Look Out! Danger!... Or... "Look Out! Weak Sauce."

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Da_Dweeb

climber
Oct 20, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
Richard put up a stupid route next to an even stupider to prove that it was stupid.

I think that's the long and short of it. Mission accomplished, sounds like the next step is chopping both.
rick d

climber
ol pueblo, az
Oct 20, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
gdavis-


you are not too bright are you?


the larry, you are 100% correct.


pelut esp. is no jeff batten, nor is his "defender" RH.


how-many-holes?
Da_Dweeb

climber
Oct 20, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
Yeah, where is the actual Pelut? I'd like to hear from him.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Oct 20, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
What's up with the Beyer bashing? That guy has put up more routes then everyone on this thread combined.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 21, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
What's up with the Beyer bashing? That guy has put up more routes then everyone on this thread combined.

You're right.


How many routes do you need to be abstained from guilt? Could I possibly buy one of these Indulgences from the local Bishop?
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Oct 21, 2012 - 06:03pm PT
His style has improved over the years. It's sad that the hardman Internet climbers hold onto grudges for a quarter century or more. Any of you bashers ever climb with the guy? I've done several new routes with him and don't think you could question the style we climbed in. Always ground up, minimal drilling, no power tools, etc. The other thing is he's still putting in new lines while the vast majority of the critics have retired to talking sh#t on the Internet. If you guy have a pair go repeat these lines and see for yourselves.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Oct 21, 2012 - 06:09pm PT
Talking sh|t is about all most of these guys are good for anymore. But I'll take a stab. I'm still feeling let down and dirtied from Weak Sauce. Tell me about your most highly-recommended Beyer route within 8 hours of Denver (four corners area, for example). Hopefully his style HAS improved. I'm mighty curious.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Oct 21, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
Hahaha now John Kelley is talking sh#t about sh#t talkers. And with all the sh#t talking you do (prezwoods) isn't that a little hypocritical?
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Oct 21, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
Check out the Kelley/Beyer on Mt. Moran in the Tetons. If it's too hard go for the South Buttress Drifter also on Moran. Both are unrepeated.

Prezwoods, aka Kelsey Gay, is a known retro bolter. He's done a lot of harm to the local climbing scene here. So many new bolts that the Chugach State Park proposed a fixed anchor ban last year. He claims the two are unconnected but that's bs.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Oct 21, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
"Never Mentioned?" What does that even mean? Please tell me what grandiose responsibility I had that I didn't rise to. I believe we've been all around this bush before in other contexts. Any particular reason you feel it needs further discussion in yet another context?

I believe you did Hole World shortly before I did WoC, and I didn't know about it. What month/year?

What drilling are you talking about, specifically?

Always been totally straightforward, with nothing to hide, as you know.

Topos, Kelley?
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Oct 21, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
Kelley, I'm not a mountaineer, and both routes you just mentioned seem to not be strictly big walls. What was at issue was Beyer's big wall/aid climbing tactics. Comparing mountaineering style is apples/oranges. What strictly big wall/aid climbs could you refer to?
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Oct 21, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
Topos are in the 2001 AAJ
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Oct 21, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
Check out Whirl of Hate (5.10 A4) also on Moran
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Oct 21, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
I wouldn't call any of the three " mountaineering" routes. There're just rock climbs.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Oct 21, 2012 - 07:37pm PT
From Wikipedia....

No trails to Mount Moran have been maintained for over twenty years, and any approach overland requires a great deal of bushwhacking through vegetation, deadfalls and bogs along the perimeter of Leigh Lake. Instead, most climbers choose to canoe from String Lake, across Leigh Lake and then pick their way to their respective route; but even this may require some overland route finding. As a result, most climbs on Mount Moran tend to take several days even when the technical portion of the climb is comparatively brief.

Accurate?

Sounds like the bushwhack-to-climb-ratio is the "too hard" part of these routes. Again, anything new from Beyer in the four-corners area?

