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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 28, 2015 - 12:21pm PT
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Not ego, but history for me
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 28, 2015 - 12:32pm PT
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. . . . . in 35 yrs. and never said anything about those crags and climbs until I became aware of a recent guidebook effort that had the history, ethics and FA credit wrong. I made the personal choice to share my history and beta so the complete story could be told.
That my friends IS THE REASON TO RUSH TO PUBLISH!!
The Current way it goes is for the new crushers to re name the entire zone and all the formations and then expand the history at the same time as getting that history dead wrong.
we are having hail and thunder storms so I have tried to finish this despite loss of service sorry,
I was dead against and by my self out loud against the stuff closer in to Las vegas being posted and I died on that sword,
Real for Reals DMT, have you ever stopped in Winnemucca? Never mind Gerlach!
inhttp://www.mapquest.com/us/nv/winnemucca
&
Never mindhttp://www.mapquest.com/maps?city=Gerlach&state=NV
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 28, 2015 - 12:40pm PT
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Exactly
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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May 28, 2015 - 02:13pm PT
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One problem with keeping things hush hush is that others will discover them and they may not be so quiet.
I had heard of the granite wilds and someone once told me where they were but I never checked it out and forgot where they are exactly.
SO some new folks find out and say something.. the OG asks them not to publish.
A lot will depend on how well the OGs present their wishes. Being cool and polite about it and explaining a bit of the history can go a long way.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 28, 2015 - 08:13pm PT
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Back to some climbing content. I had to fly to Salt Lake City today and I swung by ER because my last photo trip really didn't work out well.
Here are some decent photos of the previously disclosed crags. Note in the spirit of non-disclosure, I have photos of three crags not previously disclosed so I'll hang on to those. (click on photos to make them larger)
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 28, 2015 - 08:35pm PT
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Many of you last heard from Betsy and I when I posted a photo of us stuck in the mud last Saturday. And there we sat until Monday - but luckily we got some climbing in.
We had arrived early Saturday morning with the Egyptian ridge hidden in clouds and rain, so we headed out towards a low angle pinnacle that I had seen from the plane during my recon flight a few days before. We got stuck in mud and eerily ended up in the center of a cow roundup in the middle of a field. A cowboy and his dog came riding over and we were feeling guilty that we were stuck in the middle of the jeep track, but he was only asking if we had extra beer. He ended up with wine, which I felt bad about because he surely thought I was a wus not having any beer.
We hiked up to the formation Saturday and spent the day with our dogs Bodie and Ande hunkered down under rocks in the rain watching water pour off the face. But what a face it is! We picked out some lines and went back to the mud-bound van for the night.
We got the van stuck again on Saturday evening and freed it after almost two hours of work, and then decided to just leave it in place until Monday when everything was hopefully dry and we could drive it out.
On Sunday we put up two probable new routes on the face. The first, High Desert Solitaire, starts on the left side of the face, a bolt protects some 5.9 moves up into a right leaning 5.6 crack.
The second climb, called Visions of Empire, is a face climb up the middle of the face, 5.7/5.8. Note it takes a full-length 70 meter rope to rap from the roof/belay.
We are absolutely biased, but they seem like nice routes.
Alex Kirkpatrick drove out Saturday afternoon to investigate our stuck van and to make sure we were OK. Thank you Alex. He ended up camping with us, and we all did the big hike back up to put up a third new climb called The Hourglass, 5.7 with maybe a couple of harder moves. From the top you can rappel down through a notch and end up at the bottom of the face/crack climbs, where Alex led the routes we put up the day earlier.
For getting almost hopelessly stuck in the mud, it turned out to be a fantastic climbing weekend!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 09:25pm PT
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Fantastic pictures Ney. Nice FA's.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 28, 2015 - 09:28pm PT
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We bought a plain white van. Betsy designed the interior and I did the exterior (graphics, heavy duty suspension, off road tires, lights etc.) Sportsmobile built out the interior and did a great job. We are having fun with it. 4WD just came out and they are just starting deliveries, but we couldn't wait. I actually have traction sleds which would have helped greatly last weekend but I thought I would only need them in the winter so they sat in the garage. They will now live permanently on the roof.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 29, 2015 - 12:03pm PT
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Been in an internet blackout for the past week as we drove through Canada in route to Alaska-roaming data charge avoidance.
Glad you enjoyed the crags Tad. Your, and others, enjoyment is precisely why i (at least) have shared location and limited beta here. Dingus and Thelen's secracy and drama queen freak show be damned.
