Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
richross
Trad climber
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
|
Being hatched at the Grand Canyon,1975.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2009 - 02:40pm PT
|
|
|
BlackGeorge
Social climber
Utah
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2009 - 06:08pm PT
|
Hey, Where is that??
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2009 - 08:24pm PT
|
Photos I posted above are from Granite Mountain near Prescott.
Here's some pics of an ascent of Bill Williams Spire near Williams from when we climbed it 15 years ago. Posted in the BWS thread as well.
The spire from the approach... we climbed the side facing the camera.
Approximate line we climbed... I thought it was sorta stiff for only 5.9, but then it was thin hands, so I was disadvantaged. :-)
My buddy Tim on the first pitch of what we climbed...
Tim's girlfriend (wife now), Karen coming up the second belay.
Karen rapping off the north face.
My guess at the line of the North Face route.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2009 - 11:52am PT
|
I don't recall that episode Pablo?!? Do tell...
|
|
fluffy
Trad climber
boulder
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
|
sword of damocles
i remember that one now
was originally rated 11c
11a is more accurate
not sure how much of an ow it is, the biggest piece i placed was a 4 camalot
thanks for the trip down memory lane
|
|
BlackGeorge
Social climber
Utah
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
|
How ever can a 20 foot boulder be rated V13??
Just a hunk of junk sitting on the ground.
Pate is not to be trusted and should stop spraying.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 10:01pm PT
|
Coke Bottle Chimney?
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
|
Top pics were Karl's Korner (5.9)
Other (chimney) pics were Guillotine Flake (5.7) over on the right side just past Grody Coyote area. Did that a couple weekends ago just to knock it off. Last route I had left to do up there easier than 9+. Was sort of interesting in a chimneyish sort of a way. Personally, I think a true 5.7 leader would see God on that route, but that's the Mountain. :-)
I always thought Coke Bottle was a really good route too. Gotta love those 50 foot runouts if you don't have a #23 Friend.
|
|
bob
climber
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 10:04am PT
|
Pate, do you mean the Hump Crack? 5.10 fist over bulge to ow. Its one of those G. Mountain more bang for your buck sort of deals. Short, but full of the goods. Like the last bit of Cinnamon Girl. Inconspicuous little corner after the perfect handcrack at the top of Sorcerer/Kingpin. Step (way big) left and start crankin. I did it yesterday for the first time in a long while. PUMPER especially greasing in the sun. The Mountain has lots of good little variants like those two. Hard fuggers that are no longer than 30 feet.
Ahh the Mountain.
Bob J.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 10:16am PT
|
"Its one of those G. Mountain more bang for your buck sort of deals."
Ha ha. Story of my life at the Mountain. :-)
"The Mountain has lots of good little variants like those two. Hard fuggers that are no longer than 30 feet."
We were just noticing Camptown Races the other day. Knew it was there, and have looked out there before, but kinda put two and two together. Looked nice. You done that one Bob?
You can see Webster's (?) pin sticking out of the wall on the Thin Ice there as well... yikes.
"Ahh the Mountain."
You said it brother.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 10:59am PT
|
What sort of shape is Cinnamon Girl in these days? Top of my to do list still!
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
|
Been looking at knocking that one off myself. Not sure whether the bolts got replaced or not... anyone know?
|
|
bc
climber
Prescott, AZ
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
|
I seriously doubt the bolts on Cinnamon Girl have been replaced. There hasn't been a lot of bolt replacing going on up there that I know of. I was thinking I'd try to get up there to fix up a few routes this season and CG was on the list. What other routes besides this would you consider next on any list of routes to be rebolted?
|
|
bob
climber
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 02:59pm PT
|
Cinnamon Girl has bad bolts but c'mon folks your gonna die anyways. Just don't fall on that thing. Its easy 9. The top crack is not 10. Harder, but then again, its 10.
Most of the routes on the right side either have new bolts, or were put up recent enough to have good enough bolts.
A big justice would be Cinnamon Girl I guess for the head, also the last pitch of Tom Thumb would be service for sure. Don't know about Ed W's route Thin Ice. Not Thin Slice, that's got new bolts. Thin Ice I believe only had pins and only has one BAD one now.
Pate, from the sounds of it I think maybe you are thinking of the top pitch of Granite Jungle. Its rad OW and pretty burly if done wrong. Not wrong, just done a certain way. That corner system is one giant one over from the coke Bottle corner. Delphinia Lightening Ass, Dream Weaver start there as well. What a great pitch that Granite Jungle. 9+++++++++ or 5.8.
The Girdle has been all rebolted............Rusty B. rap anchor after the traverse on Once in a Blue Moon to get down to the ledge below the 9 face pitch of Kingpin, but if you want to free it in the rating range ya gotta down climb that pitch of Kingpin to the ledge then head over to Candyland. My bud and I did it that way. Boy the seconder has quite a lead on their hands. The high route goes for sure, but @ 11. It will go. It will go. Go Go.
Lotta nice bolts on those old routes now. Not all, but quite a few. Sheet, Dream Weaver has a new bolt on the last pitch. Still have to crux out with barely any gear before you get to it, but........I think its a bit lower than it used to be, but heads up!
No more pins on Whiteout. Just two bolts at the beginning. Those went in along time ago. Way changed the nature of those first moves. Once in a Blue Moon sprouted a bolt on the 10 traverse pitch. Sometimes I clip it, sometimes I don't. Depends on the day.
Anything else?
bob j. on lunch.
ps. Bill I'd like to do some of that stuff with ya if you have time.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
|
I'd contribute time, effort and hardware to swap out some of the remaining old junk if you need some help.
Would be nice to meet you guys as well, put names to faces.
Granite Jungle offwidth...shudder....
|
|
fluffy
Trad climber
chainsaw city
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
|
"I want to know how a line like Sword Of Damocles can be rated anywhere near 5.11. it's a 35 foot climb in a choss-heap canyon that is best top-roped. rusty baillie ratings are not to be trusted, or sprayed about."
you sound angry
angry and confused
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 04:03pm PT
|
Pate - don't think Dreamweaver is offwidth.
Second pitch is a hand crack (starts out 4" and gets smaller), then third is dihedral with a bolt as I recall.
I think Bob was talking about the last pitch on Granite Jungle.
About 6"-9" wide pitch black maw of torture.
It's over there near Cheiu Hoi (in fact, the OW is just left of the last pitch of CH).
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
|
Right here dude...
It looks so innocent.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!