Edit: Also, it looks like the routes you mention all range from 1998 to 2001. Anything recent?
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Oct 21, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
The approach to the South Buttress is easy. I mean very easy. Paddle a canoe across Leigh Lake and follow the unmaintained but good trail up the valley. Less then an hour of walking. Almost no bush wacking. The Tetons are awesome. They don't suffer from the bullshit that the valley does.

I'll ask him what he thinks are his best more recent aid routes in the four corners area are. I think most of his newer lines are free routes though.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Oct 21, 2012 - 08:00pm PT
Thanks for the info! I'll look into this more. The Tetons are further than I'd like, and with my job it's hard to get away just for recon. But I'm intrigued! Thanks again.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 22, 2012 - 12:11am PT
Ask Beyer about Martyr's Brigade, & the random & wanton chopping, then get back to me. F*#k that guy.
Ego-centric as#@&%e.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Oct 22, 2012 - 01:17am PT
from half a dozen posts ago he says: "I don't give a rodent's testicle about what you did on the Titan itself.... this is an interesting idea. while madbolter may not care what happens to the rock as long as it is honestly reported, i can't agree. the rock is a shared resource and what is done to the rock by another climber is something i care about. even if it is unreported and i stumble upon it.

Too much to say to fit in even one of MY posts, and that's saying something! The whole idea of a "shared resource" and what that implies is a vast topic.

But, understandably, my nuances of meaning could not be captured in my "rodent's testicle" line. In a nutshell, people have far too much to say about style (what is done "to" the rock) and far too little to say about climber-to-climber relations. If you look at most "debate" threads on the Taco, you see the same thing again and again: treating PEOPLE with utter disrespect, while fuming about respecting the ROCK.

With RARE exception (Weak Sauce) being one of them, climbers care about CLIMBING, and that means (at minimum) trying to conform oneself to what the rock presents. So, to me, what the FA team did on Weak Sauce matters FAR more in the sense of the UTTER disconnect between what Pelut claimed and anything resembling "climbing!" The "what" of what Pelut did matters most to me in terms of what it means for integrity and climbing.

We can dicker 'till the cows come home about relatively fine points of style, and we can even claim that these discussions are "ethical" discussions. But those discussions shrink in significance alongside a "route" that was not even CLIMBING.

That is the sense in which I mean that I don't give a rodent's testicle about "what" was done "to" the rock. To me, it's not "nothing!" But it is almost nothing compared to what was done to integrity and to what climbing means. If THIS is "climbing," then what almost all of us have been striving to do better and better at, spanning decades, is a complete hoax.


for someone who claims that he doesn't care about another climbers acts, only their honesty, madbolter sure makes a lot of judgments about how close together and how heavy handed pelut's placements are.

See above. These things are significant primarily insofar as they speak to CLIMBING.

hmm, i must be missing the part where he is not caring about what is done to the rock by another climber. so while he might claim that he's not interested in the role of high priest of "aid style", his words belie a different reality.

We are ALL trying to be "high priests" of "style." Read what's posted on the Taco that counts for "ethics." What a joke!

in case he's open to his own ambitions a piece of unsolicited advice: if you want to be the high priest of "aid style", and publicly call out another climber with worldwide public ridicule, that's fine.

Wow, did you ever miss the point. Have we been on the same thread? I have as much right as anybody here to "call out" another climber after what I observed. And what I've done here is not "ridicule." Maybe that's what some here have done. But I've tried to keep things to a factual level. In response, I've been chided, derided myself, and even called a liar as attempted "defense" of this non-climb. Talk about shooting the messenger.

if you've earned your position as high priest you'll probably even be taken seriously.

Is this something like earning the "right" to do a new route on El Cap? BS! Facts are facts. I reported facts. I don't lie about facts. They are what they are. If you see ANY "gray areas" about this non-route's hype, tactics, and misinformation from the FA team, please step up and make them clear. Otherwise, I think that ANY reasonable person is going to decry this non-climb without any help from ANY "high priest." Where you got the idea that I was going for "high priest" is totally beyond me.


if the only justification for your route is that "i'm a ground up fundamentalist so in order to "discover" whether the first climb was a botch job or not, i had to to ground-up a similar line with tons of new holes", that's also, arguably, maybe, admirable. but in case you really do care about the style aspect of your high priest role, you better be willing to turn around and erase it (or at minimum have a plan to, once people have had a chance to see the evidence).