Ney, good climbs and room for many more on a crag we've so far have been mum on location details.
Congrats again John. I liked the wedding pictures of yourself and your beautiful bride.
Well, that's all for now-tired of pecking left handed while on pain releiving prescription narcotics. Probably have to have surgery on my primary paw to regain something approaching normal usage.
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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May 29, 2015 - 09:02pm PT
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Funny how Dingpuss insists on sharing his squirrely little crags whilst posting endless selfies, has the audacity, even the temerity, I mind you, to attempt to deny someone sharing some real quality climbing content, claiming some arbitrary ethics clause, when some of his earlier posts, (albiet other threads) concerning retro-bolting and route ownership, refuse to accept "local ethics" at all. William Faulkner
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 30, 2015 - 11:44am PT
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This is a guide to all the secret climbing areas of Nevada. Hopefully I didn't leave one out so I know I've pissed off as many people as I can.
Actually I just flew to Salt Lake City and back and zig-zagged around to areas that caught my interest. If did catch a truly secret area just let me know and I'll delete that one. Otherwise, it seems like if someone wants to put in the effort, go for it.
This does show there is truly a lifetime of climbing in Nevada. For most of the these areas I'm only showing one photo of many. Also, note that the GW are within plain view of a paved road - they really are not that obscure. Some of these are definitely off the radar.
I'm still confused as to how one would know if it is an under-the-radar-kept-secret-for-decades-don't-dare-publish-on-the-web sort of place?
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 30, 2015 - 03:55pm PT
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Wow, that looks great! I wish I lived a bit closer.
Good to see Tad on the rocks! and congrats to all you locals.
Edit. Good to know a Sprinter can get in there, just in case I get a hankerin'. Here is mine in AZ.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 30, 2015 - 04:05pm PT
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NEY,
WHY DO YOU CONDONE THE REMOVAL OF PERSONS FAVORED ZONES??
It is not an easy or sought after thing that we here are sharing , I come from the Land of CLOSED TO CLIMBERS and if ever there was proof that having the history right the current Rock & ice has the Joe "I cut down a tree so what" Kinder story where they and he try to re-name Cascade crag, some other name and try to claim that destroying nature in a place where a tree to cliff climb already existed was the right thing to do and not that big a deal.
PLEASE POST UP EVERY ROCK OUT-CROP YOUR CAMRA CAN PRODUCE!this sits off the road in plain sight all winter.No One else, in the last ten years.
Although some one dismantled my anchor and used half of it in a death rig top rope :
using one strand of suspect webbing to one tree growing out of the cliff ,
to top rope a crack that eats gear and is all of 5.10. (NOT Pictured)this last picture is taken from about the same location of the shot that appears on the other site with a big(0) for number of routes
I have lead routes and am trying to link the moves on the face that is on the left side, in this picture (there is some distortion, for-shortening) .
The hanging arrett?
on the left sky-line? the pure, best lines need bolts
and some crusher of the finest kind
not J KINDER PLEASE.
and the routes right of the crack/hole also are pure gold for the east coast.
tradmanclimbs,
hey,
what no response?
you are welcome to the next first ascents.
hey,
Danna B?!
hey,
fear?!
hey
any one .
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 30, 2015 - 04:41pm PT
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Dee - Nice Panorama!
Gnome - I understand both positions but I don't have strong feelings either way myself. I actually kind of want to post and view climbing content on this thread and not argue.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 30, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
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That's what I wanted to do too!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2015 - 07:30am PT
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I agree with Ney. I'd rather keep the climbing up and leave the arguing elsewhere.
Like your sense of humor Ney, that far end of the E.R. area looks promising. Was that second picture out by Lovelock? If so, that's probably limestone, and a killer hike to get there. There's another area without such a killer hike and possibly longer routes out there, if someone wants to explore some possibly worthless rock with me some time.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 31, 2015 - 08:44am PT
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That second shot is west of Battle Mountain somewhere. I can probably zero in more if you really want to know, but I doubt you do...
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
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Full thread copy/paste as word doc's. Original thread as well.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2015 - 12:58pm PT
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I like that idea a lot. We're planning several trips with the kids this year, so hopefully by then we'll have the system dialed, such that Brenda can come along and get some climbing in. She expressed an interest in having me build a crack machine at home so she can train! If nothing else, maybe head up your way for a tour of some north country.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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J-Rig and Tad,
That would be great - I would enjoy meeting both of you. Maybe a dry weekend too where we could actually drive up the pass. I just bought an air compressor for the van. I've been told I wouldn't have had as much trouble had I deflated the tires.
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