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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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I had some of those bunk SMC nuts, they were gud 'leavers'.
Fear not, I didn't pay for 'em.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 26, 2015 - 04:30pm PT
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Here is your Holiday Mystery Nut Challenge.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Nov 26, 2015 - 10:39pm PT
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Using that coin for reference, one would think that the pro you're presenting is from the 19th century. I'll bet that at least half the readers under 30 (if there are more than 1) don't know if that's a dime or a quarter.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Nov 27, 2015 - 12:37am PT
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Here is your Holiday Mystery Nut Challenge. So we can suspect that Master Grossman knows what these little wonders are… May we have a clue…? Does the “T” stand for “Tested”…? As I am not very proud not to have any idea of what these single wire nuts could be, I have post a photograph of the Master for the HB New Curve nuts. Unfortunately these HB nuts were never marketed...
Mirror, my beautiful mirror, am I still the “Maestro”…?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 28, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
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I actually don't know the source of these nuts but I suspect that they are Black Diamond by the "T" for tested and that the heads appear to be the same material that Steel Nuts are made from. Prototypes by the lack of a stamp which were likely limited by the inability to get sufficient solder penetration into such a relatively large cable cross section. An interesting design to say the least with the offset tapering on the head shapes.
No worries Maestro, your lofty status is never in doubt.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Steve,
I am not sure if Chouinard or BD made the steel nut set you show. Chouinard and BD soldered both wires into the nut. If this was an early Chouinard prototype the nut material would have been brass. I believe the steel nut set you show is from a unknown manufacturer that copied the BD 1995 set since the nuts appear to be offset as well.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 20, 2017 - 02:12pm PT
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Bump for no quarter...
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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May 20, 2017 - 07:02pm PT
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For the price, weight and size how can you go wrong with a ton of small to medium stoppers? Ten stoppers fit in the rack where one cam would. Lotsa stoppers means never run out of gear on a long pitch. And burried in an invagination of a pinscar they are so bomber! I sometimes hammer them in a little with the nuttool to prevent zipper. Sometimes I even place a cam then bury it under a tight stopper to prevent walk. My first rack was stoppers, hexes and two old doublestem bd cams. Even today sometimes I lead on all stoppers to go fast and light and just for kicks. No mucky muck! Solid as the rock.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 24, 2017 - 09:28pm PT
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Here are some shots of a nut that I recently got from Paul Sibley that was given to him by Royal Robbins. I suspect that it is a prototype for something that Royal was planning on selling but didn't to my knowledge. Anyone recognize this design?
This design uses a machine fused cable end rather than a swaged end like Forrest used which makes it unusual. The shape is similar to the largest early Clog wired wedge which may have been what Royal was keying off of and trying to lighten it a bit with the bottom cavity.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 25, 2017 - 09:49am PT
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Another Nutstory bump...
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Steve, I have just discovered your posts. I well believe that I am able to tell you what this mystery nut is…
A long time ago, the former owner of CMI (Colorado Mountain Industries), Ethan Becker, sent me some nuts, chocks, and devices. Among them, there was two amazing prototypes that CMI designed for Royal Robbins. The name of these two nuts is… Wallnut. They use the same high strength stainless steel ball of the Blue-Bells, the Kirk's Kamms and, later, the RoKJoX. An approximate date for your nut would be 1976.
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Vlad Pricker
Mountain climber
The cliffs of insanitty
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Of course that is a dime, haven't seen one of those in a longggg time.
Forrest made some nuts too.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I have 8 or 10 small to medium sized nuts with me when I do multi pitch trad but only use them as a second option in the relatively rare instances where they work better than cams.
Nuts are light and they are bomber when properly placed but I think that they slow you down a bit.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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I love my nuts! Protecting the crux of Jello's 10a "Tow Away Zone" at COR with a single, bomber stopper:
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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In the smaller sizes they are much more truck than micro cams. I caught a 30 footer last weekend on a #4 soldered BD and a little brassie.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Roushski, I did not know that there were so many different sizes. Thank you very much for posting such a photograph of this incredible set!
It is also most interesting to see "CMI" stamped on them.
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Gilroy
Social climber
Bolderado
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With the relatively small range of adjustment and their ability to fit in places that defy inspection, microcams are often a bit dubious pro. Small stoppers weigh nothing compared to cams of the same size and I never leave them behind. BITD RP's caught some burly falls in the alligator iron rock at Hueco Tanks.
I believe! And don't get me started on tricams!
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