Too much to say here than can reasonable fit!

Nutshell: If you look at the FA team squirming as it is, just imagine it after a "rap inspection." Give me a break!

And why is it "on me" to erase it or have a plan to? When did that become my special responsibility?

You see, the whole problem with climbing "style" is that the climbing community has NEVER gotten clear about how to "self-police" or if it even should. And if it should, then WHO gets to be "chief of police," and who gets selected to employ the "force?" Ever since Robbins tried it, it's been clear that even the "holy" aren't holy enough to be trusted! And the wide disparity in views about "style" should be sufficient to keep us basically humble when it comes to employing force!

There are MANY here that even decry the use of ANY sort of driven gear (heads, pitons, etc.) in aid climbing. So, pick the "purest" climb you want at the Fishers or on El Cap for that matter, and I guarantee you that there are MANY that believe it was done in VERY poor style.

Wow... so FAR from thinking of myself as "high priest," I have the opposite perspective. I know a non-climb when I see one, because what I've just seen is at the absolute end of the spectrum. The only next step is literally to lean a giant wooden ladder against the Titan and call it a "climb!" Do ANY of us need to be a "high priest" to "call that out?"

The problem is that of "force!" I don't remember who uttered this famous quote, but it is timelessly true: "We have every right to speak, but no whatsoever to compel."

So, I don't care if the route is chopped now or not. We all make our individual decisions about what we think is right. Those of us that DO, instead of just TALK, portray our views on the rock. If somebody is SO sure that their view is right that they are prepared to chop a route, this would probably be the most likely candidate in history to gain a consensus. More power to you. But, far from thinking of myself as some sort of "high priest," I wouldn't make that decision. I was just trying to get up in the best possible style, given the pathetic "line" the FA team chose, and see and accurately report what was really done there.

in the age of the interwebz, if you want to hold others to your religion, and stay a high priest, you have to be willing to bear the cross of your own shortcomings.

As do we all, since we ALL have 'em!

and if a person isn't able to see the hypocrisy, given the history of dramz we're all aware of thanks to said interwebz, methinks they may have stared into the abyss a trifle too long.

You had me until this point. You had me thinking that your was about the most REASONED argument I'd seen on the Taco for a long time. But then you punted and jumped on the "history of drama" bandwagon. And that's just pathetic. Let's stay focused on FACTS, shall we? Leave the spun "interpretations" out of it.

so while the rock may not care what a human's actions are, a lot of people do. and to me it's a lot like art. the only people who care what a piece of art is supposed to be or what the "narrative" is, are those who are too attached to their own temporary relevance in a certain area of "expertise". at the end of the day the only thing that really matters is what is on the wall.

Well, that just spun out of control after you, well, lost control of it. What are you saying here?

If it's a lot like art, should we care or not? You seem to say that the only people that do care are those that have gotten caught up in a form of "evaluation" that isn't relevant or is missing the point or some such thing. But if "evaluation" about such things as "expertise" and "style" are not relevant, then there's nothing to care about. But, you DO care about "what is on the wall," whatever that means. HOW do you care about "what is on the wall" without discussion of "narrative" or some such thing? "What is on the wall" is not just "there!" There's a STORY behind it... a HUMAN story, and that's the only reason it matters.

Are we all supposed to be "environmentalists" in the strictest sense? Is that what you mean? Careful with a step onto that slope!

If so, then ALL aid climbing with driven gear must STOP! But that lets a LOT of the self-proclaimed high priests on the Taco off the bus! (Not too hard to name them. That's for sure!) And that means that MOST (by FAR) of the "respectable" big wall climbs (past and present) are really indefensible farces!

Do you think that you "get" what is on the wall without ANY discussion of "narrative?" WHAT about "what is on the wall" really matters? WHY does it?

