, sounds gracious but aint happening. Ive busted a good mile of trail through virgin boulders in the past year and a half, i mean stuff so brushbound ive had to use a battery powered chainsaw at times, and its surprising the dearth of lines, let alone classics. Not many are as deeply engaged in the brush as i have been, and if i aint finding it then some drugstore cowboy who doesnt even own a brush saw sure aint.
But i defer to a little bubble of wisdom that somehow eminated from your sedentary self, and restate that.
Leave your f ucking drill at home unless you want that f ucking thing all the way up your azz. I dont care if it takes specialized equipment or surgical procedures, any more bolts and its going up your azz, and i have a dozen or more friends who are all burlier than you who will be glad to help me get the job done. Youre out voted and out numbered, you are wrong and you are really pushing it now.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Aug 27, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
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Here I am making the first clip on the FA of the Bobby Brown Arete 5.11a(R)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 27, 2015 - 10:29pm PT
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Hey Burch, I thought the Boulder 13 crux was sneaking past the dogs at one of those houses you sorta walk through the backyard of on your way...
...when we went out there we bushwacked a whole lot, but basically it's another Woodson boulder problem, at night... I never saw a bolt but we didn't bring anything but a chock bag and shoes anyway...
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Aug 28, 2015 - 03:24am PT
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Boulder 13 can be accessed easily without having to risk dismemberment by guard dogs. However, for most suitors dismemberment will be carried out by the problem itself.
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BAMF
Trad climber
S,D, / Ca.
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Aug 28, 2015 - 12:48pm PT
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I pity the po fool who is desecrates my pristine Woodson
Granite! You must be some entitled punk to think you can
Walk into an established toprope..or lead area and without
Reverence to the history of the area or a local consensus...
Start welding in steel to my clean godly granite?
Now that your Violated Woodson Law...there's only one recourse
Sharing a cell with BAMF...my guess is your mommy didn't put a
Good lashing on you hindquarters from the box.
We will take care of that ....BAMF likes little cracker
Beaches....come serve your rightful masta...got a big surprise
For you!
Now take your ball and go home...sucka!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 28, 2015 - 01:16pm PT
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The Knights Of The Chaparral Fortress will defend our virgin princess, to the death. They shall not pass Verdon!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 28, 2015 - 01:29pm PT
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Ah, Boulder 13. I did in that bouldering contest that Werner Landry set up in 1977 or '78. I think I've only done it once since and that was a year or so afterwards. I wonder how hard it would feel now? I've never seen it rated. It was given a 13 in the contest. Probably 5.11+.
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Aug 28, 2015 - 03:32pm PT
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13 means 13. 13 stack rocks and finish mantle to success, 5.6?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 28, 2015 - 04:14pm PT
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Phantom X, what do I have to do, teach myself hieroglyphics to figure out what you're talking about?
By the way, the 13 was never meant to be 5.13. The bouldering contest set it's own standards. I believe it may have been the highest grade in the contest.
Edit: Took a crash course and like where you are going with this, Phantom X.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Aug 28, 2015 - 07:03pm PT
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I liked it a lot better back before the house was there.
You could drive up and park right before the locked gate.
Plenty of room for climbers and hikers, around 10-12 cars.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 28, 2015 - 07:08pm PT
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I did it exactly once -- from the honest-to-god, way-back-up-a-in-there real sit start -- and for weeks afterwards whenever I tried to move, my body felt and sounded like a broken lawn chair. Whatever Boulder 13 is "rated", its quite a bit harder from Mother Superior.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 28, 2015 - 07:17pm PT
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I liked it a lot better back before the house was there. You good drive up and park right before the locked gate. Plenty of room for climbers and hikers, around 10-12 cars.
Hell man, we drove our cars up and down the road many, many times -- whenever we could talk the owner of the car into it. Took Galen's blue VW Bug up there a bunch! Used to easy to be easy to catch a ride to the top with the tower maintenance guys as well. Those were the days! That gate was a joke; 20 different locks on it and all you had to do was push it open. I finally stopped driving up there in 1985 when one of the people who live in the houses ratted me out and a CHP officer, who was actually pretty cool about it, told me I needed to put down the hash pipe and park my car down at the bottom.
Seriously, great f*#kin' times!
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Aug 28, 2015 - 07:36pm PT
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"That gate was a joke; 20 different locks on it and all you had to do was push it open."
Remember many times being really tired at the end of the day and giving it a big push and it was open !
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Aug 28, 2015 - 07:56pm PT
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Somehow a friend has a key... Dropped pizza off at crucible one Sunday night. A real gentleman.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Aug 29, 2015 - 02:57pm PT
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So i went up last night and removed the bolts that Roger placed, and its a dam good thing I did too, those things were an accident waiting to happen. This fool is completely incompetent and used 5/16" bolts in 3/8" drilled holes, then advertised for people to climb it.
When i got to the first bolt i pulled out my 9/16" wrench, which is the head size of a 3/8" bolt, but it was too big. My 1/2" wrench fit the bolt head. Imagine my surprise when i gave the wrench 1/2 turn and then was able to pull out whole bolt, sleeve and all, with my fingers. Next bolt same thing only the sleeve caught on the lip of the hole and i didnt fiddle with it. Third bolt, same thing. One twist of the wrench and pulled it out with my fingers.
This is criminal negligence. People assume bolts are good and an innocent person could have been severely injured or killed. They may have held a fall or two but one twist on a hanger and that bolt would have failed the next time it was loaded.
this is the first (highest)bolt as i removed it, sleeve intact.
the componants of the same bolt. Note the washer used because the bolt is too small for the hanger hole
three deadly bolts
Oh and the holds have been doctored as well. Theres a handrail flake by the second bolt that was giant to start with, but the top has been carefully chipped to make it perfectly flat. There are also scratch/scrape marks, curiously in a pair of bucket scoops at the top. Maybe a little grit was in them? The thing is one of the worst travesties, ethically and safety wise that i have seen in 40 years of climbing. Roger, i did you a favor. You soon would have had blood on your hands
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