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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Jun 10, 2009 - 06:00pm PT
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Tork -
Anyway you can post those photos in another format? Not showing up on my end.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 10, 2009 - 07:37pm PT
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Not sure how????
Are they showing up for anyone else?
Jeff
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jun 10, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
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I can see 'em. Just can't figure out where they are, except for the 1st one on Chiquito.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jun 10, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
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I can see!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 10, 2009 - 09:41pm PT
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Slowona Dome
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Jun 11, 2009 - 02:19am PT
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Just can't figure out where they are....
Here's a few that you CAN figure out Nater.....Shuteye photo tease time! ;)
Whimpering through the FA of 'Five Amigos' (.10c/d)
Tiki-Ger on the sharp end while jamming up 'Fill In The Blank'
The "Lost" Boys: Doct R, Nate D, Miner, Mooch and Tiki-Ger
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 11, 2009 - 09:19am PT
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mooch, now I can't see your pic????
Jeff
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 11, 2009 - 11:08am PT
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Grahm, where is See you in heaven? What's it rated? Pictures?
Jeff
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jun 11, 2009 - 01:06pm PT
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Tork, I like the chiquito pic, really shows the size of the dome, like a fly on the wall.
See You In Heaven 5.10a (two cruxes, one is the thin start, the second is on the small roof). If you're facing 557s dome, it is on the far right side of the cliff near the end. The best way to get to it though is to rap in from the other side, it'll save you 20 minutes of hiking (but there are also many good routes on 557s you'll pass by if you do the hike... depends upon what your objective is). You rap the route to its right (climber's right) to a midway station that Grahm just put in. That route is also 5.10 and that section of the cliff is amazing. The impressive face between the top of the route and the Aerie is Hobbit Dome (lowest formation of the three clusters).
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 11, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
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Ya Tom(?), that side of Chiquito is awesome. Took a couple of friends from Tasmania (Nick and Heather) out there last weekend, they loved it. The pic is of Nick on the first pitch of a route I started last fall. Just finished the pitch,60ms, a few weeks ago, two more long pitches to go.
As far as 557's, the two long 10+s are my favorite pitches at Shuteye. So See You in Heaven and Grahm"s newest are way downhill from those?
Is the arrow pointing to Hobbit Dome in the pic?
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jun 11, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
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Yes, your arrow is actually pointing exactly to the notch where you climb up to the top and then down to the rap anchors for the south face routes (on Hobbit). All the routes are on the other side, which is about 140' tall.
You'll walk from the Aerie over across the white sandy pebble/mini-scree in the picture to that notch. You'll do a mantle move between a sharp edged boulder and the Hobbit (you can stem it), then traverse left across a tiny ledge. That'll get you to the top. There are 4 really good 5.8 routes with bolts/pro mix and a fun .11b on the cap stone that you can TR if you want, or lead (6 bolts). Enjoy!
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kev
climber
CA
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Jun 12, 2009 - 03:57pm PT
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A few photos of John and Sue on the FA of Guns of Brixton
near Gray Eagle.
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Jun 12, 2009 - 04:45pm PT
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Tasters Choice!!
Looks good Kev, what's it go at?
That upper area looks sweet!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 12, 2009 - 05:02pm PT
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doh, Matt, some bad news for my So Yo/Sierra visit. Was thinking over 4th of July when you was around, but no can do that weekend now.
Have to go East Side due to being outvoted. Sudern stuff will have to be a later weekend. Anyone need a belay monkey on a particular trip? Tiki-ger, whaddayathink?
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kev
climber
CA
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Jun 12, 2009 - 05:42pm PT
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Um tentatively .10bish
kev
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Jun 12, 2009 - 07:39pm PT
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Mungie, We'll be meeting up around the 4th of July.....Hopefully all 5 Amigos(in da photo)will be around.....you are more than welcomed to join. Mooch is with Brutus now for the Spire.
My email did get hacked into awhile ago....thanks for bringing it to my attention. I can't use that account no more.
Cool Kev! We need some consensus at our area as well.
SSCA is to have an event in the area soon.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 12, 2009 - 07:56pm PT
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oh sh#t, that sucks then. I can't make that weekend on the 4th of July. :(
ok, I'll touch base with you guys as we get into July.
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kev
climber
CA
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Jun 23, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
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So I did Thief in the Night on friday afternoon. Super fun but I have a question - why traverse left under the roof I continued along the natural line. Also in case anyone is looking for consensus it felt like honest 5.8. Super fun!
kev
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jun 23, 2009 - 03:13pm PT
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Did the natural line stay natural?
By the way, cool pics earlier, kev. Assuming that trad line is truly virgin, isn't it such a gift that they are still out there for the taking?
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kev
climber
CA
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Jun 23, 2009 - 04:06pm PT
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Yeah that's what confused me. The natural line continues with plenty of pro. It's a tiny bit dirty but not a munge fest. It ends at a horizontal crack (which takes gear) between the two bolted anchors. If it hasn't been done, guess it should be called the "The Direct Kev Variation." It's pretty mellow, can't be harder than 5.6 but does follow the natural line.
Really no need for both bolted anchors 20 ft apart with a bomber horizontal crack between them. The lower anchor raps with a 70 no problem and need chains. I left a sling and rapped the sling.
There's a bunch of good locking stuff in that area btw.
kev
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