What the FA team did "on" (better would have been to say "to") the Titan is insignificant compared to their perspective of CLIMBING, which is what I care about. And that is always worth talking about, as we can (hopefully) all learn from each other perspectives in (basically) reasonable and honest discourse.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Oct 22, 2012 - 01:59am PT
just wondering why you drew a topo showing you're route going to the top without joining another route for the last five pitches. I'd think an Honest person would mention that in their topo.

You drilled a belay anchor in the middle of an A1 pitch of mine, you're 14th belay.

That's "your," since you are obviously in nit-picky mode now.

Wow, so ignorance of your recently-done route becomes an honesty issue on my part? Again, you didn't do it long before I did WoC, and I was unaware of it. My original topo reflects my unawareness, and my original topo DID note that the top two pitches were a ladder I didn't drill (you can BET I wasn't taking "credit" for THAT in the "climate" of that time!).

Unlike you, I was never a bowed-down-to-be-worshiped demi-god of the Valley. Decades of willful and intentional slander pretty much kept that from happening! (Thank God! LOL!) So you'll excuse me if I was not privy to everything taking place there in anything close to real time.

Hmm... fill me in a bit here, would you? If Mark and/or I had done multiple pitches of full-on drilling and named our route "Hole World," would WE have gotten kudos for it as you did? Just curious. Could YOU do any wrong in that era? Oh, and there was Shipley's "machine headwall." Yeah, guess those were "routes worth drilling for."

But, so as to not be accused of "dodging" (here's the "drama" again, and, note, the multi-decade critics are the ones that just can't leave the bone alone), I'll answer your specific question. My 14th anchor was at the end of a long pitch, so I ended the pitch where it made the most sense to me under the Pinnacle of Hammerdom. It wasn't A1 at that point of the pitch, as I remember, but, honestly, it's been too many years now for me to remember that anchor in ANY detail. I do remember that I was running the rope out during the whole route, as much as possible.

If those two bolts (that have no effect on the rating) get your panties in a bunch after all these years (nay, decades), I'd suggest getting over it. I didn't do you nor the rock any harm.

I was never your enemy. Why have you been mine over the decades? Why can't you let it go?

But, if you want to nit-pick, tell us your best, your PUREST, your most perfect route... the one that's still in pristine condition, so I can go do it and nit-pick comparably.

The big mistake some, like you, are making on this particular thread is floating the misguided claim that ONLY the "perfect" can "judge." So, the claim is: How dare Jensen set himself up as "judge," when he has been far from "perfect" himself?

What a joke. I've never claimed "perfection!" But any CLIMBER should be able to see that THIS was a non-climb, and that's what I reported. There's NO "nit-picking" to report that this thing was far, far beyond the pale... FAR beyond anything any of us have seen before.

What's always galled me are the "high priests" of "holiness" that claim the right to nit-pick every other route not done by them or their cronies, when THEY are not holy themselves.

If you can find ANY correlation between decades of THAT and what this thread has been about, then, there's nothing more to talk about.

*

Cross-post: Now Beyer is "bad-ass?" Wow... have I been warped into some alternate universe? Intifada was not even hard (and we repeated it very shortly after the FA, using exactly comparable gear), and he didn't honestly report what went on there. AND he trenched when it wasn't even remotely necessary to trench... even if you are (now) calling trenching all good BITD. WAS that all good BITD? Can we get clear even about that?

So, let's see.... we now have the current desert-rock "masters" calling Beyer a "bad-ass," and Crusher says that Pelut's bashing and bashing on the rock (removing kilograms) to OVER-drive a pecker that was bomber 40 hits ago... it's all good. No wonder Pelut is confused! I sure am! Guess I'm just nit-picking.

See my point from my previous post? We're ALL awash in inconsistency... such is the nature of aid climbing. Let's quit ripping at each other!

But Weak Sauce was not even a CLIMB, by any measure, and there's no inconsistency in saying that. My whole "report" on this thread. If THIS thing can't come under fire from ANYBODY in the climbing community (high priest status or not), then ALL talk of "acceptable" style is groundless.
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