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stefano607518
Trad climber
italy/austria/switzerland
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Jan 23, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
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anyhow
seems David Lama freed the compressor yesterday...see planetmountain.com
with or without bolts...
by real Fair means...FREE CLIMBING the route
Phil what do you think?
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Jan 23, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
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The Compressor Route freed!
Cerro Torre free.
AWESOME!! Just awesome.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 23, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
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Is there any more definite source as to what Lama did and didn't do? Or is all embargoed, while it's filtered through lawyers, sponsors, and marketed to make the most dollars?
Jason and Hayden are said to have removed 102 bolts from the Maestri route, out of 400 or more. (Largely on the headwall?) Many that were clearly unnecessary, with 1970 let alone modern gear. However, some that were necessary, particularly on the headwall, where Maestri seems to have chosen a line that is fairly blank. So if they removed 102 bolts, mostly on the headwall, how did Lama free the compressor route? Did he replace the bolts, or?
The bolts being confiscated by the police suggests that there may be a legal element to what happened. Is there? What does Argentinian law say about this sort of thing? We can discuss it all we like - not that seems likely to lead to any definite conclusion - but if there are applicable laws, it would be useful to know.
If Hayden and Jason removed 102 bolts, it either took a lot of time and effort, or they came out easily. Given that all we've heard so far is that theirs was a fast ascent, it suggests the latter. Is it possible that the Maestri bolts were coming to the end of their safe lifetime, in a rather severe environment? They sure weren't placed or maintained by the ASCA!
Regardless of the fate of the Maestri bolt ladders, would it be reasonable for there to be a single well-chosen rappel route down that side of the mountain, with fixed anchors - bolts? So as to limit proliferation of anchors and junk?
Looking on the bright side, this debate has attracted many new posters, often from outside North America, and given us something climbing-related to endlessly discuss at an otherwise quiet time of year for TRs and such.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jan 23, 2012 - 04:25pm PT
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Did someone chop the compressor route or something????
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nature
climber
Aridzona for now Denver.... here I come...
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Jan 23, 2012 - 04:28pm PT
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naw... I think all the hubbub is because someone replaced the chopped bolt on Double Cross.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Jan 23, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
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sono democratico, chi vuole traduce con google (come faccio io qua del resto), chi non vuole non legge
Foradaiball-I tried the google translator. See, it just doesn't work. I wish I spoke Italian but 3 languages is probably my max. I agree that gives me limitations.
It's a shame you putting all your emotional thoughts to this forum in a language very few will ever read and comprehend. When you run the computer translator, it just comes out all gooblygock!
Can you find a friend nearby who can translate your thoughts and insults into English? Not because I or anybody else thinks English is very cool but so we can UNDERSTAND what you have to say.
Arne
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 23, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
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WTF!?!
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Jan 23, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
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You got me there.
Cheers to you and take care.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Jan 23, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
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I hope you know that this will go down on your permanent record...
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Kimbo
Sport climber
seattle
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Jan 23, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
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Reports also suggest that when Kennedy and Kruk got back to camp they were confronted by a group of local climbers demanding an explanation for their actions. During this time the police arrived and confiscated the chopped bolts and took them to the police station to take a statement.
i wonder if kruk pooped his pants again?
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Steve Barratt
Gym climber
Glasgow, UK
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Jan 23, 2012 - 05:08pm PT
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2 lessons from this:
1) In the mountains - move fast and efficiently, carry less, avoid exposure to objective hazards and you may also have enough time left to remove existing climbs on the descent!
2)The vole has no legs
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Jan 23, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
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Long live the vole!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 23, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
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Cliff Phillips said that the bolts came out easily (and this was 4 decades ago) and that they would hammer them back in with a bit of cardboard or a match.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Jan 23, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
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This is my last word on the topic...voles do have legs.
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Rockymaster
climber
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Jan 23, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
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This statement has recently been updated with the so-called Statement of Ethics on the mountain the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) announced on 11 December on the occasion of International Mountain Day. In Article 1 (individual responsibility) reflects: "... Place anchors fixed on new or old ways can not be automatically assumed to be acceptable. "Article 4 (foreign countries): "... We must respect local ethics and style of climbing and fixed anchors drill or put in places where there is a traditional ethics against him or where there is no established ethical. "Article 8 (style): "... We should always try to leave no trace on the wall and the mountain.
I live in Chalten, I feel ashamed for letting this guys, David Lama in 2010 and the rest to do what they want in an area WE live and WE love and look after as good as we can...
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YoungGun
climber
North
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Jan 23, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
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From the mouth of the Lama:
I can't believe it… For more than three years I was driven by the idea of freeclimbing the Compressor route on Cerro Torre and now this dream has become true!
My partner Peter Ortner and I started on January 19th from El Chalten and hiked in to Nipo Nino, our first camp. The next morning we climbed up to the Col de la Paciencia, rested there for a few hours and then started our attempt at around 1pm.
We climbed to the start of the Bolt Traverse, but instead of turning right, we went straight up on the technically difficult arete, a few meters left of the Salvaterra crack. I took a couple of falls, until I figured out the right sequence and then was able to send the pitch on my second try from the belay. A few pitches higher we reached the Iced Towers, where we picked a small ledge into an icefield to bivi.
Early the next morning we climbed to the start of the headwall. The fact that Hayden and Jason had chopped Maestri’s bolts a couple of days ago made my endeavour even more challenging, especially mentally as the protection was poor and I had to do long run outs. Climbing on hollow and loose flakes we followed the original Compressor route for three pitches. About 20 meters below the compressor we traversed to the right and then reached a system of cracks and corners that lead us to the summit. Climbing the route in alpine style took us 24 hours from the Col.
To me this first free ascent of the south east ridge of Cerro Torre is the end to the probably greatest adventure I experienced in my life so far. I’m especially proud having it done without adding any bolts. I learned a lot during the past years and climbing in this amazing mountain range has simply been great. Realizing dreams – it couldn’t be any better!
WTF? Via Rock and Ice on Facebook.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Jan 23, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
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you got to hand it to lama, after all the crap he recieved on the intardnet the last time he was there he persevered and showed us how its done. bravo.
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Kimbo
Sport climber
seattle
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Jan 23, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
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@ rockymaster:
I live in Chalten, I feel ashamed for letting this guys, David Lama in 2010 and the rest to do what they want in an area WE live and WE love and look after as good as we can...
thanks for posting, and it'd be nice to hear more opinions from the locals who actually reside there.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jan 23, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
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So.... was the establishing ethic from 50 years ago to drag a machine up the face and have a bolting party??
Props to Lama. What a week!
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Sam R
climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jan 23, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
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WTF? Did someone chop off a vole's legs??
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